There is another only other thing I would like to mention.  The lock nuts on the engine and transmission mounts threads just prevent movement.  The lower nuts on the engine mounts are turned to raise and lower the engine.  The upper bolt head on the transmission mounts are used to raise and lower the transmission.  Every movement you make to the engine will affect the transmission and vice-versa.  The engine mounts tend to need far more movement than the trans mounts.  The transmission mount adjustments are normally used more for the natural alignment, and the engine mount adjustments are used more for the angular alignment.  Try to adjust the engine mounts and the trans mounts evenly in pairs.   Don't adjust just one mount unless absolutely necessary. 

marinetex?

UPDATE: A friend of mine advised I give it the "italian tune-up" (run real hard for awhile) before swapping out more parts. So, went slalom skiing this morning and alarm/code still present at startup but, after 6 runs, 34mph, 5000 RPM, it cleared. No more alarms and no fault codes in the submenu. I'm flummoxed because the manual says "3 warm-up and cool down cycles" to clear the code, which I've done in excess. I'm going to get a new cap/rotor regardless and have on hand in event it comes back. But, hope this helps someone! 

Thank you both! Chuck--I just realized you're in Victoria. Basically a stone's throw from me in New Brighton. Appreciate all the advice. 

When checking alignment, my money is always on it needing adjustment, even right off the delivery truck.  Too much flex, movement, settling, vibration, you name it... it will cause a poor engine alignment.  The maximum gap allowed on the coupler is 0.003", which is about the thickness of a human hair.  I can't believe how many I actually find that are actually rubbing on another component.  The engine alignment and trailer are the most neglected things I usually see.

Sounds about right.