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Cylinder Misfire - Diagnostic & Fix Advice


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samahickman

Boat: 2014 VLX, 350 Monsoon SS, 500hrs

Problem: Engine Fault Code SPN: 65591 FL1:7 (Cylinder 1 Misfire); however, no observable performance problem (i.e. sounds good, runs good, performs good)

What I've done:

  • Compression test. Cyl 1 in-line w/adjacent cylinder (3) and holds pressure fine. 
  • Spark Plugs. Checked for spark and looked OK. Replaced all 8 anyway preventatively. 
  • Run thru 6+ warm up/cool down cycles. Error code still present. 

Question for Crew:

  • Next, will replace distributor cap and rotor. Is there a way to do this without pulling off intake manifold (see photo)? And, if I do pull manifold, do I need new gaskets or can I just replace? Any tips for this process would be welcome!
  • Spark Plug Wires: Due to location of distributor, I can't swap wires to test if I've got bad wire without pulling manifold. So, wondering if I should just plan to replace cap, rotor and wires all at same time? They look good?
  • If I am getting spark at the plug, am I wrong to think the problem is in cap/rotor/wires?  

Y'all have been a great help to me over the years. Thank you. 

IMG_5498.jpg

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Posted (edited)

It is possible to remove but nearly impossible to reinstall the cap and you need to be careful with the screws not to go too tight since they are self threading.  Intake gasket can be reused.  You need to remove those 6 bolts and unhook one of the throttle body harness connections (I think) to move it far enough out of the way.  I have not completely removed it on my 2012.

 

WP_20160610_16_46_47_Pro.jpg

 

WP_20160610_16_46_37_Pro.jpg

Edited by oldjeep
  • Like 1
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If you do remove the intake plenum cover to access the HVS cap, rotor, and ignition wires, I would use that opportunity to swap the #1 fuel injector with the #7 fuel injector to see if the misfire fault code changes.  The HVS cam angle should be checked with Diacom to verify it is at 700 to 710 degrees when the engine is running above 1200 RPM to prevent ignition cross-fire.  Also, the fuel rail pressure should be 58 to 62 PSI.  Anything below 55 PSI or above 64 PSI is a problem.  Make sure the flame arrestor is clean and in good condition. 

Any excessive vibration in the powertrain or running gear could be interpreted as a misfire by the ECM.  Damaged propeller or propshaft, poor engine alignment, loose raw water pump bracket, or even a damaged flywheel drive plate could cause a misfire alarm.

  • Like 3
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samahickman

UPDATE: A friend of mine advised I give it the "italian tune-up" (run real hard for awhile) before swapping out more parts. So, went slalom skiing this morning and alarm/code still present at startup but, after 6 runs, 34mph, 5000 RPM, it cleared. No more alarms and no fault codes in the submenu. I'm flummoxed because the manual says "3 warm-up and cool down cycles" to clear the code, which I've done in excess. I'm going to get a new cap/rotor regardless and have on hand in event it comes back. But, hope this helps someone! 

Thank you both! Chuck--I just realized you're in Victoria. Basically a stone's throw from me in New Brighton. Appreciate all the advice. 

  • Like 2
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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, samahickman said:

UPDATE: A friend of mine advised I give it the "italian tune-up" (run real hard for awhile) before swapping out more parts. So, went slalom skiing this morning and alarm/code still present at startup but, after 6 runs, 34mph, 5000 RPM, it cleared. No more alarms and no fault codes in the submenu. I'm flummoxed because the manual says "3 warm-up and cool down cycles" to clear the code, which I've done in excess. I'm going to get a new cap/rotor regardless and have on hand in event it comes back. But, hope this helps someone! 

Thank you both! Chuck--I just realized you're in Victoria. Basically a stone's throw from me in New Brighton. Appreciate all the advice. 

If you want any local help - let me know.  Always happy for a reason to get on a bike and work on stuff.  Fwiw - also own the diacomm software.

Edited by oldjeep
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Bluthndr

Same issue.  Same code.  Definitely has a misfire.  350ss 2013 VTX.  As far as I can tell the Monsoon 350SS is basically a marinized 350 vortec crica 1998.  

Is there a place to get a cap and rotor and O2 sensors other than Malibu/Indmar?

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Posted (edited)
30 minutes ago, Bluthndr said:

Same issue.  Same code.  Definitely has a misfire.  350ss 2013 VTX.  As far as I can tell the Monsoon 350SS is basically a marinized 350 vortec crica 1998.  

Is there a place to get a cap and rotor and O2 sensors other than Malibu/Indmar?

Cap and rotor are standard Chevy stuff. Indmar used cheap aluminum contact stuff.  Better off with Accell stuff with brass contacts , especially in a vtx where the pylon drains onto the distributor.

Edited by oldjeep
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That style distributor cap can malfunction and cross fire. Went thru a lot of them on an old suburban, and a couple on my Response.

 

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samahickman
On 6/4/2024 at 6:41 PM, Bluthndr said:

Same issue.  Same code.  Definitely has a misfire.  350ss 2013 VTX.  As far as I can tell the Monsoon 350SS is basically a marinized 350 vortec crica 1998.  

Is there a place to get a cap and rotor and O2 sensors other than Malibu/Indmar?

I ordered from Amazon. Same Quicksilver kit but 50 dollars cheaper than Bakes Marine. Haven't put on yet given my code dropped this week, but expecting it to come back soon knowing my luck. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBFG5K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

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21 minutes ago, samahickman said:

I ordered from Amazon. Same Quicksilver kit but 50 dollars cheaper than Bakes Marine. Haven't put on yet given my code dropped this week, but expecting it to come back soon knowing my luck. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBFG5K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Holy crap.  $111 for a cap and rotor?  This is the Accel stuff on Amazon

image.thumb.png.86afd196125a067fcf5a8786ceddbd9f.png

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Bluthndr

Replaced the plugs, cap, rotor all with ACDelco stuff.  The plugs had a paint mark on them, making me think they were original (at 800 hours).  Also replaced all 4 O2 Sensors with Denso ones as my experience with Vortec 5.7s in the auto world is that replacing old (but functional and non coding) O2 sensors will often give an improvement in fuel consumption.

When I pulled the upper intake I noticed the K&N flame arrestor was starting to grow hair and filthy too, so I cleaned it off as best I could for now.

Took the boat out today and it seemed to fire slightly faster on startup.  Ran smooth and seemed good and powerful.  Haven’t surfed with it yet with all the weight/load but what little testing I did it seemed promising.  4 heat cycles so far and I’m still getting the service message and the code remains.  But it seems to run good.  I’ll wait it out for a few weeks.

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Bluthndr

Not huge.  I had to take the upper intake off but that was simple - 6 bolts and unplug the throttle body connector and the MAP sensor connector.  Same part number for all 4 (upstream and downstream).  The upstream sensors sit in a depression so I had to go to my shop and get a different (thinner) socket to access them.  The rear (downstream) sensors I took out with a combination wrench.  I feel better knowing all that stuff is "right" and "new" on a 11 year old b ok at ok want to be trouble-free.

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