Hi All - Reaching out for some ideas on what to check.

I have issues witht he engine cranking on a 2017 Response TXI

Its the non-Open edition so only has key start instead of a large touch screen.

When I go to start the engine, I can turn the switch to "On" and all the dash lights up as expected.

Turning the switch to start results in nothing. Its similar to if the throttle control is not in Neutral and doesnt start.

The first time it happened, I checked the throttle position to ensure it was in neutral.

Wiggling the key in the switch finally made the engine crank and start. Each time for the rest of the day wiggling the key would eventually start the engine.

I assumed it was the ignition switch so replaced it with a new one. The engine started 10 times out of 10 in the driveway.

Next day out a few days later on the river. It did it again. Exactly same symptoms so its definitely not the switch. Diagnosing again today cant fault it.

Trying to work out what to check next. I'll have my multi-meter with me next time we go out but I'd rather fix it before hand.

Does any one have a wiring diagram of a 2017 TXI?

Assuming everything goes back to the ECU, where is the ECU located? Is there a pinout of the ECU available?

I'm wondering where the ignition switch and neutral interlock wire up to.

It might be a loose wire but everything seems ok.

There shouldn't be any significant risk of freeze damage on the M5/M6 engines during storage as long as the raw water drain plugs and strainer bowl are removed, and it is possible to verify that they have drained.  I would not normally recommend reinstalling the plugs and strainer bowl during storage with the newer plastic drain plugs, unless it is absolutely necessary.  Testing the coolant mixture with a refractometer is also a good idea to ensure the closed cooling system is protected to the proper level, depending on how cold temperatures are expected to be.  Concentrated coolant can be added and run through the closed cooling system for storage if required, depending on the freeze protection level needed.

The only advantage I have really seen by running the engine and pumping RV antifreeze into the raw water system is the ability to reinstall the drain plugs and check for leaks while still protecting the system from freeze damage during storage, instead of waiting for spring to install the plugs.  It can also dilute any raw water that may have been trapped in the system.

Even undiluted RV -50 degree F antifreeze can turn to frozen slush between 0 to 14 degrees, and may freeze solid at 0 to -50 degrees F without the risk of actual bursting damage to the cooling system in most cases.

1 hour ago, Joshuntnd said:

That color is obsolete. We replaced all of our interior this year using skins from Gabe. Gabe is awesome to deal with! 

No crap.  The replacement skins Definitely did not have it.  But a lot of the originals did.

I suspect outside the USA Malibu won’t bother trying to contact owners as ruling won’t apply. It’d be very hard to make contact here in New Zealand anyway. For example my Australian built Response LXi is now 20yrs old and has had several owners. Malibu has no idea I’m the current owner, and there’s no national register of boats. Maybe via all insurance companies they could seek to contact owners, but I suspect privacy regulations will prevent the insurance companies giving out owner details.

On 10/30/2023 at 7:31 AM, ahopkins22LSV said:

I’m struggle to understand this process. Doesn’t all of the antifreeze just drain out after filling since you are leaving the drain plugs out?

Yes I think so.  This year I just ran the boat for 20 mins on idle while using raw water coolant, then I ran 10 gallons of antifreeze into the engine after the engine had reached normal operating temp.  Then I just left the drain plugs in, instead of removing them.

I also have a temp controlled garage with a backup generator and a bilge heater, just for extra protection.

I think it's better to leave the drain plugs in after running the antifreeze thru the engine.