My G5 tower clamping racks do not seem to be tight enough to hold my surf boards.  Any suggestions.

Thanks

Martin

Control screen would only flash momentarily, but will not boot up.  12 inch screen does not come on either.  Dealer looked at it, and said it was the 7 in screen, so I got a refurbished from MTC screens.  It would not boot up either, so I took the boat back to dealer, and he said it was the screen still.  Charles at MTC screens sent me a different screen, and it still will not boot up.  I'm not sure if dealer is really able to check that power, but I am concerned that there is some other damage in the wiring.  I have had some damage from varmints in other things around, and we did have a mouse or rat get in last year while it was on its lift, but we know we killed that one, and everything worked for months after.  

I need to call Charles back tomorrow and make sure of some of the details on power  pins I got from him recently, now that I've had a chance to open it back up.  I will check the specific pins once I confirm them. 

I am in Arkansas, and wondering about finding someone who can dig deeper, and see if the wiring is messed up somewhere along the line.  If anyone has any thoughts, I'm all ears. 

Just a note to anyone reading this in the future.  I had similar issues on my 07 a couple years ago.  Would run on the fake-a-lake just fine, would run at higher speeds, but would choke out at idle sometimes just stuttering and sometimes dying.  What I found was a hole in my silent rider exhaust was pumping CO2 into the airspace of the engine and at idle it didn't have enough fresh air to run.  At higher speeds it was pulling enough clean air to run fine.  On the fake-a-lake I always had the hatch open, so again it had fresh air.  I did a muffler delete and it has ran great since.  I know that the posters above had different issues, but this can also happen.

The fuel gauge in my 2025 MXZ's 65 Gallon tank is laughably problematic. It falls from 100% to 88% within minutes. After running it to 0%, 15 gallons are still remaining (I could only fill 50 gallons at the gas station). The dealer chalked this up to a 15 gallon reserve. Is it just me or is 23% of the tanks capacity a bit excessive. I personally would prefer that 0%=0% (or maybe 5% at most). More likely, is the sender's quality/sizing poorly specified? 

There are a handful of threads on this topic, but it's been a few years. 

In my searches I ran into this Livorsi sender that can be custom cut to any length , then once cut it can auto calibrate revised "Empty" and "Full" states.  

A couple of questions for the group: 

1. Is 0% (at the gauge) = 23% (in the tank) remaining acceptable? Is this what I should expect?
2. Has anyone tried the Autocal Livorsi sender above? 
3. Any other suggestions for improvement? 

Thanks!
 

I agree that you may have had to run the rest of the crud through the engine to get it out.  Condensation in fuel tanks isn't nearly the problem it used to be with metal tanks, but it can still happen.  The issue is that cold temperatures lower the dew point of the air inside the tank, which causes the water in the air to condense.  Once the water forms a drop and gets into the fuel, it sinks to the bottom and stays as water.  Over repeated warming/cooling cycles, the tank pumps new fresh air in through the vent.  This provides more water to condense into the tank.

The standard solution for this is to store your boat with the tank completely full so it has minimal room for air.