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    • Loose or corroded connections causing voltage drop is by far the most common cause of electrical issues, including no-crank.  Verify the battery condition and the battery cable connections at the battery terminals, battery switch, power distribution post, engine block ground, and starter.

      A faulty starter, starter fuse or relay, neutral safety switch, or problems with any of the wiring or connections between them can also cause a no-crank issue when using the emergency keyswitch.  Controller Area Network (CAN) communication issues can also prevent cranking when using the touchscreen display to start. 

      If you suspect there is a problem with the neutral safety switch in the shift throttle lever control, the 2-way NSS connector on the engine harness near the transmission can be disconnected and jump between the purple and yellow/black wires to bypass it for testing. 

    • 11 hours ago, Skithemidwest said:

      I had similar event when I didn’t realize the o ring from the first filter was still on. The double o ring prevented a tight seal, but the filter felt like it was on tight. Might be worth a check if you don’t see anything else obvious. 

      This is exactly what happened in my case, then I got hydrolocked. Pulled all the plugs, oil came out of cyl 3 and 5, cranked it over a few times, put the plugs back in and it’s good to go 

    • csleaver

      Posted (edited)

      Fault SPN 636 FMI 8 occurs when there is no signal from the Crank Position Sensor (CKP) to the ECM for a certain period of time and will result in a crank-no-start.  Some of the things that can cause the fault are a damaged or loose CKP sensor or reluctor wheel on the crankshaft, or a problem with the CKP sensor or circuit.

      Check the battery condition and the battery cable connections at the battery terminals, battery switch, port battery distribution post, engine block grounds, and starter.  Check the CKP sensor connection and terminals.  It is located at the bottom of the timing chain cover.  Test the CKP sensor and see if the reluctor wheel on the crankshaft is loose.  If the sensor has ever been submerged, then I would recommend replacing the sensor.

      SPN 636 is a type A fault, so it can either be cleared using Rinda Diacom or TechMate, or the fault will become inactive after 3 consecutive running cycles where the fault did not reoccur.  A running cycle is when the engine is started when cold (coolant temp below about 100 deg F), run up to operating temperature (coolant above about 140 deg F), then the engine is stopped and allowed to cool down again before restarting (coolant below about 100 deg F).  That needs to happen 3 times with no fault for the code to become inactive. 

      Here is a link to the Diagnostic manual, SPN 636 is on page 9-100 (pdf pg 145).

      https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://marinepowerusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/MEFI-6-Service-Manual.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwit2c6097iGAxVBIEQIHTuCBQ0QFnoECBYQAQ&usg=AOvVaw16JKBRVeUh4dlixeGw-ZeZ

      Edited by csleaver
    • Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key over? Also try removing and re installing ignition/starter relay, that is a known issue for no crank. 

    • is there a hack to clear the codes if i don't have an OBD-M reader?

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