Oh other things to think about... Market is good for buyers  check out the options, I got  a killer offer on an m220 this week that was on part with the vlsv and that is a better boat lol

1 hour ago, mobius481 said:

I'm upgrading from a 2018 a22 to a 2024 23 lsv. The main reason I'm upgrading is because my a22 doesn't have power wedge and I gotta think I'm gonna start having little issues as the boat gets older and I'm not super close to my dealership. Couple that with good deal on boats and here I am. I have a couple of questions. 

 

1. I'm worried about having a screen.  I've heard lots of horror stories. Are the screens getting more reliable?  

2. I'm getting a low optioned lsv. I have the m5. While I'd love to have the m6, it's not an option right now. Will the m5 be okay?  I am at sea level and typically have between 3 and 6 people in the boat. 

3. How are the stock stereos?  I'll have two rev 10s and a sub. I'm not an audiophile but my last boat had an amazing stereo ( I was the 2nd owner).  Will I need to upgrade? 

 

Is there anything else I. Need to think about when making this jump?  

1-screens are generally good but obviously fail more than a mechanical switch and cost more to repair.  IMO enjoy the new features warranty covers the worst of it.

2.M5 is fine for most prop it right and youll be fine big issue id say is you'll be 1sport set up ideal (ie hard to go from a great surf to great wakeboard with same prop, I want the 6 but I see dd ar more 5s.

3-depends on the options, BU stereo with 2xrev10 is probably going to be great for you.  Has been for me.  Doesn't mean you can't do better if your into that but it's gonna sound good and bang.

Enjoy the ride 

Heard this is a great board looking at them know clue what a regular, deep v, or a trace is though... Descriptions are all the same 

Engine temperature when this occurred?

10 hours ago, Five Cent Worth said:

This didn't fix it.  Same low / high voltage error every 3 - 5 mins with new battery.  Frequency increases when under load vs idling.  When tech left, he said if it persists, I have a bad alternator.  We are on a family lake vacation.  Gonna put dealer to a test in getting this fixed ASAP tomorrow morning.  

Sorry to hear about that.  Hope you have good luck tomorrow.

I went through as much of the electrical system as I could find on mine today, so we will see what happens.  I didn't find any connections that were "loose" per say, but alot (most) that were pretty easy to get tighter.  The only one that I couldn't seem to access was the engine block ground, but the cable seemed pretty tight.

After being on the trickle charger for a week, the batteries were at 13.05 and 12.95V.  That is only .1V, but I was surprised that they were not identical.  After tightening everything up (with the switch in the off position, I turned on the boat.  I was disappointed to see the XX% for 3 of the 4 ballast tanks and the wedge showing LIFT, even though it was stowed.  I also noticed that the surf gate selection was not highlighted in CENTER, as expected.

I selected FILL ALL and the mid and front ballast tanks began filling, and the level indicator for the mid ballast came to life.  No response from the rear ballast, which was confirmed by trying to drain them with nothing coming out.

After selecting FILL ALL again, the rear's came to life.

I was also able to select stow on the wedge and it seemed to accept that.

I went through several complete power cycles and all behaved as expected, so hopefully the system just needed to reset itself?  I guess my initial results kind of rule out the concern of not being on the trickle charger for 3 days last week (with pretty significant use each of the 3 days.)

Finally, there are the screen shots of my software version and system info.  Does anyone know if this is the most current?  I tried to check for an OTA update, but I am not sure that all updates are pushed out that way?