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Brent Persson

Propeller's

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Brent Persson

Does anyone know the torque specifications for the prop nut? I have a 99 Response but I don't think that matters. Also, how do you go about tightening the prop nut? I know a lot of people that use a 2X4 against the hull, but I am afraid that I might bend a blade before I even get the boat in the water.

Also, has anyone ever tried a composite key, instead of a brass/nibral or SS? I though I read something about using one because it will shear-off at impact lessening damage, especially with a SS propeller.

Lastly, if anyone has any tips on removing a prop using a poor man's (NO Prop Puller) method I would appreciate the input. I was thinking about using ratchet tie down straps attached to the trailer, but I am worried they will stretch and sling-shot the prop, damaging it. Then If all else fails a rope to the hitch of my lightning and flooring it, :lol: .

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NorCaliBu

For removal, boil a pot of water and carefully pour it on the hub of the prop. The heat will expand the metal and make it come off easier. Then tap the hub of the prop with a dead-blow hammer (or rubber mallet might work). Be sure to leave the prop nut on the very end of the shaft to keep the prop from flying off.

For tightening...couldn't you just put the tranny in gear?

Not sure about torque spec's and no experience with the composite shaft key...sorry. Someone else maybe...

Edited by NorCaliBu

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Sunsetter95
For removal, boil a pot of water and carefully pour it on the hub of the prop.  The heat will expand the metal and make it come off easier.  Then tap the hub of the prop with a dead-blow hammer (or rubber mallet might work).  Be sure to leave the prop nut on the very end of the shaft to keep the prop from flying off.

For tightening...couldn't you just put the tranny in gear?

Not sure about torque spec's and no experience with the composite shaft key...sorry.  Someone else maybe...

I had to use a 6lbs hammer and a removal tool from ACME. It basically is a large nut the you hit with the hammer. The shock from the blow up the shaft will break the prop loose.

The trans is all hydraulic, so putting it in gear will not work.

I put the nut as tight as I could without over doing it.

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Waterbuggy

You can secure the shaft for either tightening or loosining the prop nut by using a 9/16 box end wrench on the head of one of the four bolts of the coupling flange at the transmission. Place the wrench on the bolt head and carefully rotate the shaft until the wrench binds against the hull in the direction opposite the force you apply to the nut. Invest in a good prop puller. Part of the cost of owning in inboard.

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OGGIE

I would only use a brass key.The reason brass is used is because it is soft and will shear off alot easier than stainless and cause less damage to your prop etc.

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Pistol Pete

Hot water is a good start.

Prop puller is a must, just get one.

Brass key from now on for sure.

block of wood wrapped in a few layers of a towel against the hull and against one fin of the prop for removal and installation of the nut.

Put some anti-seize on the shaft where the prop is going to rest.

Get the nut as tight as you can.

Nice new stainless cotter pin.

Send old prop out for repair and keep in tow vehicle as spare 'cause you might need it later in the season when the water levels get lower.

Edited by Pistol Pete

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Chauncemaster
Does anyone know the torque specifications for the prop nut? 

My instructions for my new ACME Prop said to tighten to 30 ft/lbs of torque. Also, using a 2x4 to keep the prop from spinning won't damage the hull or prop. You will see when you do it that it does not take all that much force to keep the prop from spinning. Hope that helps and the hot water is definitely key if the prop is jammed on there.

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whiteVLX

A good prop puller is a must and at $100 they are a pretty cheap investment when you consider the heartache you'll go through trying to get the prop off without one.

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mrothwell

I replaced a prop on the lake one day without a puller. Tied the boat, nose out, so that I could sit in about 18" of water (prop was still not close to touching). Took the swim step off, then removed the cotter pin and backed the nut off a couple turns and put the cotter pin back in. Idled the boat back into open water and put it in reverse a couple times and powered it up fairly high (high for reverse). Then idled back to shore and tied up again. Removed cotter pin, then took the nut off and simply slid the prop off the shaft. This worked well, but be very careful, dont back the nut off too much, and make sure you put the cotter pin back in. Always cary an extra cotter, and an extra key.

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SacRiverRat
A good prop puller is a must and at $100 they are a pretty cheap investment when you consider the heartache you'll go through trying to get the prop off without one.

It comes off just fine with the hot water and a couple firm whacks to the back (of the prop) Wouldn't call it a "must"... and when traveling, is one more thing to take for the -just-in-case..

I think it is a "nice to have" - but YRMV

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denjoe

Is the stock prop on the 05 VLX an ACME prop? After reading everyone's post, I think I should invest into a spare prop. Where is the best place to get the prop?

Thanks,

Joe

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Chauncemaster
Is the stock prop on the 05 VLX an ACME prop?  After reading everyone's post, I think I should invest into a spare prop.  Where is the best place to get the prop? 

Thanks,

Joe

After looking into the same thing for my VLX I decided the best prop for wakeboarding with some weight is the ACME 537 and I ordered it from wakeside.

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whiteVLX
A good prop puller is a must and at $100 they are a pretty cheap investment when you consider the heartache you'll go through trying to get the prop off without one.

It comes off just fine with the hot water and a couple firm whacks to the back (of the prop) Wouldn't call it a "must"... and when traveling, is one more thing to take for the -just-in-case..

I think it is a "nice to have" - but YRMV

I'm sure it does, but I've never seen a boat ramp where there's a supply of hot water available, lot's of hot air is always available however. :)

I keep my puller in the gunnel along with a crescent wrench. The spare prop, nut, key and cotter pin are all stored under the observers seat. That way I can put a new prop on in the water if I have to.

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SacRiverRat
A good prop puller is a must and at $100 they are a pretty cheap investment when you consider the heartache you'll go through trying to get the prop off without one.

It comes off just fine with the hot water and a couple firm whacks to the back (of the prop) Wouldn't call it a "must"... and when traveling, is one more thing to take for the -just-in-case..

I think it is a "nice to have" - but YRMV

I'm sure it does, but I've never seen a boat ramp where there's a supply of hot water available, lot's of hot air is always available however. :)

I keep my puller in the gunnel along with a crescent wrench. The spare prop, nut, key and cotter pin are all stored under the observers seat. That way I can put a new prop on in the water if I have to.

Yup - though if I'm out for a multi day trip, there is usually a stove around.. if it is a one day, I wouldn't have brought the extra prop anyway and would just call it a day.

Just wait till I finally bend a prop - never have... then I'll be singing a different tune. For now, I know I could change it using the hot water, if I had to (that is assuming I even brought the extra prop)

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