Morse MV3 Throttle Friction Springs Available

[barefootrocker]

I've duplicated the throttle friction spring from the Morse MV3 throttle control that was notorious for breaking, causing the throttle to be loose and not hold position. If anyone is interested I'll make a batch. Let me know.

Originals were .025" (24 GA) stainless. Mine would be .032" (22 GA) 301 full hard tempered stainless, so should work and hold up well.

[uk_exile]

Dumb questions:

1. Where is the spring in the lower photo? 
2. What years have this type throttle control?

[barefootrocker]

@uk_exile I had removed it. The spring lays in here (red line).

I’ve been trying to figure out what years and models this throttle came in, but couldn’t. Mine is a 2003 Response LXI. This spring was not in the earlier MV2, the square body throttle control. And this is what the MV3 looks like. Best I can do ha.

[uk_exile]

Thanks! My 03 RLXi has one of those throttles so I'm keen to add one into my spares box if you're making a few. 

[redrooster]

Wow.  I am in the process of adjusting mine.  I'll keep this in mind.  

[barefootrocker]

On the topic of throttle service.

The throttle and shift cable pivots are a wear item (10 or 20 years maybe, but still a wear item). If there’s play in the lever, these could be why. Check them out, consider replacing. Could cause a dangerous situation if one breaks.

https://skiboatpartsonline.com/american-skier-cable-end-pivot?search=Pivot

Clean and grease the preload spring and slider. If you have jerky action especially going in and out of gear, or if the engine speed advances before shifting gears, or other odd behavior, this could be why. Here’s an excellent video from Ron Tanis of skiboatpartsonline.com, he’s an excellent resource.

And finally, the throttle assembly (at least in my 2003) was simply screwed through the plastic side panel, with some little plastic backing plates for reinforcement. Not a great way to do it. On mine, two of the plates were broken and one was missing entirely, causing the entire throttle assembly mounting to be loose against the side panel. Remove the control, drill out the holes, install #10 threaded jack nuts, and reinstall the control with nice stainless machine screws.

 

Good luck! And I will have a price on those springs and availability soon.

Edited February 16 by barefootrocker

[barefootrocker]

Just confirmed, the next generation of control, the MV3-E with drive by wire, does have this spring as well.

[achimbos]

1 hour ago, barefootrocker said:

Just confirmed, the next generation of control, the MV3-E with drive by wire, does have this spring as well.

That spring you have circled is the new version where two springs are used to help with the throttle falling forward while underway.

[barefootrocker]

@achimbos it is the same spring as the original. There was just an “update” where they started doubling it to create more friction and holding power.

My springs will be full hard tempered stainless, and .032” thick versus the .025” original. So they will already create more friction than the original single. Using one or two will be up to the user and their preference though.

[redrooster]

What is the year breakdown for these controls?   

[barefootrocker]

@redrooster I’m not certain. The two I’ve confirmed are mine, a 2003 with the MV3 mechanical, and my buddy’s, a 2012 drive by wire. So presumably 2003-2012 is included, not sure outside of that.

[John I.]

Pretty sure my ‘01 SSLXi also has the MV3.

[barefootrocker]

So after some research it looks like from 1999 to 2003 or so was the transition period from MV2 (no spring) to MV3, but it varies by model. Anyone will have to simply look at which model they have. This is the MV2 model with no spring, with the square housing:

And this is the MV3 model with the spring, which came in both mechanical and electronic throttle versions, which had the curved sides on the housing and the curved throttle lever:

And at the end of the day you can pull the three screws to the housing, pull it off, and check for the spring(s) to be sure.

Thanks,

Aaron

[barefootrocker]

Here is the eBay listing:

Morse MV3 Springs

I opted for eBay because it’s the only way I knew to use a flat rate for shipping.

Edited February 27 by barefootrocker

[redrooster]

That's freaking awesome!!  I am buying two!!!   Was replacing the brass eyelets and mine fell out in two pieces.   

[UWSkier]

The MV2 is so much nicer and smoother than the MV3.  Wish I had that on my boat.  They went to the MV3 when they went away from direct-to-fiberglass mounting of the throttle control.  On my dad's 01 VLX, the MV2 is screwed right to the fiberglass that made up the drivers armrest.  On my '01, I have the cheap plastic armrest setup they started using in the '99+ Sunsetter LXi, with the MV3 screwed to that.

I have a lot of friction in my MV3 with or without the spring.  I've changed the throttle cable, adjusted it a bunch, even tried a different MV3, but still just a lot of friction.  I think it's due to the PerfectPass bracket and the relocation of the throttle body pivot point with that in place.

[barefootrocker]

@redrooster same exact process for me ha

@UWSkier in my experience the MV2 and MV3 feel similar. If you have poor action with your MV3 I’d suggest looking again. Throttle cable routed incorrectly and kinked, throttle assembly installed incorrectly or maybe a piece of something interfering with the arms on the back of the control, Perfect Pass routing not quite right, or the junction between PP and the existing throttle cable, something in the throttle body binding, throttle cable mounted at the throttle body crooked such that the end of the cable is binding…. Just spitballing here.

Finally, if you don’t like how the MV3 is just screwed into the plastic (I sure didn’t), see my post above about using jack nuts. It made a HUGE difference in mounting rigidity. 

Good luck.

[redrooster]

Finally imjur is working.   This is what I stumbled upon.  

[justgary]

Yeah, that one is almost ready for replacement.

[formulaben]

They look fine until you remove them.  Buy them there:

https://skidim.com/connector-control-cable/

[barefootrocker]

@formulaben @redrooster oh lawd yeah time to change those. Mine were actually in pretty decent shape for 1200 hours. Previous owners must have done a lot of cruising and idling.

[Bozboat]

Thanks for the springs, I got mine (2) to add to my spare parts collection. 😎I have replaced the brass connectors and have a spare as well. 

[barefootrocker]

@Bozboat good to hear!

For anyone else that ordered this first batch, sorry for the delays. I am a professional fabricator but not a retailer, had to navigate packaging and shipping ha.

[redrooster]

Got mine in!!  Works great. 

 

FYI, get the short brass fittings. The long ones will pull out and wobble and makes it a looser tolerance on the cables ifyou don't put a washer behind them.  Which is crazy because I bought these from bakes and they told me it was one size fits all.  

[justgary]

14 hours ago, barefootrocker said:

had to navigate packaging and shipping ha.

Pirateship.com for shipping!  Yarrgghh!