Echelon guage replacement

[Michigan boarder]

I am finally getting this done this winter, starting in a couple of weeks.  I am pulling the boat out of storage to have a custom cover made (thanks @Bozboat, we will be modifying your old SSLxi cover) and I am going to tackle the beat up dash at the same time.  I will be removing my old computron display and having a new panel made that I will cut my own guage holes in.  I am thinking of this set of guages:

https://www.myinboardmarine.com/products/gauge-set-with-gps-speedometer-6-guages-faria-chesapeake-ss-black#

Is there any reason to go with something different?  I really like the speedo range on this one, and both my pitots have already been removed so the GPS will be very nice, rather than using my phone as a speedo.

I already have a matching Faria depth guage to install and I plan to buy a matching hour meter. 

Edited February 5 by Michigan boarder

[hawaiianstyln]

Im going through this right now on a completely gutted entire Project boat 2000 Wakesetter VlX.  In fact i just finished a new mold plate insert for the gauges panel, started re-spraying everything.  Next is spray the dash after some repairs and then carbon fiber my switch and dash panels (made out of ABS plastic)

[bcoppess23]

7 minutes ago, hawaiianstyln said:

Im going through this right now on a completely gutted entire Project boat 2000 Wakesetter VlX.  In fact i just finished a new mold plate insert for the gauges panel, started re-spraying everything.  Next is spray the dash after some repairs and then carbon fiber my switch and dash panels (made out of ABS plastic)

Where are you documenting this project?!  We want to see more pictures!

[hawaiianstyln]

16 minutes ago, bcoppess23 said:

Where are you documenting this project?!  We want to see more pictures!

Sort of on my facebook page and a few on the OG Wakesetter page i admin.  I can create a separate thread somewhere here and document?

Edited January 18 by hawaiianstyln

[Bozboat]

13 minutes ago, hawaiianstyln said:

Sort of on my facebook page and a few on the OG Wakesetter page i admin.  I can create a separate thread somewhere here and document?

Please share

[bcoppess23]

Yes please share something! 

[Michigan boarder]

Nice job @hawaiianstyln!  Wish I was able to do Perfect Pass, but I don't have the cash for it right now.  When you say "spray", are you doing a vinyl paint?  I see your tabs all appear intact, that is nice, I think most of mine have broken off of the dash pod.  It's a mess.  I'll post pics of mine too when I access the boat, probably next week.  I don't think I am going to tackle all of my toggle switches yet, I plan to do the guages and run it, make sure all is good first.

[hawaiianstyln]

@Michigan boarder i just used this as its capable of adhering to plastics and vinyl.  

[solorex]

Kinda a different application but same. On my Tantrum I went with Livorsi Gauges.  Used alumalite as the panel and wrapped it with 3M carbon fiber look wrap.  Turned out really nice, could do the same thing with your gauge cluster.  The only thing I can't justify yet is the price of the Livorsi GPS Ski gauge, so I'm still running my stock single pitot tube.  Surprisingly my speedo is still accurate compared to GPS on my phone.  Not bad for a 26yr  old gauge!

[Michigan boarder]

I ended up finding the same set KTF064 at Marine Parts Source for $362.05 with tax, shipped to my door.  

[Nick55]

Those are the gauges my old Supra has, in a white face.  They came with the Tanis Medallion delete conversion, and they are solid.  No issues with them whatsoever.  Good luck on the project!

[Woodski]

@Michigan boarder - If you like the choice, there is not a reason to go a different route.  Personally, the old Airguide asymmetric display with wider graduations at key slalom ski speeds is something I value.  Over the years technology has offered alternate ways of measuring, controlling and reading boat speed.  As a frequent course user, precise and controlled speed is important, hence speed control, accurate speedo's, course timing are all of high priority.  Perfect Pass does that, but I still like to have good visual reference as a driver.  My Airguides are still pitot read, the PP is GPS and my nerdiness added a phone holder on the side window, the speedometer app (with the sultry British female voice) has accuracy to a decimal point.  I have found the Airguides reliable and consistently calibrated.     

[Michigan boarder]

On 2/2/2024 at 2:50 PM, Woodski said:

@Michigan boarder - If you like the choice, there is not a reason to go a different route.  Personally, the old Airguide asymmetric display with wider graduations at key slalom ski speeds is something I value.  Over the years technology has offered alternate ways of measuring, controlling and reading boat speed.  As a frequent course user, precise and controlled speed is important, hence speed control, accurate speedo's, course timing are all of high priority.  Perfect Pass does that, but I still like to have good visual reference as a driver.  My Airguides are still pitot read, the PP is GPS and my nerdiness added a phone holder on the side window, the speedometer app (with the sultry British female voice) has accuracy to a decimal point.  I have found the Airguides reliable and consistently calibrated.     

I haven't had speed information in like 6 years, we've just been going by RPM, by feel or using the phone.  This will be a huge upgrade!  We are lucky to have not needed it too badly, having good experienced drivers that can operate by "feel" and holding a steady RPM.  And I'm not a slalom guy, it's pretty much barefoot and wakeboard behind our boat.   Mostly barefoot.  And, I really want to update the whole dash with removal of the computron, adding depth/air temp/water temp, hour meter, etc.  I'll probably hang onto my old Airguides though just in case.

[Michigan boarder]

This whole panel just pulled right out, not one single fastener was holding it.  Any ideas on a better re-installation?   Also, some of the housing is cracked.  I'm not sure what to do with that, probably will cut some scrap pieces from something and epoxy it together from the underside as a bridge.

[UWSkier]

1 hour ago, Michigan boarder said:

This whole panel just pulled right out, not one single fastener was holding it.  Any ideas on a better re-installation?   Also, some of the housing is cracked.  I'm not sure what to do with that, probably will cut some scrap pieces from something and epoxy it together from the underside as a bridge.

Could get some fiberglass mat and resin and put a couple layers in behind those cracks blind.  Wear good nitrile gloves and just use your fingers to press it into form.

[Woodski]

Not surprised, that panel material is terrible, way too thin and brittle at the fastener location.  I glued some balsa strips then added rivnuts for the screws.

[Michigan boarder]

1 hour ago, Woodski said:

Not surprised, that panel material is terrible, way too thin and brittle at the fastener location.  I glued some balsa strips then added rivnuts for the screws.

My buddy was the prior owner, and I remember his kid standing in front of the steering wheel facing the rear, putting his feet up on the drivers seat and sitting on the dash.  Cringeworthy.  I'd like to remove the whole thing and recover it, but that's a lot of work.  I'll see what I can get done with leaving it in place.

[hawaiianstyln]

Nice, I'm almost done at this point.  The wraps on the panels are almost done and I got all new jacknuts since those were rusted to hell.  I'll update this group soon

 

[Michigan boarder]

Also, what should I use for new dash material?  Can I get aluminum stock somehow?  I can't recall the thickness but I do have a caliper/micrometer at the house.

Edit: nevermind, you can get sheet aluminum stock everywhere

 

Edited February 5 by Michigan boarder

[Michigan boarder]

Maybe some of this?

[Michigan boarder]

On 1/18/2024 at 2:46 PM, hawaiianstyln said:

Im going through this right now on a completely gutted entire Project boat 2000 Wakesetter VlX.  In fact i just finished a new mold plate insert for the gauges panel, started re-spraying everything.  Next is spray the dash after some repairs and then carbon fiber my switch and dash panels (made out of ABS plastic)

What is your mold plate made of?

[hawaiianstyln]

1/8th" HPDE.  Actually, I think its Starboard which is the same stuff as HPDE but Starboard is UV resistant.

[hawaiianstyln]

Keep in mind that cutting aluminum (custom cuts) is probably not as fun as dealing with cutting plastic.  All I had to do was make sure I got a plastic jig saw blade because normal blades will just melt the plastic back together when you are cutting.  

[Michigan boarder]

17 hours ago, hawaiianstyln said:

Keep in mind that cutting aluminum (custom cuts) is probably not as fun as dealing with cutting plastic.  All I had to do was make sure I got a plastic jig saw blade because normal blades will just melt the plastic back together when you are cutting.  

I was thinking aluminum because of the small bends, but I can probably make those with some heat on the starboard.  I'm going to start with the starboard.

[hawaiianstyln]

@Michigan boarder That is a good idea as well if you are making bends.  Not hard to heat up plastic and make bends too.  Good luck