GatorStep Install on Swim Step (what to do with the rub rail...)

[Hamboats]

Fitment question incoming....

Hey all -

I know there are lots of you out there that prefer to stay away from GatorStep and elect to stay with other products.  This thread isn't about that.  The decision has already been made and the money spent, so hopefully this doesn't devolve into a "Why did you buy GatorStep?  This other flooring is so much better!" discussion.  All that said (with tongue in cheek, of course), here's my question:

The factory flooring from Malibu runs underneath the rub rail at the aft most line along the swim step (see photos).  It's gathered and tucked under that rub rail.  It appears that it's a great idea because it helps prevent the flooring from pulling up over time as people slide on and off the swim step.  

Here's my issue:  After looking at the fitment template, it appears that the GatorStep flooring is designed to end just as it abuts the rub rail (does not go underneath it at all).  

I called up the fine folks at GatorStep (no sarcasm there, they're actually awesome), they told me that "Most people don't remove the rub rail at all and elect to have the new flooring just go up to, but not under the rub rail.  They just 'dig' the flooring out with a razor."

Really?  Dig it out?

Aside from that likely taking days to get done properly, it's NOT the way I'd like to spend all those hours.  Plus, I feel like it would leave a big gap in the space between the rub rail and the swim step.  I suppose I could just cut it flush with the top of the rub rail and not dig any out.  Hmmm....

The guy said that people tend not to remove the rub rail because Malibu doesn't use any hardware in the factory to provide a backing nut plate in the swim step.  They say that the factory just screws in the (very) small screws directly into the swim step and that if you remove them, they won't reseat.  Now, I know I could just screw in some slightly larger screws, put epoxy in there or relocate the holes altogether if I affix a new rub rail....but, does anyone here have any experience with this or any advice?

I feel like I'd like to have that overlap and to have the rub rail cover the edge to prevent the flooring from pulling away over time.  But, maybe someone here has tried doing that before and found it won't work out?  Or, maybe the opposite?

Anyway, any ideas or experience with this.....anyone?

 

[wdr]

I like the idea of the overlap as well. If you use your boat a lot or have kids it is likely going to end up like the picture you posted. IIWM, I would have GS cut the pieces to the specs shown. That SS trim piece is really thin and will bend and crease very easily so handle with care or 2 people. On my 2010 when I redid it in GS, I had an issue with the trim screws also. I happened to have longer SS screws of the same size to replace the stripped ones. If you can’t get longer screws you could re-resin the holes with a Spectrum kit or worst case scenario you could fill the screw holes with tooth picks like you would on the hinge holes on a door. Granted it’s kind of a beer cans and baling wire fix, but it would hold for the life of the boat I bet. Easily upgradable if required. 

[Hamboats]

25 minutes ago, wdr said:

If you use your boat a lot or have kids

BOTH!!

Thanks for the insight. I’m heavily leaning in the direction of having GS cut the aft edge of the step flooring about ¼” longer just to be certain I’ll get a good overlap. 

[wdr]

If you use a roller to apply the GS you can get it to stretch @ 1/4 to 1/2” depending on the piece. Long thin strips like on the top of the gunnels are easy to over stretch so be careful. The beauty of the GS is if you prep it correctly you can pull it up to reposition it if you don’t like the initial lay down. I dish soap and bristle brush cleaned the surfaces first then finished with isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth. On the transom I took the main area down with 400 grit then clean it. On the exposed transom edges I buffed and polished it by hand to finish the job. 

[Hamboats]

In case this goes into the archives and someone replacing their flooring on some future 2030 LSV has the same question…

The removal of the rub rail was (obviously) quite easy. It revealed the foam and I easily removed that to end with a very clean swim step. This will allow for a clean install of the new GatorStep without fear of that seam as it abuts the rub rail looking ‘janky’. We pay too much for these boats to have them look half-a** IMHO.

I sourced some stainless screws that are one quarter inch longer than the originals and I also epoxied the current holes left behind by the screws I removed. My primary concern here is to assure that when I reinstall the rub rail (I’m reusing the piece I removed), if it’s off by just a smidge, I wouldn’t want the screw to get ‘pulled’ over into the previous hole and then seat at an angle. Sliding on and off the swimstep with a screw head sticking out doesn’t sound like much fun to me. 

When I chatted with the folks at GS after the initial template fitting, I told them I wanted to assure that I had sufficient overlap to go over the end of the step so it would tuck under the rub rail. If you choose to do the same, I’d advise letting them know as they said they typically cut them shorter so as to not overlap. Though, as @wdr said above, GS can be stretched a bit to fit. 

Now all that’s left is to apply to flooring and pilot drill the holes to reattach the rub rail.