2008 LSV - Heater Core and Heater Hose Replacement

[Soon2BV]

I had a leak at my heater, and didn't know if it was the core or a hose, so I got the materials and replaced both.  I took some photos to document some of the steps. 

Boat is a 2008 LSV, 3 outlet heater.

0. I removed the seat and covered the base with a thick towel to I could have better access and not get cut on the seat base plate.  

1. Access - This was the hardest part.  The kick panel is screwed into the floor, and the screws are buried into the carpet.  Hard to find and stainless so a magnet was no help.  I think there were 9-10 across the panel.  There was also one screw from the side panel area.  I had to pull back the carpet to get to it.   I also removed the carpeted cover on the inside of the walk-thru, but I don't think it was required. It is attached with buried screws also. The vent piece (two air hoses attach) was easy to remove - 4 screws into the kick panel. 

2. Once the panel was out of the way, I removed the air vent hoses.  They are on with zip-ties and there are tabs on the heater box to help keep them in place. I also removed the vent enclosure from the side walk-thru to get better access to the floor hole where the hoses run. 

3. I removed both water hoses from the heater assembly. 

4. I removed 4 screws from each end that hold the heater box to the mounting brackets.  The unit is at a little angle, so it wants to slide out / down.  This makes it hard to remove the screws and keep the box from falling out. 

5. With the box on the floor, I removed 4 screws on the cover plate so the core could slide out.  Pretty easy step.  I did have to cut a zip-tie on the power cord to give it some slack so the box would go to the floor. 

6. Installed new core, put cover plate on, and reinstalled the box into the brackets. 

7. Even though the core was what failed, I decided to replace the hoses while I was this far into the project.  

8. I punched holes into the side of the old and new hose about 1-2" back, and routed a wire thru them to let me connect the old and new.  Then I wrapped it all with duct tape to keep the wires tight and keep them from catching on something.  I connected the hoses at the front, and then pulled from the engine compartment while someone helped feed the hose into the floor opening.  This part was easier then I expected. 

9. Once both hoses were pulled, I connected them to the heater core and added the hose clamps.  

10. I reinstalled the air hoses and the fitting for the walk thru vent, then reinstalled the kick panel. I used new screws for the floor and side panels.  Last step was to reinstall the vent piece to the kick panel. 

11. The boat is winterized, so I won't be able to to a final test until spring. 

Attached file has a few pictures. 

 

[granddaddy55]

15 hours ago, Soon2BV said:

I had a leak at my heater, and didn't know if it was the core or a hose, so I got the materials and replaced both.  I took some photos to document some of the steps. 

Boat is a 2008 LSV, 3 outlet heater.

0. I removed the seat and covered the base with a thick towel to I could have better access and not get cut on the seat base plate.  

1. Access - This was the hardest part.  The kick panel is screwed into the floor, and the screws are buried into the carpet.  Hard to find and stainless so a magnet was no help.  I think there were 9-10 across the panel.  There was also one screw from the side panel area.  I had to pull back the carpet to get to it.   I also removed the carpeted cover on the inside of the walk-thru, but I don't think it was required. It is attached with buried screws also. The vent piece (two air hoses attach) was easy to remove - 4 screws into the kick panel. 

2. Once the panel was out of the way, I removed the air vent hoses.  They are on with zip-ties and there are tabs on the heater box to help keep them in place. I also removed the vent enclosure from the side walk-thru to get better access to the floor hole where the hoses run. 

3. I removed both water hoses from the heater assembly. 

4. I removed 4 screws from each end that hold the heater box to the mounting brackets.  The unit is at a little angle, so it wants to slide out / down.  This makes it hard to remove the screws and keep the box from falling out. 

5. With the box on the floor, I removed 4 screws on the cover plate so the core could slide out.  Pretty easy step.  I did have to cut a zip-tie on the power cord to give it some slack so the box would go to the floor. 

6. Installed new core, put cover plate on, and reinstalled the box into the brackets. 

7. Even though the core was what failed, I decided to replace the hoses while I was this far into the project.  

8. I punched holes into the side of the old and new hose about 1-2" back, and routed a wire thru them to let me connect the old and new.  Then I wrapped it all with duct tape to keep the wires tight and keep them from catching on something.  I connected the hoses at the front, and then pulled from the engine compartment while someone helped feed the hose into the floor opening.  This part was easier then I expected. 

9. Once both hoses were pulled, I connected them to the heater core and added the hose clamps.  

10. I reinstalled the air hoses and the fitting for the walk thru vent, then reinstalled the kick panel. I used new screws for the floor and side panels.  Last step was to reinstall the vent piece to the kick panel. 

11. The boat is winterized, so I won't be able to to a final test until spring. 

Attached file has a few pictures. 

 

add either a y pipe to fresh water intake rerouting the return heater line to it or splice in an aux circ pump on return heater line (wire to same heater circuit plus one relay ) . you will thank me later.

ypipe gives ridiculously improved heat at idle ( current set up has no heat at idle) and under way. aux circ pump gives you heat with motor off, better heat at idle and underway.  dont miss this opportunity

the relay is necessary cause high fan plus pump exceeds  15 amp breaker at start up

Edited November 5, 2023 by granddaddy55

[Soon2BV]

3 hours ago, granddaddy55 said:

add either a y pipe to fresh water intake rerouting the return heater line to it 

That is how it is set up