Should you drain antifreeze from block/manifolds?

[Zasher]

Hello all, new community member here from Indianapolis, IN. This is my first time winterizing my ‘03 Response LXi (EFI) myself after purchasing this summer.
 

I have studied YouTube videos and threads from this community thoroughly, but in my search I have yet to find anyone discussing draining anti-freeze from the block and manifolds after sucking the 5 gallons into them. Considering almost 50% of owners believe a drained engine block is better than a wet one and is all that is needed without the additional step of running antifreeze through it, wouldn’t it be safest to drain anti-freeze immediately after running it through? 
 

I’ll be using -50 degree rated marine antifreeze which can partially freeze in the single digits at full concentration. If for any reason the antifreeze is diluted by existing water in the block, why take chance of leaving it in before 1st freeze/winter? I think I would rather have a drained block/manifolds with peace of mind knowing there could be a trapped pocket of diluted antifreeze vs pure water sitting somewhere. 
 

I appreciate any responses of feedback. My planned winterization process:

1) heat up engine to 160 using fake-a-lake

2) kill engine and drain water from block and manifolds

3) re-start engine and release 5 gallons of antifreeze using Camco winterization kit 

4) repeat drain of engine block/manifolds. 

5) disconnect j hose from water pump to release fluid.

6) disconnect 2 heater hoses and blow out.

7) remove impeller

Edited October 27, 2023 by Zasher
Location

[Hemmy]

1 hour ago, Zasher said:

Hello all, new community member here from Indianapolis, IN. This is my first time winterizing my ‘03 Response LXi (EFI) myself after purchasing this summer.
 

I have studied YouTube videos and threads from this community thoroughly, but in my search I have yet to find anyone discussing draining anti-freeze from the block and manifolds after sucking the 5 gallons into them. Considering almost 50% of owners believe a drained engine block is better than a wet one and is all that is needed without the additional step of running antifreeze through it, wouldn’t it be safest to drain anti-freeze immediately after running it through? 
 

I’ll be using -50 degree rated marine antifreeze which can partially freeze in the single digits at full concentration. If for any reason the antifreeze is diluted by existing water in the block, why take chance of leaving it in before 1st freeze/winter? I think I would rather have a drained block/manifolds with peace of mind knowing there could be a trapped pocket of diluted antifreeze vs pure water sitting somewhere. 
 

I appreciate any responses of feedback. My planned winterization process:

1) heat up engine to 160 using fake-a-lake

2) kill engine and drain water from block and manifolds

3) re-start engine and release 5 gallons of antifreeze using Camco winterization kit 

4) repeat drain of engine block/manifolds. 

5) disconnect j hose from water pump to release fluid.

6) disconnect 2 heater hoses and blow out.

7) remove impeller

It is personal preference.  Some people don't even feel you need to put antifreeze in at all.  I drain the water and run antifreeze in and leave it in over winter.  This can also help keep things lubricated and keep things from drying out.  I also use -75 antifreeze and store my boat inside.  Sometimes heated indoors and sometimes not heated.  Never had any issues with anything freezing and I am just north of you.  A few degrees colder on average than you in the winter.

[cowwboy]

I just drain my block and exhaust crossover. The run 2 gallons of antifreeze through the water pump and coolers and let it drain out the water crossovers. 

But I am in Oklahoma. 

[oldjeep]

I drain everything then pour in 2 gallons of -60F (this year) through the heater until that is flowing into the circulating pump and then dump the rest into the upper part of the J hose.

Not worried about there being enough water left to freeze with the AF, but I especially like to make sure that the heater core is protected since it is nearly impossible to make it "dry"

[Zasher]

Thanks for the responses guys 1st freeze already hit Indiana today so fingers crossed. Glad I drained the manifolds and block before adding antifreeze because I still somehow was releasing a lot of water before my antifreeze finally appeared out of exhaust. 
 

Top heater hose was pure water still so dumped it out and filled it with antifreeze. 

[justgary]

1 hour ago, Zasher said:

1st freeze already hit Indiana today

Yeesh.  We went for a ski yesterday.  Water 74, air 85.  I didn't even ski this year until last week!

[oldjeep]

19 hours ago, justgary said:

Yeesh.  We went for a ski yesterday.  Water 74, air 85.  I didn't even ski this year until last week!

We got about 3 inches of snow a couple nights ago.  But should be back up near 50 by friday

[oldjeep]

21 hours ago, Zasher said:

Thanks for the responses guys 1st freeze already hit Indiana today so fingers crossed. Glad I drained the manifolds and block before adding antifreeze because I still somehow was releasing a lot of water before my antifreeze finally appeared out of exhaust. 
 

Top heater hose was pure water still so dumped it out and filled it with antifreeze. 

Yeah, that is why it is a really good idea to pull the top hose and just blow into it, forcing the water into the circ pump while your block plugs are out (For non closed cooling boats).  After I do that I our the antifreeze in with a funnel through the upper hose until I hear it coming into the circ pump.

[Soon2BV]

Also in Indiana.  I just hook up to a hose to run clean water through, and then remove just about every hose, plus the two block drains.  I blow air through the heater core to get out as much as I can.  I have never used anti-freeze.