Pouring in anti-freeze?

[waterskiercu]

Winterizing myself for the first time. I feel confident about draining all the water -- and yes, I'm sure some will say that's all I need to do. For peace of mind, I plan to add some anti-freeze. Seems like there's a faction of people that use the "pour" method rather than via the fake-a-lake/bucket/pump. My question is which hose do I pour the anti-freeze down and do I need the engine running while I'm doing it? I have a '01 Sportster with the stock vortec/carb engine. 

Thanks!!! 

[EchelonMike]

IMO, pouring it into a hose won't really have it go anywhere except maybe the lowest region of the block.  If you want to put in anti-freeze, do it the right way, which would be to fill a large bucket (say, 5 gal Home depot bucket).  Add a spout to the bottom of the bucket (or buy one of the 5 gal tubs made for this) fill the bucket full of anti-freeze, place it in an elevated position, like the swim platform, and run a hose from the bucket down to a "fake-a-lake".  Turn on the spout to start the flow of anti-freeze towards the fake a lake and have someone start the engine on the boat.  It will draw the antifreeze into the engine.  Shut the engine down when the bucket is empty.

I would like to recommend you store it dry.  I have for 20+ years.  I know they say the anti-freeze is enviro-friendly, but I hate seeing it pumped onto the ground...or worse...into a lake or river in the spring.  Store dry.  My $0.02.  Good luck!

 

 

[martinarcher]

I've built the current smallblock for my boat and when I started the build with the current block I was sure it was completely drained, aka all hoses removed from block and all drain plugs removed and cleaned out and the block hanging on the engine stand.  When I pulled the heads and rolled that block over I was shocked the amount of fluid that came out of the block.  I have always drained and uses the engine pump to pull antifreeze into the engine but that experience will further motivate me to keep doing the same thing.  It's something that saving a bit of time and effort could cost you a lot of time and money.  This is my opinion and others will say different who have been doing it their way for years which is fine.  There are also threads every spring that have stories of cracked blocks and "I always did it this way".  

 

[dalt1]

Need a poll for drain and dry or use antifreeze. Also need to know if any drain and dry have ever cracked? I drain only but it sets in garage that rarely freezes anyway.

[EchelonMike]

1 hour ago, dalt1 said:

Need a poll for drain and dry or use antifreeze. Also need to know if any drain and dry have ever cracked? I drain only but it sets in garage that rarely freezes anyway.

This will look like a Ford vs Chevy poll.  :-) 

If you drain properly, you're not going to have an issue.  I think the most common errors made during winterization are:

 

1.  Draining the block, but not running a piece of stiff wire or small screwdriver up into the hole to break up any scale or sediment...thus leaving a lot of water still in the engine.  I'd say every other year I have to break up some scale/dirt with a small screwdriver to get all the water out of the block.  If you remove the block plugs and water does not come out with a lot of force, you have some blockage that you need to take care of.

2.  Forgetting to drain the heater, which lives way up under the helm and holds a lot of raw water (at least on the older/non closed cooled boats).   

 

[dalt1]

11 hours ago, EchelonMike said:

This will look like a Ford vs Chevy poll.  :-) 

If you drain properly, you're not going to have an issue.  I think the most common errors made during winterization are:

 

1.  Draining the block, but not running a piece of stiff wire or small screwdriver up into the hole to break up any scale or sediment...thus leaving a lot of water still in the engine.  I'd say every other year I have to break up some scale/dirt with a small screwdriver to get all the water out of the block.  If you remove the block plugs and water does not come out with a lot of force, you have some blockage that you need to take care of.

2.  Forgetting to drain the heater, which lives way up under the helm and holds a lot of raw water (at least on the older/non closed cooled boats).   

 

Agree 100% just seems like it's about 50/50 on using antifreeze even though manufacturers don't recommend it. 

[electricjohn]

14 hours ago, martinarcher said:

I've built the current smallblock for my boat and when I started the build with the current block I was sure it was completely drained, aka all hoses removed from block and all drain plugs removed and cleaned out and the block hanging on the engine stand.  When I pulled the heads and rolled that block over I was shocked the amount of fluid that came out of the block.  I have always drained and uses the engine pump to pull antifreeze into the engine but that experience will further motivate me to keep doing the same thing.  It's something that saving a bit of time and effort could cost you a lot of time and money.  This is my opinion and others will say different who have been doing it their way for years which is fine.  There are also threads every spring that have stories of cracked blocks and "I always did it this way".  

 

This is why I force air through the cooling system with a shop vac after draining. Like I said in other threads this gets another quart or more of water out of the block.

If I decided to use antifreeze, I would just pour it in the bunghole that the coolant temperature sender is threaded into on the top of the intake.

[waterskiercu]

15 hours ago, EchelonMike said:

IMO, pouring it into a hose won't really have it go anywhere except maybe the lowest region of the block.  If you want to put in anti-freeze, do it the right way, which would be to fill a large bucket (say, 5 gal Home depot bucket).  Add a spout to the bottom of the bucket (or buy one of the 5 gal tubs made for this) fill the bucket full of anti-freeze, place it in an elevated position, like the swim platform, and run a hose from the bucket down to a "fake-a-lake".  Turn on the spout to start the flow of anti-freeze towards the fake a lake and have someone start the engine on the boat.  It will draw the antifreeze into the engine.  Shut the engine down when the bucket is empty.

I would like to recommend you store it dry.  I have for 20+ years.  I know they say the anti-freeze is enviro-friendly, but I hate seeing it pumped onto the ground...or worse...into a lake or river in the spring.  Store dry.  My $0.02.  Good luck!

 

 

Thanks to all for the advice. Think I may go this route with the 5 gallon bucket. Seems easy enough -- fill, open, start, suck, run, stop. 

On a side note, this topic is one of the true marvels of the internet. No fewer that 500 threads on Malibu Crew and an uncanny split on nearly every technique. 

[shawndoggy]

4 minutes ago, waterskiercu said:

Thanks to all for the advice. Think I may go this route with the 5 gallon bucket. Seems easy enough -- fill, open, start, suck, run, stop. 

On a side note, this topic is one of the true marvels of the internet. No fewer that 500 threads on Malibu Crew and an uncanny split on nearly every technique. 

I use this setup: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Winterizer-Winterize-Preparation-65501/dp/B0000AXQU2/ref=asc_df_B0000AXQU2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107671117&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=497344019386460332&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030895&hvtargid=pla-368334996878&th=1

I run on an alkaline lake which can create a lot of scale buildup, so my winterizing procedure is to first suck in 5 gallons of vinegar, then shut down the boat.  I let the vinegar sit in the raw water side of the cooling system for several hours while I wash and detail the boat.  Then I fire the boat back up on the hose (flushing the vinegar with fresh water) and get it warm and change the oil and trans fluid.  Then drain, then use the kit again to pull antifreeze through.  Some years I do the antifreeze some years I don't.  Knock on wood never had a problem either way.

[Hemmy]

38 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

I use this setup: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Winterizer-Winterize-Preparation-65501/dp/B0000AXQU2/ref=asc_df_B0000AXQU2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107671117&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=497344019386460332&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030895&hvtargid=pla-368334996878&th=1

I run on an alkaline lake which can create a lot of scale buildup, so my winterizing procedure is to first suck in 5 gallons of vinegar, then shut down the boat.  I let the vinegar sit in the raw water side of the cooling system for several hours while I wash and detail the boat.  Then I fire the boat back up on the hose (flushing the vinegar with fresh water) and get it warm and change the oil and trans fluid.  Then drain, then use the kit again to pull antifreeze through.  Some years I do the antifreeze some years I don't.  Knock on wood never had a problem either way.

Similarly, I use a pool pump and a 5 gallon bucket filled with antifreeze after I have drained all the water and changed the oil.

[formulaben]

For those that have FAE, I just put a cheap bilge pump into a Home Depot bucket and recirculate the fluid to the flush valve until I get to operating temp...might be overkill, but it allowed me to sleep good at night as it was in unheated storage at the time.

 

[oldjeep]

I pour it in the upper thermostat hose and in the upper heater hose after removing all the water from the system.  

[lake4life]

26 minutes ago, formulaben said:

For those that have FAE, I just put a cheap bilge pump into a Home Depot bucket and recirculate the fluid to the flush valve until I get to operating temp...might be overkill, but it allowed me to sleep good at night as it was in unheated storage at the time.

 

I've seen people do this but the only thing that gives me pause is that you are potentially mixing the antifreeze with any water still in the block and then recirculating that mixture of now  diluted antifreeze with a potentially lesser freeze point.  Probably not enough water to dilute it to any dangerous level though if you already drained the engine.  Just a thought from my paranoid brain though and not being negative about your methods - I know much of the "extra mile" stuff any of us do is probably just fine and only serves to get to our own version of peace of mind.  

Edited October 13, 2023 by lake4life

[solorex]

16 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

I pour it in the upper thermostat hose and in the upper heater hose after removing all the water from the system.  

this is what I do.  Once I see antifreeze start coming out the lower drain holes, i always figure there is enough antifreeze in the block.  My boat sits outside (under cover) and have never had a problem.

[formulaben]

2 minutes ago, lake4life said:

I've seen people do this but the only thing that gives me pause is that you are potentially mixing the antifreeze with any water still in the block and then recirculating that mixture of now  diluted antifreeze with a potentially lesser freeze point.  Probably not enough water to dilute it to any dangerous level though if you already drained the engine.

You are correct.  I make the effort to drain as much water as possible, and then use -75 rated antifreeze.  Even if diluted it should be fine for -15 degrees which is as bad as it gets here, and not often.

[oldjeep]

I buy the -100F stuff, mostly because it doesn't cost much more than the -60F stuff and it gives me a little more margin for screw up if there is actually water somewhere

[Soon2BV]

On 10/13/2023 at 10:46 AM, waterskiercu said:

On a side note, this topic is one of the true marvels of the internet. No fewer that 500 threads on Malibu Crew and an uncanny split on nearly every technique. 

That just means 1/2 of the people are wrong