Add Subwoofer 2019 22 LSV

[Fritzman21]

Hello Malibu Crew!

I’m looking for help here, I have a 2019 Malibu 22 LSV with no subwoofer option. I have looked around under the console and can see pos/neg wires where the sub would be if I installed one.  I have seen the other forms and I think to myself that there must be an easier way. Would anyone advise against getting an integrated subwoofer made for cars and stick it in the same spot that the subwoofer should be. I’m not entirely sure if it gets wet down there, But I feel like could be worth a shot. I know with the integrated subwoofers that it won’t be as powerful as having a custom box. With that being said, I think any low frequency would make a massive difference within this boat. 
 

Last question, would it be absolutely necessary to cut a hole in the fiberglass where your feet go in the main fuselage of the boat. In sedans for example, subwoofers are stuck in the truck and completely sealed. Wondering if it would detract that much from the sound.

If anyone has installed an active automotive subwoofer in their boat, and didn’t have the subwoofer console open to begin with, please let me know. And that goes for all years as well.

Edited May 10, 2023 by Fritzman21

[Brandonloos21]

You’ll feel the bass, but would be better if you had a hole under the helm. The wires are part of the standard wiring harness. Cheaper to make all the same harnesses rather than make each boat a one off custom. 
 

As for the car sub, sure it’ll work. Boats are different than cars due to open air, so you’ll want something bigger and able to deliver around 500 or more watts rms I’d assume.

If you  don’t want to cut a hole, you can also fit a nice beefy sub, or 2 in the observers compartment. 
 

You’ll have 2 options.
 

A. Is to get a plug made for your cabin plug (has sub signal) and replace the cabin amp (find an amp that can power both cabin soeakers) OR add 2 amps one for cabin speakers and one for sub (this all depends on power sub requires)

 

B. Get an add a sub cable that goes in between the cabin amp and harness, and it’ll y out the signal for subwoofer amp. 
 

I recommend A because you’re upgrading cabin amp to get more out of the cabin speakers as well. 

Edited May 10, 2023 by Brandonloos21

[MLA]

Are you referring to a self-powered woofer or just a woofer in a carpet covered MDF enclosure? While the audio cables are there for the woofer, a self-powered would need power cables run and circuit protection. A carpet covered MDF enclosure will not last long in the marine environment. 

Neither will perform well, unless their a vent under the helm, like the OEM setup. 

[Fritzman21]

2 hours ago, Brandonloos21 said:

You’ll feel the bass, but would be better if you had a hole under the helm. The wires are part of the standard wiring harness. Cheaper to make all the same harnesses rather than make each boat a one off custom. 
 

As for the car sub, sure it’ll work. Boats are different than cars due to open air, so you’ll want something bigger and able to deliver around 500 or more watts rms I’d assume.

If you  don’t want to cut a hole, you can also fit a nice beefy sub, or 2 in the observers compartment. 
 

You’ll have 2 options.
 

A. Is to get a plug made for your cabin plug (has sub signal) and replace the cabin amp (find an amp that can power both cabin soeakers) OR add 2 amps one for cabin speakers and one for sub (this all depends on power sub requires)

 

B. Get an add a sub cable that goes in between the cabin amp and harness, and it’ll y out the signal for subwoofer amp. 
 

I recommend A because you’re upgrading cabin amp to get more out of the cabin speakers as well. 

Appreciate the advice here. So that hanging pos/neg cable under the console is live? I’ve installed a few active subwoofers in my life in cars. Confirming once I have that hooked to power all I’d need would be to get that hanging pos/neg cable into the sub?

I fully agree with your recommendation as the correct thing to do. If I get a mono-amp, do I have to extend the wire under the console to the amps and then back to the sub?

Honestly cutting a hole in the boat is the right way to go about this but it terrifies me. Any templates out there?

[Fritzman21]

2 hours ago, MLA said:

Are you referring to a self-powered woofer or just a woofer in a carpet covered MDF enclosure? While the audio cables are there for the woofer, a self-powered would need power cables run and circuit protection. A carpet covered MDF enclosure will not last long in the marine environment. 

Neither will perform well, unless their a vent under the helm, like the OEM setup. 

Self-Powered, active, same thing I believe just means there is an integrated amp. Definitely not a carpet enclosure - thank you for that clarification - there are some nice hard plastic enclosure subs for cars. They’re very easy to set up and kits come with integrated fuses. I’m going for prioritizing ease here, not necessarily the optimal. If I were going optimal I would build custom box with mega mono amp and cut the hole. That doesn’t seem like it’s worth the time/effort for me. Have no interest in paying someone to do it for me. 
 

Cutting a hole is absolutely the correct way to do this, but I’m not too excited about that thought. 
 

Let’s say I do go with active sub, I know other brands put their subs under the “passenger” side storage. Would that be better than putting in driver console with zero hole?

Thanks

[MLA]

58 minutes ago, Fritzman21 said:

kits come with integrated fuses

Just keep in mind, that a car installation kit is likely to have a short 2-3 ft ground. This would not work on a boat, unless the enclosure was next to the batteries. 

59 minutes ago, Fritzman21 said:

Would that be better than putting in driver console with zero hole?

Nope, same issue. Poor radiation without a vent. 

[Brandonloos21]

6 hours ago, Fritzman21 said:

Appreciate the advice here. So that hanging pos/neg cable under the console is live? I’ve installed a few active subwoofers in my life in cars. Confirming once I have that hooked to power all I’d need would be to get that hanging pos/neg cable into the sub?

I fully agree with your recommendation as the correct thing to do. If I get a mono-amp, do I have to extend the wire under the console to the amps and then back to the sub?

Honestly cutting a hole in the boat is the right way to go about this but it terrifies me. Any templates out there?

Those are not connected to anything. They run back under your observers compartment to a plug that isn’t connected to anything. If you ordered your boat with a sub, it would have had a 6ch amp and ch 5-6 would have been the spot that that plug would have went to power the sub. 

If you get a mono amp, just cut the other end of that plus off and run the wire into the amp and the other ends to the sub. Probably 14ga or so so only would recommend this for subwoofers 600 and less watts. If higher wattage just run a new run of 12ga.

[Fritzman21]

Are there any wiring diagrams out there? Or detailed pictures? Seems like the sub is pre plumbed for an addition. 
 

@MLA So the JL audio systems in Nautiques that stick both subs in their storage bays are poorly engineered? That makes some sense. Probably makes a better sound there than surrounded by the fiberglass under the driver. 

[MLA]

53 minutes ago, Fritzman21 said:

 So the JL audio systems in Nautiques that stick both subs in their storage bays are poorly engineered? That makes some sense. Probably makes a better sound there than surrounded by the fiberglass under the driver. 

Heck, lets go all the way back to the 2000's, when it was a Clarion woofer in a fiberglass enclosure bolted to the amp wall in the port locker. Its less then ideal to close any woofer in an insulated locker. So when the forces this placement, its always best to vent the locker. This would be true in the port locker of your current boat, whether its the storage locker or the unvented helm cavity. 

[Blaster2]

I'm trying to find someone making cables for the sub splitter to add another sub, can someone let me know who is still making adapter cables.