Getting a New-to-Me 2021 23 MXZ Ready for Summer

[OtherBoatisaCessna]

Hi everyone - we bought a new-to-us 2021 23 MXZ over the winter.  It's finally starting to warm up in our area and I wanted to see if I can crowdsource some help in figuring out what I need to do to it or items I should check to get it ready to go for the summer.  I feel a little adrift here as I'm not going to get much support from our local dealer (they're mad at me because I bought it out-of-market, tbh) and I'm coming from an old, early-2000s Mastercraft, so there is a lot new here.  Can you help me think through what I need to do to get ready, ranging from literally something as stupid as where the plugs are to more complicated things like running the engine at home or finding impellors?  At this risk of trying to tackle too much in a single post, here are some things that are on my mind: 

1)  Getting Ready for Summer

• The boat was (somewhat poorly - long story) winterized prior to my receiving it.  Fortunately, the important things were done (drained and circulated with antifreeze).  To "summerize", I am mostly planning to replace the 4 blue drain plugs and sea-strainer.  What else needs to be done?  
• Planning to re-install rear locker bags, doublecheck other connections if I can access them.  
• I'd like to test run the boat at home.  What's the procedure for this?  I do have the hose-bib port on the rear, do I just plug in the hose, turn on the water, and fire it up?  What all can be tested in the driveway (i.e. surf gates, etc)? 
• I'm planning on removing and charging the batteries.  I think I'm set up to charge while they're in place, but have no electrical where the boat is stored (:facepalm:).  
• Okay, I'm honestly embarrassed to ask this, but it's so critical and the consequences so high that I'm going to go ahead and do so: can we just confirm the 23MXZ has two plugs, one in the center and one in the rear?  Every other boat I've ever owned only had one, and I just don't want to sink it on my first outing haha!  I believe I have the "T" handle for the center plug, but I don't think I have the rear plug, can I just buy any old generic or do you have a recommendation? 
• Any other "summerization" tasks I should remember?

 

2) General Questions

• I've watched some YouTube videos on replacing the impellor.  Seems simple enough.  But what impellor part number is appropriate for an M6 engine, and where should I buy them?  Some of those videos have recommended checking the cooler for rubber bitsf from the old impellor, is that just as simple as removing that hose, checking for visible bits, and removing them?
• What other maintenance items are easy to do at home?  I prefer not to be dependent on the dealer; it's often just easier and less time consuming to do these things yourself instead to trailering he boat somewhere and being dependent on their schedules.  I'd like to change my own oil at a minimum, but can't find any good documentation on how to do this for an M6 engine - any ideas?

Thanks a ton in advance

[klntime]

you are on the right track - pretty much YES to your getting ready for summer Q's

-replace plugs, sea-strainer, yes center T handle and the plug at transom.

- for wedge and surfgates I believe you need to be moving for those to deploy.  Could have someone spin paddle wheel if equipped to trick system, or in your secondary screen you should be able to go into system setting and diagnostics and test them that way.

-yes, just connect hose, turn on and start boat - obviously after engine plugs have been re-installed

impellor - just go a site like Bakes Online.  easy to find part.  When you take the old impellor out if no pieces/fins/blades are missing you are all good.  If pieces are missing yes they will most likely end up in the heat exchanger.   

Oil change - super easy.  find oil drain line, use oil vaccuum pump extractor (like a Mityvac or something similar works well)  best if boat is warmed up, oil filter is easy, access at back of engine, easy to get to. (just cartridge style) again search Bakes Online for part

simple maintenance at home, like you mentioned - oil, filter, impellor, winterize, trans fluid change etc.   I'm pretty sure there are videos on youtube for oil change if needed.  If not specific to M6 search for M5 - will be same basically.  

congrats on the new boat

[Woodski]

If you have as your name indicates, a Cessna, can we assume you will apply the same diligence to your boat as you do with the plane:-)?  Boats don't fall out of the sky, but they can sink, LOL.

-  Read, find or procure a set of manuals (boat, engine) which will really help in familiarizing yourself with your new toy.  They used to be on this site, hopefully you can find them on the Malibu site.

- a fake-a-lake, flush Pro or similar will be your source to connect garden hose water to run the boat in the driveway, the connections may/should be there, the manual would detail the how to's (my older boat simply uses the fake-a-lake method.

- better to ask than panic when water is rushing in the bilge, yes, most if not all have 2 plugs, one in the bilge with a T handle access from inside and one at the transom.  Plugs are pretty much universal across all brands and available at any marine supply house if missing.

- if new to you, if mine, I would do an oil and filter change, new impeller and probably tune up (at least spark plugs and probably fuel filter).  I would also add some fresh fuel, maybe not a full tank in case you have to tow it somewhere, but once your happy it runs, fill the tank.   Before I launch it, I would do a nut & bolt check, for sure check coupler bolts & prop nut and cotter key.

[ORsurfer]

Great thread - was just searching for it yesterday. A summerize/de-win on the newer motors is a great add. 

One note on the above - I dug around a little because I was going to ask about running the boat using the hose-bib on rear transom (haven't done it and like OP didn't want to F anything up). Manual states a really important part (that I had forgotten when running it through in my head) - closing and re-opening the raw water intake: 

Before beginning this procedure, be sure the raw water pick-up under the boat is CLOSED. If it is not and the boat is in water, raw water will become mixed with the clean water and will diminish the cleaning process. If the boat is out of water, air may become mixed with the clean water and the engine can overheat, causing damage not covered under warranty. Open the fixture by twisting the cap counterclockwise. The cap is attached to the fixture by a chain. Attach a garden hose with a fresh-water source (without water running) to the fixture. When it is secured, fully turn on the hose (less water flow will be inadequate to flush the system, and could result in damage to the system that is not covered under warranty). Turn the engine ON to move water through the system. At no time should you ever exceed 1,100 rpm. The water flow is insufficient to cool the engine via the flush if the rpm exceeds 1,100... After running clean water through the system as prescribed, turn the engine OFF. Turn off the water source for the hose. Disconnect the hose and reinstall the cap securely on the flush kit connector at the transom. If the cap is not secure, air will be introduced into the system that will adversely affect the boat’s cooling system. Before boating again, be sure the raw water pick-up is opened.

Only other task I'd add to the above is a wash and wax and a trailer check. Confirm everything tight and maintained, confirm brake fluid level, and integrity of all connection points.  

[granddaddy55]

do not close raw water intake ever!!!!!! most will not be flushing a boat in fresh water through the transom flush while boat sitting in that fresh water , that's usually something for your driveway sitting on trailer and closing it not necessary

Edited April 26, 2023 by granddaddy55

[ahopkins22LSV]

2 hours ago, granddaddy55 said:

do not close raw water intake ever!!!!!! most will not be flushing a boat in fresh water through the transom flush while boat sitting in that fresh water , that's usually something for your driveway sitting on trailer and closing it not necessary

Why would you not? If using the transom hose connection you are running the risk of sucking in air or not having full flow of water to the engine? The manual clearly states to close it. I would close it. 

[OtherBoatisaCessna]

@klntimeThanks for your post - a question about impellors below.  

@Woodski Yes, but if only Malibus had POHs... the Malibu manual is terrible!  It's so filled with typos it's embarrassing and I really can't find that much detail on the topics I'd really like.  For instance... 

1)  Regarding replacement impellors, how do you know which one to buy?  It seems there's three different possibilities of replacement impellors depending on the water pump in the boat (Sherwood or Johnson).  The manual states that it is very difficult to see the water pump and I keep the boat 30 minutes away so I haven't been out there to check to see if I can figure it out.  Can I look it up by HIN number or something?  I do believe by boat model year is right on the cut-off (2021) between when they changed water pumps so it might not be super straightforward. 

2)  Regarding the flush kit, the manual is pretty clear that the raw water inlet should be closed if out of the water, but doesn't make any mention of where to find or close it?  I'm guessing this would be obvious if the boat were in front of me, but... can anyone help on this?

[granddaddy55]

2 hours ago, ahopkins22LSV said:

Why would you not? If using the transom hose connection you are running the risk of sucking in air or not having full flow of water to the engine? The manual clearly states to close it. I would close it. 

never have, not once, to me its just a risk you will leave it closed and the manual quoted seems to indicate it was for the purpose of flushing a boat sitting in the water 

[granddaddy55]

2 hours ago, OtherBoatisaCessna said:

@klntimeThanks for your post - a question about impellors below.  

@Woodski Yes, but if only Malibus had POHs... the Malibu manual is terrible!  It's so filled with typos it's embarrassing and I really can't find that much detail on the topics I'd really like.  For instance... 

1)  Regarding replacement impellors, how do you know which one to buy?  It seems there's three different possibilities of replacement impellors depending on the water pump in the boat (Sherwood or Johnson).  The manual states that it is very difficult to see the water pump and I keep the boat 30 minutes away so I haven't been out there to check to see if I can figure it out.  Can I look it up by HIN number or something?  I do believe by boat model year is right on the cut-off (2021) between when they changed water pumps so it might not be super straightforward. 

2)  Regarding the flush kit, the manual is pretty clear that the raw water inlet should be closed if out of the water, but doesn't make any mention of where to find or close it?  I'm guessing this would be obvious if the boat were in front of me, but... can anyone help on this?

look to left of transmission and vdrive for valve, never closed it not one time in 9 years  of using and having one, very smart reading the manual though!!

Edited April 26, 2023 by granddaddy55

[ahopkins22LSV]

14 minutes ago, granddaddy55 said:

never have, not once, to me its just a risk you will leave it closed and the manual quoted seems to indicate it was for the purpose of flushing a boat sitting in the water 

“If the boat is out of water, air may become mixed with the clean water and the engine can overheat, causing damage not covered under warranty.”

Verbiage straight from the manual, which was in the above post. It is the same concept and potential issue of not having a good seal of the fake lake to the hull. There is more than one style transom flush option and it will depend on how it is plumbed. From my memory you never owned a boat with the factory Malibu engines and flush connection. I’d error on the side of closing the valve.

[Hemmy]

40 minutes ago, ahopkins22LSV said:

“If the boat is out of water, air may become mixed with the clean water and the engine can overheat, causing damage not covered under warranty.”

Verbiage straight from the manual, which was in the above post. It is the same concept and potential issue of not having a good seal of the fake lake to the hull. There is more than one style transom flush option and it will depend on how it is plumbed. From my memory you never owned a boat with the factory Malibu engines and flush connection. I’d error on the side of closing the valve.

I am with you on this.  I ran water to the engine with the hose and forgot to close the intake valve.  I could be wrong, but I think water went back out that intake meaning it did not make it to the engine and back out the exhaust like it should.  With my boat, my hose connection is through the sea strainer, but I would think regardless where your hose connection is, the intake should be closed.
I also close mine in the winter just to prevent any entrance points for potential varmints.  Every year when I put the boat back in the water I go through a checklist to make sure plugs are in and also that valve is open.  I even look at the sea strainer as soon as I fire it up in the lake to make sure water is coming in through it.

[klntime]

5 hours ago, OtherBoatisaCessna said:

@klntimeThanks for your post - a question about impellors below.  

@Woodski Yes, but if only Malibus had POHs... the Malibu manual is terrible!  It's so filled with typos it's embarrassing and I really can't find that much detail on the topics I'd really like.  For instance... 

1)  Regarding replacement impellors, how do you know which one to buy?  It seems there's three different possibilities of replacement impellors depending on the water pump in the boat (Sherwood or Johnson).  The manual states that it is very difficult to see the water pump and I keep the boat 30 minutes away so I haven't been out there to check to see if I can figure it out.  Can I look it up by HIN number or something?  I do believe by boat model year is right on the cut-off (2021) between when they changed water pumps so it might not be super straightforward. 

2)  Regarding the flush kit, the manual is pretty clear that the raw water inlet should be closed if out of the water, but doesn't make any mention of where to find or close it?  I'm guessing this would be obvious if the boat were in front of me, but... can anyone help on this?

yes, if in the driveway i would close the raw water inlet.  Varies on boats but a good chance yours is in the back/transom with sea-strainer.  takes 2 seconds to close valve.  If in a different local and unsure you could always find the raw water pick up under the boat and follow the hose.

i'm sure there is a visual way to tell the two pumps apart - I just don't remember.  When you open the pump up you can easily tell - the sherwood is a keyed design and the johnson i would call more splined or grooved.  For what it's worth I have a 2021 Malibu and it has a sherwood.  But like you mentioned I think either might of been used around that time. 

[OtherBoatisaCessna]

@klntime thanks for that, kinda lame you have to pull the impeller to figure it out but not the end of the world.  

[amartin]

I have no first hand knowledge on this, but could a dealer sell you the right impeller off of the HID? Buy the first one from a dealer and then you know what you are dealing with moving forward.

[OtherBoatisaCessna]

I just placed an order for a Sherwood and a Johnson impellor, I’ll figure it out when the current one goes, I guess.  Bakes is getting a donation for the other one, I suppose!

Okay… what else…?   Part of where this is coming from is I’m supposed to take this more or less brand new boat on a five day camping trip over Memorial Day to a spot that is not going to have any chance of service.  New anythings make me a little nervous until they’ve proven themselves mechanically, so I’m trying to be diligent about what I can do now and prepare some knowledge and tools/parts to bring with me.  I’ll be able to put the boat on the water a few times before the trip, so hopefully we can shake it down, but still… lotta family would be disappointed to make the effort to get there and then be stranded for the fun!  Thanks again.

[NorCalSurfer]

Make sure the fuel gauge works! Running out of fuel is a huge problem. I could give you examples but I don’t have enough time. If the gauge is off replace immediately. 
 

Also make sure the alternator wires are good. 

[mxmark4]

Renew  your boat US membership too so if you get stranded you are good for a tow. They will respond via app, vhf radio or call in. Having had to use it before its a good idea especially for way out of the way places. 

[klntime]

18 hours ago, OtherBoatisaCessna said:

I just placed an order for a Sherwood and a Johnson impellor, I’ll figure it out when the current one goes, I guess.  Bakes is getting a donation for the other one, I suppose!

Okay… what else…?   Part of where this is coming from is I’m supposed to take this more or less brand new boat on a five day camping trip over Memorial Day to a spot that is not going to have any chance of service.  New anythings make me a little nervous until they’ve proven themselves mechanically, so I’m trying to be diligent about what I can do now and prepare some knowledge and tools/parts to bring with me.  I’ll be able to put the boat on the water a few times before the trip, so hopefully we can shake it down, but still… lotta family would be disappointed to make the effort to get there and then be stranded for the fun!  Thanks again.

Just fyi or a tip:  there's a good chance the impellor you are replacing might still be in good shape.   You might consider keeping the old one (assuming good condition) in your boat as a back-up in-case anything were to go wrong on your trip.  

some simple tools to have - let's start with impellor - i like to keep 90 degree bent needle nose pliers to grap old impellor.  Also haveing a set of thin/flat Ratcheting Wrench Set, makes getting the impeller housing bolts off easier.  I also cary a couple extra impellor housing bolts (sometimes they can be easy to drop in bilge- hard to find if this happens)

other general tools, screw drivers, channel lock pliers, adjustable crescent type wrench, maybe a knife for anything you need to cut or gets tangled on prop.  I like to keep some zip ties around.  I will keep an extra Quart of oil on boat (never needed it-makes me feel good though   

a simple socket set can come in handy - but you can also make the above work with most minor jobs

sometimes a good light can be handy, kinda dark in some of the engine compartment ( although in a pinch cell phone light usually works fine)

oh, if i was on a 5 day trip I would have a spare prop and puller just in case - wouldn't want a bent prop to ruin trip

[klntime]

one last thing, don't stress too much, enjoy the trip!  The nice thing about buying a 2021 is it's still really new but the majority of the kinks/issues have likely been worked out.  

The only other thing i might suggest testing if you plan on surfing or wakeboarding on your trip is make sure all the ballast pumps are working.   I'm sure they are fine, easy to test though, so why not......

[amartin]

1 hour ago, klntime said:

some simple tools to have - let's start with impellor - i like to keep 90 degree bent needle nose pliers to grap old impellor.  Also haveing a set of thin/flat Ratcheting Wrench Set, makes getting the impeller housing bolts off easier.  I also cary a couple extra impellor housing bolts (sometimes they can be easy to drop in bilge- hard to find if this happens)

 except I keep 2 x small (cheap HF) needle nose vice grips in the boat for the impeller.  Might be more likely to damage the impeller coming out, but much easier to grip / hold / and pull on.

[Woodski]

Don’t skip trailer maintenance, tires & bearings can be failure prone and that would put a crimp in your vacation.

[OtherBoatisaCessna]

Speaking of trailers…

Well, I put the new boat on the water yesterday and to my great amazement, it started right up and everything worked perfectly and exactly as and advertised.  Amazing!  Perhaps my expectations are too low lol.  
 

There was one problem however, and that was with the trailer.  Unloaded, the trailer brakes were locking up when in reverse.  But the thing that’s weird about that is that this trailer *does not* have surge brakes - they’re electric-over-hydraulic.  With the boat loaded, no problems whatsoever.  
 

I was in the boat waiting to load it while my wife retrieved the truck/trailer so I didn’t experience this first-hand, but the electric trailer brakes make a buzzing sound when applied.  She said that as soon as she started moving in reverse, they’d buzz really loud and lock up.  Unplugging the trailer from the tow vehicle allowed the unloaded trailer to be backed up without problem.  
 

I’m familiar with backing problems with surge brakes, but does this ring a bell for anyone?

[obski]

5 hours ago, OtherBoatisaCessna said:

Speaking of trailers…

Well, I put the new boat on the water yesterday and to my great amazement, it started right up and everything worked perfectly and exactly as and advertised.  Amazing!  Perhaps my expectations are too low lol.  
 

There was one problem however, and that was with the trailer.  Unloaded, the trailer brakes were locking up when in reverse.  But the thing that’s weird about that is that this trailer *does not* have surge brakes - they’re electric-over-hydraulic.  With the boat loaded, no problems whatsoever.  
 

I was in the boat waiting to load it while my wife retrieved the truck/trailer so I didn’t experience this first-hand, but the electric trailer brakes make a buzzing sound when applied.  She said that as soon as she started moving in reverse, they’d buzz really loud and lock up.  Unplugging the trailer from the tow vehicle allowed the unloaded trailer to be backed up without problem.  
 

I’m familiar with backing problems with surge brakes, but does this ring a bell for anyone?

Do you have a Ford tow vehicle? The problem is with the electrical connection. The trailer should have a small metal insert to prevent it from braking on backing up.

[hethj7]

1 hour ago, obski said:

Do you have a Ford tow vehicle? The problem is with the electrical connection. The trailer should have a small metal insert to prevent it from braking on backing up.

I think that insert for lockout is only if you have surge brakes.  

[obski]

2 hours ago, hethj7 said:

I think that insert for lockout is only if you have surge brakes.  

Ahh, I believe that is correct