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4 Skar 6.5" tower speakers, 2 8" boat and 2 6" boat which Skar amp to run them? I also have a RF Power T3002.


Smokedvw

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Hi,

I don't plan to get a sub and we currently have a set of 8" Skar speakers and a set of 6" pioneer dash speakers in the boat. 

  • The 8's were bridged on a RF Punch 400x4 but it got some water in it and is now flashing orange on the LED and I cant figure out how to fix it. 
  • The dash speakers were just off the desk.

I have another 4 x 6.5" Skar marine speakers (160 RMS) I'm putting in a dual can enclosures for the tower.  

I was thinking to still run the dash speakers off the deck but trying to figure out how to power the others.

Or is there another Skar amp I should buy?

Thanks for the help 

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13 hours ago, Smokedvw said:

RF Power T3002 2 channel car amp that I can run down to 1 ohm and I thought of running the 4 towers off that at 1 ohm or run the 2 8's bridged at 2 ohm?

a pair of 4 ohm speakers p/chnl can never be a 1 ohm load. There is no advantage to wiring two full-range speakers together and then bridge them on a 2 chnl amp. 

 

As to choosing an amp, id first look for one that was not designed and built with 20th century tech. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/24/2023 at 7:56 AM, MLA said:

a pair of 4 ohm speakers p/chnl can never be a 1 ohm load. There is no advantage to wiring two full-range speakers together and then bridge them on a 2 chnl amp. 

 

As to choosing an amp, id first look for one that was not designed and built with 20th century tech. 

He said (4) 6.5" towers that are each 4ohm. They would infact be 1ohm all paralled.. 

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56 minutes ago, Jbcain said:

He said (4) 6.5" towers that are each 4ohm. They would infact be 1ohm all paralled.. 

Yes, four 4 ohm speakers in parallel does = 1 ohm. So whats your plan then? Bridge a 1 ohm load on 2 chnls? That would mean each chnl is saddled with a 0.5 ohm load. 

Two speakers in parallel p/chnl for a 2 ohm load p/chnl is the best he's going to get. 

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12 hours ago, MLA said:

Yes, four 4 ohm speakers in parallel does = 1 ohm. So whats your plan then? Bridge a 1 ohm load on 2 chnls? That would mean each chnl is saddled with a 0.5 ohm load. 

Two speakers in parallel p/chnl for a 2 ohm load p/chnl is the best he's going to get. 

That amp says it can take 1ohm unbridged but conveniently doesn't provide output at 1ohm. Not that i'd do or recommend it, but if that's true then ch1 can be 1ohm all 4 6.5s paralleled. Ch2 can be the 8s paralleled @ 20hm, but he never told us their ohm rating, assuming 4ohm each.

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5 hours ago, Jbcain said:

but if that's true then ch1 can be 1ohm all 4 6.5s paralleled. Ch2 can be the 8s paralleled @ 20hm,

But why? :dontknow: How in the world would you even tune that setup? This is like trying to find the answer on how to create a stereo disaster. 

To quote the great poet Ian Malcolm "Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether they could, they didn't stop to think if they should." 

So lets look at this from a wattage output perspective. The amp is 100W x 2 @ ohm. So driving all four 6.5 with each chnl at 2 ohm, each speaker nets 50W rms. In your scenario with 4 at 1 ohm on one chnls, lets say its 150W, since 2 ohm bridged is 300W. So now, each speaker is at 37.5W rms. 

Edited by MLA
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2 hours ago, MLA said:

But why? :dontknow: How in the world would you even tune that setup? This is like trying to find the answer on how to create a stereo disaster. 

To quote the great poet Ian Malcolm "Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether they could, they didn't stop to think if they should." 

So lets look at this from a wattage output perspective. The amp is 100W x 2 @ ohm. So driving all four 6.5 with each chnl at 2 ohm, each speaker nets 50W rms. In your scenario with 4 at 1 ohm on one chnls, lets say its 150W, since 2 ohm bridged is 300W. So now, each speaker is at 37.5W rms. 

You quoted my response out of context by removing parts. I clearly said " Not that i'd do or recommend it"


 

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59 minutes ago, Jbcain said:

You quoted my response out of context by removing parts. I clearly said " Not that i'd do or recommend it"


 

Then why are you trying to solve putting  a round peg in a square hole? 

Heck, in your first post in which you quoted me, you either didnt get or ignored what I posted. I explained to the OP that with a 2 chnl amp and four 4 ohm speaker, he would never get a 1 ohm load p/chnl. Yet you tried to prove me wrong by coming up with some wild configuration of 1 ohm on one chnls using 4 speakers and 2 ohm on the other chnl using 2 speakers.  

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4 minutes ago, MLA said:

Then why are you trying to solve putting  a round peg in a square hole? 

Heck, in your first post in which you quoted me, you either didnt get or ignored what I posted. I explained to the OP that with a 2 chnl amp and four 4 ohm speaker, he would never get a 1 ohm load p/chnl. Yet you tried to prove me wrong by coming up with some wild configuration of 1 ohm on one chnls using 4 speakers and 2 ohm on the other chnl using 2 speakers.  

Yes, I misread your post.

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  • 3 weeks later...

@mla

sorry I was on vacation and never got back to this.

Ok so it sounds like I should just leave my old RF amp alone and not hookup the dash speakers which is fine.  If I were to go with the Skar 150x4, I assume the best I can do is put each set of towers in parallel (2 speakers x 4 ohm) for a 2ohm load on one channel for left and right.  Then take the 2 8's and see if I can put those in parallel for 2 ohms and then bridge that channel so it would 500 x 1 @2 ohm on the lower channel.

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Sorry that things got off in the seeds with the attempt to solve an insolvable scenario. 

You have 4 tower speakers and a pair of dual pods

you have a 2 chnl amp. 

Done, period, end of story. This is your tower setup. It does not get any better with this equipment. One pair in parallel = 2 ohm on one chnl, same for the 2nd chnl. 

You have a pair of 6.5" under-windshield speakers and a pair of 8" aft-cabin speakers.

You have a 4 chnl amp.

One speakers per chnl, thats it. Done! No why to make any amp or amp chnl put out any more wattage. No magic, no vodoo, nothing. 

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Besides trying to make old stuff work, you really need a sub.  Without it, you are simply missing a frequency of sound in your music, and it will feel empty and lifeless as a result.  Even more so on a boat than in a vehicle.

I'd recommend doing something better for the towers as well.  It sounds like budget is a real issue, so perhaps a pair of ICON 8's someone is selling because they upgraded.  Find some sales/deals/used and go from there.  You don't have to break the bank to have a decent sounding setup.

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3 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

Besides trying to make old stuff work, you really need a sub.  Without it, you are simply missing a frequency of sound in your music, and it will feel empty and lifeless as a result.  Even more so on a boat than in a vehicle.

I'd recommend doing something better for the towers as well.  It sounds like budget is a real issue, so perhaps a pair of ICON 8's someone is selling because they upgraded.  Find some sales/deals/used and go from there.  You don't have to break the bank to have a decent sounding setup.

Sadly last year I did find a used set for $450, came and 2 of the dual 6's were broken in the canisters, I should have just returned the entire thing but thought I would be able to salvage it by using some Skar 6's I had sitting around.   I then needed to get the can's machined to even fit the skar since they were larger than the others and I had to buy clamps... all in all a total waste of $$$.    

I can't even get my stereo loud 95% of the time I use the boat as I have a 2 year old and 4 year old so this is really hoping to be able to hear music while I ride vs in the boat so I can hear them and the kids can sit in the front of the boat.

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