M6DI Alternator Upgrade

[Brandonloos21]

Has anyone upgraded their alternator on an m6di? (2022 23 LSV here). 
 

I am looking at the balmar site, and do not know which model to choose (specifically the mounting style/option). In addition, will 170a AND 250a work? Or only 170?

 

https://balmar.net/xt-series-alternators-for-wake-boarding/

[shawndoggy]

why not just call Balmar and ask?

[Brandonloos21]

31 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

why not just call Balmar and ask?

I did ask, they were unsure and just referred me to the above (which I had already explored) 

[rennis]

I really don't know, maybe call Bakes?  

I opted for the high output alternator on my boat, it seems to keep up pretty well with the electrical demand and keeps the batteries pretty close to full charge.  We don't have a ton of idle time though, the boat is usually moving. I top the batteries off with the NOCO when it's sitting. Do you have an onboard charger?  Cheaper and easier than upgrading the alternator. 

[COOP]

That Balmer doesnt look anything like the new 250amp that are on the M motors.

The Malibu part number is E010205. You will also need the harness part E300041.1.

 

Your dealer should be able to order both.

[justgary]

Wow, 250 Amps.  That's about 3.5kW.  Definitely need some big boy wire for that.

[Brandonloos21]

1 hour ago, justgary said:

Wow, 250 Amps.  That's about 3.5kW.  Definitely need some big boy wire for that.

What gauge do the stock 115a alts run?

[shawndoggy]

The alt to starter run is short so doesn’t need to be huge. But consider the amps running through the main cable between the starter and the batteries. 

[Brandonloos21]

2 hours ago, rennis said:

I really don't know, maybe call Bakes?  

I opted for the high output alternator on my boat, it seems to keep up pretty well with the electrical demand and keeps the batteries pretty close to full charge.  We don't have a ton of idle time though, the boat is usually moving. I top the batteries off with the NOCO when it's sitting. Do you have an onboard charger?  Cheaper and easier than upgrading the alternator. 

Yep, I do have one! NOCO as well. Do you have big stereo? Stern turn? 

[Brandonloos21]

47 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

The alt to starter run is short so doesn’t need to be huge. But consider the amps running through the main cable between the starter and the batteries. 

Yes ofcourse. Probably 0ga I’m thinking. It goes to the switch right?

[rennis]

6 minutes ago, Brandonloos21 said:

Yep, I do have one! NOCO as well. Do you have big stereo? Stern turn? 

stereo yes, stern turn no 

[shawndoggy]

9 minutes ago, Brandonloos21 said:

Yes ofcourse. Probably 0ga I’m thinking. It goes to the switch right?

Pretty sure the factory uses 00awg for the small alternator.  so maybe a second run of 00.  or pull and replace with 4/0.

[Brandonloos21]

20 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

Pretty sure the factory uses 00awg for the small alternator.  so maybe a second run of 00.  or pull and replace with 4/0.

Oh cool. Another run of 00 it is! that’s going to cost as much as the alt haha

[shawndoggy]

10 minutes ago, Brandonloos21 said:

Oh cool. Another run of 00 it is! that’s going to cost as much as the alt haha

remember the ground wire too.

[justgary]

And you might also make sure that you get copper wire, not copper-clad aluminum.  That stuff doesn't play well in wet environments.  I'm not so sure it plays well at all unless you just have a temporary hookup or something.

Also verify that your switch is rated for 250 Amps DC or higher.  DC current is nothing to play with since it will draw an arc a lot longer than AC will.  The nice ball of plasma in your switch if somebody decides to kill it under load means 1) you can't stop it after it starts, and 2) the molten blob will eventually melt its way out of there and start a nifty fire in your boat.

[Brandonloos21]

23 minutes ago, justgary said:

And you might also make sure that you get copper wire, not copper-clad aluminum.  That stuff doesn't play well in wet environments.  I'm not so sure it plays well at all unless you just have a temporary hookup or something.

Also verify that your switch is rated for 250 Amps DC or higher.  DC current is nothing to play with since it will draw an arc a lot longer than AC will.  The nice ball of plasma in your switch if somebody decides to kill it under load means 1) you can't stop it after it starts, and 2) the molten blob will eventually melt its way out of there and start a nifty fire in your boat.

Planning on doing tinned OFC, and I did see they made higher rated switches!