Adding 12” JL W7 and Amp to Existing System

[ltroyer2]

I have a 2022 M220 that I purchased and love the existing system with the 4 Rev 10 tower speakers and the 12” Wet Sounds HP sub under the helm. However, I’d like to kick the bass up a notch, so I’ve ordered a JL W7 and a 1000/1 amp to add to the system. I know there’s a number of conversations about voiding my warranty if I go about doing this wrong, so can someone tell me the easiest way to add the amp to the existing setup? Currently I have two wet sounds amps, but I can’t even tell what they are for amps. I do have pics that I can share of them, but was hoping to find an easy way to add the new JL 1000/1 to the existing amp board and go from there. Your input is appreciated!

[ahopkins22LSV]

Have you reviewed @IXFE’s thread?

 

[ltroyer2]

I have looked at it, but I don’t believe it’s the same as he used all aftermarket amps and I’m just wanting to add in an amp to the existing factory amps…

[IXFE]

2 hours ago, ltroyer2 said:

I have a 2022 M220 that I purchased and love the existing system with the 4 Rev 10 tower speakers and the 12” Wet Sounds HP sub under the helm. However, I’d like to kick the bass up a notch, so I’ve ordered a JL W7 and a 1000/1 amp to add to the system. I know there’s a number of conversations about voiding my warranty if I go about doing this wrong, so can someone tell me the easiest way to add the amp to the existing setup? Currently I have two wet sounds amps, but I can’t even tell what they are for amps. I do have pics that I can share of them, but was hoping to find an easy way to add the new JL 1000/1 to the existing amp board and go from there. Your input is appreciated!

12W7 is not a good fit for your boat, for several reasons:

* Foam construction

* It has so much throw/excursion that it will hit your grill unless you set the box way back (which you can’t really do because it’s tight under there)

* It’s just overkill 

You're much better off with TWO 12W6’s like I did. So you see, maybe you should listen to @ahopkinsVTX 😜

[ltroyer2]

14 hours ago, IXFE said:

12W7 is not a good fit for your boat, for several reasons:

* Foam construction

* It has so much throw/excursion that it will hit your grill unless you set the box way back (which you can’t really do because it’s tight under there)

* It’s just overkill 

You're much better off with TWO 12W6’s like I did. So you see, maybe you should listen to @ahopkinsVTX 😜

I’m not putting it under the helm, it’s going in the observers compartment, so I’ve got zero worries about it hitting any grill. Talked to many who have run the W7 in their boats for years, and overkill isn’t really a concern of mine. What I’m trying to figure out is how to essentially tie the new aftermarket amp in with the existing amps via a remote wire and rca’s without voiding my warranty. I’m confident it’ll sound good, and it’ll be what I’m looking for in a system. I couldn’t care about what you or anyone else think is overkill, but if you have input on a solution, that is something I’d appreciate. Thanks

[Brandonloos21]

A harness to go in between the cabin rca plug and the cabin amp, that “y’s” out an rca pair and rem wire for the new amp, goes in between the two, no wire cutting or anything. A lot of people do use the JL w7 series subs in their boats, just have to be careful to keep dry! I am installing (2) DC XL Elite 12’s (car audio subs) in my boat this upcoming season, and plan on facing them toward the hull on the left side to keep them out of the way of any   water.

Edited November 29, 2022 by Brandonloos21

[ltroyer2]

6 minutes ago, Brandonloos21 said:

A harness to go in between the cabin rca plug and the cabin amp, that “y’s” out an rca pair and rem wire for the new amp, goes in between the two, no wire cutting or anything. A lot of people do use the JL w7 series subs in their boats, just have to be careful to keep dry! I am installing (2) DC XL Elite 12’s (car audio subs) in my boat this upcoming season, and plan on facing them toward the hull on the left side to keep them out of the way of any   water.

That’s what I was looking for, thanks! Where did you get the harness? Or did you make it and just cut into the existing plug and spliced off that? And I’m planning on doing mine the same and firing it towards the hull. Thanks for your input!

[MLA]

Foam construction = foam surround. Out of direct sunlight, it should last 4-5 years. A complete manufacture rebuild is less then $600. Just save the original packeging. 

Overkill is a matter of perspective and OMG, is that enclosure filled with expanding foam spray? 

[Brandonloos21]

36 minutes ago, ltroyer2 said:

That’s what I was looking for, thanks! Where did you get the harness? Or did you make it and just cut into the existing plug and spliced off that? And I’m planning on doing mine the same and firing it towards the hull. Thanks for your input!

No problem! I made it. Ordered the parts and soldered a male and female plug together and spliced a y for the needed rcas. Shoot me a pm and I can steer you in the right direction! 

[IXFE]

1 hour ago, MLA said:

Foam construction = foam surround. Out of direct sunlight, it should last 4-5 years. A complete manufacture rebuild is less then $600. Just save the original packeging. 

Overkill is a matter of perspective and OMG, is that enclosure filled with expanding foam spray? 

No dude, I was experimenting that day with some poly fill. 

[IXFE]

14 hours ago, ltroyer2 said:

I’m not putting it under the helm, it’s going in the observers compartment, so I’ve got zero worries about it hitting any grill. Talked to many who have run the W7 in their boats for years, and overkill isn’t really a concern of mine. What I’m trying to figure out is how to essentially tie the new aftermarket amp in with the existing amps via a remote wire and rca’s without voiding my warranty. I’m confident it’ll sound good, and it’ll be what I’m looking for in a system. I couldn't care about what you or anyone else think is overkill, but if you have input on a solution, that is something I’d appreciate. Thanks

Just trying to help. No need to be rude or break TOU. 

You left a lot of helpful context out of your original post forcing me to make assumptions   

If your question was really just about an adapter, the answer is actually found in a pinned thread, but I digress. 

No way to do this without voiding your warranty. 

Good luck with your project. 

[ltroyer2]

2 hours ago, MLA said:

Foam construction = foam surround. Out of direct sunlight, it should last 4-5 years. A complete manufacture rebuild is less then $600. Just save the original packeging. 

Overkill is a matter of perspective and OMG, is that enclosure filled with expanding foam spray? 

Is it true there’s no way to do this without voiding the warranty MLA?

[Brandonloos21]

7 hours ago, ltroyer2 said:

Is it true there’s no way to do this without voiding the warranty MLA?

What he’s saying is modifying the existing stereo system in any way is technically enough to void the warranty. A lot of us use these harnesses to replace stock junky dsp amps and get more out of our speakers, then when we sell boat, we can easily reinstall the stock dsp amps. 
 

In terms of keeping warranty, if you cut these plugs completely off and/or solder/crimp rca’s (modify factory wiring), it would be known it was modified even if factory equipment was reinstalled. There would be no ability to throw stock dsp amps back in and return to dealer for warranty fix. 
 

Talk to your dealership and be open about modifying stereo, a LOT of people modify their boat stereos. My dealership specifically mentioned that they would be able to warranty anything on the boat but my aftermarket stereo equipment (obviously) and wouldn’t let that void other warranty claims. 

[ltroyer2]

On 11/28/2022 at 8:58 PM, Brandonloos21 said:

No problem! I made it. Ordered the parts and soldered a male and female plug together and spliced a y for the needed rcas. Shoot me a pm and I can steer you in the right direction! 

Question for ya. I got the harness from Exile, but I’m wondering which plug I unplug from the amp and plug the harness into? Or am I plugging this thing into somewhere on the black box? Any help you can provide is appreciated.

[Brandonloos21]

16 hours ago, ltroyer2 said:

Question for ya. I got the harness from Exile, but I’m wondering which plug I unplug from the amp and plug the harness into? Or am I plugging this thing into somewhere on the black box? Any help you can provide is appreciated.

Just plug it i between the stock amp and the harness that plugs into the amplifier! Think of it as an extension cord almost, and you’ll split your sub RCAs out. 

[ltroyer2]

On 1/22/2023 at 1:01 AM, Brandonloos21 said:

Just plug it i between the stock amp and the harness that plugs into the amplifier! Think of it as an extension cord almost, and you’ll split your sub RCAs out. 

Thanks for the input. Got it figured out and was super easy. Got the W7 added now and it sounds great!

[Brandonloos21]

3 minutes ago, ltroyer2 said:

Thanks for the input. Got it figured out and was super easy. Got the W7 added now and it sounds great!

How’s the w7 sound, any chance you coild post or send me any pictures? I’m currently Helping someone with a perspective 13w7 install in an m220!  

[styczinskia]

20 minutes ago, Brandonloos21 said:

How’s the w7 sound, any chance you coild post or send me any pictures? I’m currently Helping someone with a perspective 13w7 install in an m220!  

I have had a w7 in a ported box run by a JL M1000 in the observers storage area in my last few boats (M220 and 25LSV)... My opinion is it sounds pretty dang good when paired with the stock Malibu Rev10 system as it balances the lows with the highs they provide. Sounds good enough that I had someone climb around the boat while we were tied up last year looking for where the "others" were hidden. 

[ltroyer2]

On 2/3/2023 at 9:05 AM, Brandonloos21 said:

How’s the w7 sound, any chance you coild post or send me any pictures? I’m currently Helping someone with a perspective 13w7 install in an m220!  

It sounds bad a$$! I have everything dynamatted and there’s no rattles or anything. Had to add a couple cabinet door rubber stops to the glove box to cure that rattle, and also put dynamat around the cup holders, but that solved all the noise issues. Not sure how to insert a picture here, but I have some if you want to fill me in on how I do that. I’m now in the process of building a bigger box for the factory WS Revo 12 HP under the helm to see if I can get some better output out of that…

[Jbcain]

On 2/28/2023 at 7:40 PM, ltroyer2 said:

It sounds bad a$$! I have everything dynamatted and there’s no rattles or anything. Had to add a couple cabinet door rubber stops to the glove box to cure that rattle, and also put dynamat around the cup holders, but that solved all the noise issues. Not sure how to insert a picture here, but I have some if you want to fill me in on how I do that. I’m now in the process of building a bigger box for the factory WS Revo 12 HP under the helm to see if I can get some better output out of that…

It's not really a box thing with the oem sub, it's a power/amp/signal thing.

[hethj7]

33 minutes ago, Jbcain said:

It's not really a box thing with the oem sub, it's a power/amp/signal thing.

The box isn’t helping either.  It isn’t properly sized and usually has lots of air leaks.  

[IXFE]

On 3/2/2023 at 5:42 PM, Jbcain said:

It's not really a box thing with the oem sub, it's a power/amp/signal thing.

I used to think that too… 

The truth… it’s all of the above.