2001 Malibu Wakesetter VLX Rebuild

[barch]

I recently acquired a 2001 Malibu Wakesetter VLX 21'. It needs extensive work. Previous owner ran the boat on shore destroying the fiberglass hull in multiple spots...

- Tracking fins are gone

-Prop shaft is gouged and assuming bent

-Prop strut bent to a 20 degree angle

-Prop destroyed

-Rudder bent beyond repairable status

Otherwise the boat is in great condition. Some wear on the interior but all salvageable. I got a great deal on this boat and what better boat to restore and bring to its former glory than a Malibu! I got this boat from a website called copart.com (they deal with insurance salvaged vehicles) With these models fetching close to 25k on the used market I'll say that I got this puppy for about 20k less than that   After buying and modifying a trailer from Offerup to fit a v-drive boat, paying all fees for purchase, and repair estimate by doing all the work myself I'm shooting to keep this project under 11k all in. If I can do that, not bad for a boat I'll love and cherish for the years to come of skiing, wakeboarding, surfing, barefooting and soaking up the cosmic rays of mother nature.

Edited November 20, 2022 by barch
add photos

[barch]

Finally got the rudder out today...was an absolute PITA. Not only was the rudder post bent so it wouldn't drop from the housing but the housing is bent as well as the hardware that bolts it all together. Should have been a easy job...it wasn't.

Any idea if I can use any rudder from malibuparts.com as long as it is the correct square housing mount? I understand the counter weighted tiller arms are beneficial to reduce vibration but I figure the boat didn't have one in the first place so should be alright replacing it with the standard rudder and box available.

Anyone know if this rudder from malibuparts.com will work?

https://www.malibuparts.com/products/under-water-gear-rudder-3411022?_pos=4&_sid=e344bab7b&_ss=r

 

Also, new/used prop arrived (minor denting along the edges) and new strut arrived!

[braindamage]

Congratulations on the new ‘BU!! She’s going to be a beauty!

keep the pics coming!

[justgary]

I don't see anything that won't just buff out....

I think I would pull the engine and transmission to make things a little easier overall.  First, it allows you to inspect the motor mounts and ensure that you have a solid foundation for your years of future use.  Second, it will make fixing the fiberglass damage much easier to accomplish.  Get all the glass as good as you can get it inside and out, then maybe glass in a big ol' sheet of roving that covers the whole bilge from the transom to at least a foot forward of the strut.  You could drape it up the sides of the stringers as well to tie it all together.

Looking at it a second time, the strut area will need even more new glass since it looks like it punched through the hull on its aft end.  Note how the prop got high enough to gnaw into the glass above it.

You'll be really good at fiberglass repair by the time you get it done!

[barch]

Spoke with a friend today who is a expert in fiberglass. From the looks of the fiberglass on the forward starboard section...it did splinter some glass at the drivers feet area... will pull up carpet and lay a section on the interior before layering externally. As for the engine compartment there is no indication of glasswork poking through at the rudder, strut, nor log. I do believe it flexed a lot though because it partially 'popped' the support member that runs port to starboard just aft of the rear engine mounts but forward of the rudder. I will reglass the support member into the hull and lay another heavy mat on top of the strut area for strength before layering up underneath (all splintering from underside will be ground out prior to any glasswork). Hard part is going to be getting a good mount for the strut flat and equal to oem spec.

 

***Is there any reason I should not use this rudder?

https://www.malibuparts.com/products/under-water-gear-rudder-3411022?_pos=4&_sid=e344bab7b&_ss=r

It says for Axis 2011+ but if the housing, mounting flange, shape/size of rudder, and tiller arm are all similar or equal spec to the rudder I am replacing why wouldn't I???

[BlindSquirrel]

That looks like it should work. When I replaced mine, I got it from marine hardware.com. Called them and they hooked me up with the correct one. It was around $400 if I remember correctly. 

[barch]

Was not able to simply unbolt the prop shaft coupler to remove the shaft. Had to cut it. Looks like when the prop stopped spinning on land the engine kept running...the coupler spun until it bored itself out around the nut and could not fit a socket over the nut. 1.5 hours and 5 blades later and its out!!

Access to the shaft was best on the starboard side inside the rear compartment. Blade in reciprocating saw upside down to fit the tool in the tight space

 

[barch]

Went ahead and ordered the Axis rudder... Apparently even Marine Hardware doesn't make the original 'V-DRIVE' rudder, only the 'V-DRIVE 2'. Quotes for the 'V-DRIVE 2' are in the $1100 range so hoping the Axis rudder works...it looks very similar to the original.

Activewake.com was very helpful and even measured the Axis rudder for me that they had on stock...went ahead and ordered through them for $430. Part number SKU: 3411022

[barch]

Ordered Prop shaft through Bakesmarine...$430 total shipping included on Cyber Monday deal

Correct Part Number is 3431909

Edited November 29, 2022 by barch

[BlindSquirrel]

Cool. You should order one of these while you're at it. Way better than the old school rope trick. 

https://skidim.com/flex-gland-system-1-1-8.html

 

[barch]

@BLINDSQUIRREL

Got one on order in the mail! Thank you!

[barch]

2011 axis rudder came in the mail and it will work on 2001 wakesetter. Rudder box is exact same, rudder is very similar in size/shape... tiller arm is correct side, however, axis uses a longer arm. Simple fix will be to drill new steering cable mount hole on the arm. Will post pics when I do this.

[barch]

GOT IT RUNNING!!! Two weeks ago checked all fluids, pulled and checked spark plugs, checked for water in fuel tank, changed impeller, installed new ignition (amazon purchase) installed a battery out of my 4runner for the test and BOOM. She cranked right over and started right up. Very happy moment.

 

Finally starting on fiberglass work...Used a flap disc on angle grinder to grind away major fiberglass shards, sanded the inside of the major hole, applied resin and waited 10 minutes for it to get tacky so sheet would stick to it, laid fiberglass sheet, more resin til sheet was soaked, applied another sheet, more resin, another sheet, more resin, let dry. 3 layers fiberglass cloth on the inside, now i have something to push against when applying the outside mat, sheets, resin, etc. Will eventually use Cabosil, a powdered fiberglass, to fill in imperfections and gouging in the gel coat. It mixes with resin to form a consistency very similar to bondo. Will then paint with Awlgrip...basically a two part paint they use on megayachts.

Damage visible after major damage was ground away

 

Friend applying the resin to let get tacky, then apply fiberglass cloth.

 

Finished with inside. This will allow me to press hard from the outside and force any air bubbles out of the resin. Was very fortunate with the damage occuring above the floor board line. Simply pulled the carpet back at drivers feet and had great access.

 

Edited December 24, 2022 by barch

[BlindSquirrel]

Sweet! 

[justgary]

Looks good so far.

No need to get resin tacky before laying the cloth on.  Fresh resin is plenty sticky.

I would probably add a layer of 24 ounce woven roving to your patch on the inside, and overlap it at least six or eight inches onto the existing hull material.

[Steve B.]

Dang dude, you're gonna get this. I wouldn't have tried it personally. Looks awesome. Keep us posted on your progress.

Steve B.

[barch]

Some shots of getting the fiberglass work on the outside started... Used a angle grinder with cut off wheel to cut back the delaminated areas. Then used a 60 grit sandpaper flap disk to feather the edges. Then used Dual action sander with 150 grit to lightly sand the very top layer of the gelcoat about 12 inches all around. Got the major sections done, now need to do the small areas and underneath near the prop area, then its glassing time!!!

 

 

[cowwboy]

Great work, I can't wait to see it progress. 

[barch]

Sanded the edges back and exposed all the delaminated sections. Feathered the edges and then we applied 'mud', basically a mixture of the resin with shredded fiberglass to give the resin some consistency. Plastered the mud over the damaged area and let dry. This gives up a strong backing that we can now press the glass against firmly to build up the layers. Next we will sand the mud then apply layer after layer of actual fiberglass cloth and mat on the outside.

 

Edited February 10, 2023 by barch

[Steve B.]

Great work ! 

[Slurpee]

Bravo!!!!

[redrooster]

Wow.  This will be fun to watch.  Keep up the great work!!

[barch]

Planning on getting some more glass work done this weekend once the Southern California rain stops. The through bolt tracking fins were ripped from the hull and I am wanting to go to the newer lag bolt style fin rather than pulling up all the upholstery and carpet and fuel tank...does anyone have knowledge in if the hull was reinforced for the newer lag bolt fins?

[barch]

Got a lot of work done over the last few weeks...finished the glass work and sanded it as smooth as could be before applying fairing compound.

Fiberglass cloth going on...about 6 layers of very thick cloth

Below is the Rubber Isolator (or so I believe it is...its a large chunk of rubber fiberglassed under the engine directly above the props rotation...believe it to be a dampening piece) In order to do this part I fully wrapped the engine in ceran wrap to prevent as much fiberglass dust on the engine. Cut it out and got rid of all the delaminated glass with a angle grinder (very tough in such a tight area) then gooped up some resin with shredded fiberglass and slapped the bad boy in there. Then glassed two thick layers over it.

Purchased fairing compound from Total Boat on Amazon and its been good. Easy filler to use similar to bondo but meant for marine applications.

Probably 2 more days of application and sanding to fill in all the low spots and get it near perfect. Plan then is to use Awlgrip primer and paint to respray everything below the rub rail.

 

 

Edited May 22, 2023 by barch

[Mb911]

Why not gel below the waterline?