Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Intermintant Warning Beep (Fuel, sensor, battery?) 2004 LSV


Recommended Posts

I have been experiencing intermittent warning beeps. First started when I got the boat in 2021. Dealer said it was a misfire. That spring did cap, wires, plugs, all fluids, and had the fuel injectors serviced. Boat ran great all summer (50 Hours?) and had the beep come back the last weekend at the cottage. Chased it a bit on a fake a lake, but not seriously. This spring, brought it out, ran without beeps on a fake a lake a number of times. Ran for 2-3 hours on the lake, all good. Ran on Fake a Lake while testing new ballast pumps, and the beep came back. I made GaryDoug's cable, and used his MEFI program (which is awesome by the way). The boat seems to run well, and I have never seemed to have an issue with performance, no start, rough idle, etc, gauges, etc.

In my troubleshooting endeavors I also purchased a Winkey Blinkey, which frustratingly enough will not display any logged trouble codes. it just runs code 12 over and over. I just noticed for the first time my temp didn't register on the dash, i.e. didn't get over 80 while I ran the boat on and off for about 40 min. Usually it comes up to 160 without issue. I felt the manifolds and they felt pretty darn cool, so I think I am going to start with temperature related things. It may have smelled a bit rich, and I have noticed some gray smoke coming out of the exhaust intermittently (maybe during the first 1-2 minute of running occasionally), but that usually clears up, and not every time.

I might just throw the whole sensor kitchen sink (O2, MAP, Etc), thermostat, and PCV valve, at it one at a time, as that would be cheaper than taking it to the dealership and leaving it there for 4-6 weeks, while they keep telling me it will be "next week". I don't think I have an issue with Fuel Delivery, but I will be checking that last if needed.

With all of the random codes, it could be ECU? The Battery looks good too.

Below are the codes that popped up on the MEFI4 Scanner during one scan of about 10 minutes:

image.png.519a52438955b1db8ca15609b6076752.png

 

Link to comment

Check all your ground wires, two on the engine (one in front of or near starter coming from battery and one located on opposite of the starter side coming from the ECM). Find the "schrader valve" on your engine and check the fuel pressure. My fuel regulator was clogged and caused all types of electrical problems due to fuel pump working too hard and overheating my electrical system. If I had checked my fuel pressure from the start after buying my boat it would have solved a lot of problems. The previous owner let the boat set for years causing the fuel regulator housing to rust a corrode over time of no use. Boat ran at 90psi for a year but should have been at or around 60psi.

Link to comment

Only 4 things activate the beeper in "04. Low oil pressure, high tranny temps, high coolant temps, and a diagnostic trouble code.

Link to comment
5 hours ago, rakr said:

It may have smelled a bit rich, and I have noticed some gray smoke coming out of the exhaust intermittently (maybe during the first 1-2 minute of running occasionally), but that usually clears up, and not every time.

The ECM will enrich the fuel mixture if it thinks the engine is cold.  The mixture will also end up rich if the fuel pressure is too high (as @Smooth mentioned).

I agree with checking power and ground connections, as well as pulling the Cannon plug (engine harness connector near the ECM) and making sure that all of the pins make good contact with the sockets.

Link to comment

Yes, low oil pressure can set off a beeper but many things can cause low oil pressure. Such as an engine stalling because of fuel flooding the engine or a bad negative connection on the ECM side.

Link to comment

I am not inclined to think it is Oil Pressure, but ya never know.

I think tonight I am going to check grounds, check the ECU harness, hunt down the filter on the fuel regulator and grind in a notch in the top cover to get at the fuel pressure valve. Ill report back. I will probably not get back to testing fuel pressure until tomorrow or Wednesday (baseball and Karate for the kids tomorrow).

Follow up questions. I am guessing the regulator is somewhere mid line between the sender/pump (rubber hose) and the steel lines that lead to the fuel rails? (at work now or I would check). I am also assuming that part is serviceable, i.e. once I get it off it can be disassembled to get to the screen?

Thanks all!!!

Link to comment
1 hour ago, rakr said:

Follow up questions. I am guessing the regulator is somewhere mid line between the sender/pump (rubber hose) and the steel lines that lead to the fuel rails? (at work now or I would check). I am also assuming that part is serviceable, i.e. once I get it off it can be disassembled to get to the screen?

My fuel regulator is located on the fuel pump housing. If you have located your fuel pump then check and see if it has a "U" shaped metal fuel line coming from pump back down into a "T" that is screwed into the fuel pump housing bracket. If it does, then regulator should be right below that "T" connection.

Had to cut on my intake housing also to get to the schrader valve. I did mine with a "Cross-cutting Tooth Saw" just make sure you angle the blade away from any fuel lines under the housing and/or wires for the injectors:shocked:. Make two upward strips (1" or little longer) with cutting tool about 1/4" or 1/2" wide and chip them away with screwdriver and hammer or pry them back and forth with a Tongue & Groove Plier, aluminum housing should cut and brake off with not too much force. Repeat if not wide enough slot to get to the shcrader valve.

Link to comment

@Smooth, I’ll probably just take the cover off. I need to change the PCV valve too and that will make it a touch easier. 

Link to comment
Posted (edited)

grounds are tight and surprisingly clean. Checked the connections to the ECU(two under the cover on either side of the heat sink), and they still had dielectric? grease on them, and looked really good. 

It looks like I should have clearance to get to the valve to check the pressure. 

How do I get the regulator off? Bolt and collar are off, but it is in there tight. I saw some reference to releasing the pressure. Not sure if I need to push on the “pointy thing” or release the pressure from the schrader valve near the fuel rail? 
 

thanks! 
 

EF33BC29-3C9F-460B-A9C9-FA8D43FCC7D8.jpeg

BB84DC6F-A2AA-451B-9AA9-7FFE432126DE.jpeg

Edited by rakr
Link to comment
2 hours ago, rakr said:

How do I get the regulator off? Bolt and collar are off, but it is in there tight. I saw some reference to releasing the pressure. Not sure if I need to push on the “pointy thing” or release the pressure from the schrader valve near the fuel rail? 

Looks just like my old one, painted black and everything with a little rubber stopper over the air nipple barb. Take a pair of pliers and work it back and forth while pulling on it. If not enough then use a screwdriver with your other hand and try and pry under the small lip while rotating back and forth with pliers. Make sure everything comes out of the regulator hole. Meaning a plastic screen and some rubber o-rings. I had to pry my screen out with a small screwdriver after the regulator was out.

You might want to check the pressure first because the pliers will crush the wall of the regulator and could cause harm to it if you wanted to use it again. Otherwise it's about a $60 part from Napa.

Link to comment

bakesmarine has a Bosch 0280160575 for $115

Amazon has a Bosch 0280160575 for as low as $24

The vacuum barb is on the side of regulator which is not used on the monsoon anyway.

Summitracing.com has a Bosch 0280160566 that's just like yours for $56 with vacuum nipple on top of regulator. If want the same look as yours (minus the black paint)

Link to comment
Posted (edited)

@Smooth Awesome!!! thanks!

I am kind of hating that black paint right now. it was all over tons of components, and is starting to flake off. The guy that did my injectors said it was pretty typical.

so I am guessing the rubber "nipple", is just a cap as the vacuum hose is not used on our boats?

Edited by rakr
Link to comment

Interesting they changed regulator from '01 to '04.  Mine sits right on the rail and is a different style than that.

Quick and easy thing to check that fails often is the oil pressure switch (not the sending unit for the gauge).  Disconnect that completely and see if you still get beeping.  If it's that, those are cheap and easy to replace.

Link to comment

@UWSkier already tried the sending unit, and have a replacement, but I’ll give the switch a whirl as well. Wasn’t sure if not having it connected would throw an alarm, but should have tried it. Thanks! 

Link to comment
38 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

Interesting they changed regulator from '01 to '04.

2004 started the 4 Bar fuel systems instead of the 3 Bar systems before.

Link to comment

To clarify, I pulled off the wire from the switch in the middle while running. Beeping persisted. 
 

should I try taking the wire off the sending unit as well? I assuming not as I’m guessing that provide the power to the sending unit. 
 

Going to rent a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow before I keep pulling things apart. 25FC6F9B-CE91-4D3B-9FB2-EB7509ECA091.thumb.jpeg.e258aa36c561460c88cadeafdf390622.jpeg

Link to comment
1 hour ago, rakr said:

while running. Beeping persisted.

What is your voltage while running and beeping? Do you have a "Dual 12V USB Charger with a Red Digital Voltmeter" located beneath the back seat and between to speakers. If you do, what's the volts reading on it while running? Shouldn't be much more than 14.0 volts on it.

Link to comment

Last time I ran, I believe it was 13v. Dash show correct and I bought an additional “capacity” monitor that also shows voltage. I’ll check tomorrow, been raining all afternoon here. 
 

I have a T-stat and temp sensor for the ECU on order.

Im going to rent a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow and check that out. 
 

after reading a bit more on diagnostics , IAC, TPS, and MAP don’t seem to be contributing to my issue, so I am starting cheap and easy (hopefully). My “I’ll only be in the garage for 30 min” usually turns into a bloody, 6 beers and 2 hour ordeal. 

Link to comment

Thanks for the update! I know what you mean by a bloody ordeal and the 6 beers sounds like the best advise I've heard in a while.

Link to comment
ahopkinsVTX

Sorry if it has been mentioned already, but my friend has the same engine in his 02 sslxi and had an intermittent beep like you described. Chased it forever with similar diagnosis and part replacements, turned out to be a bad knock sensor at the end of the day. 

Link to comment

@ahopkinsVTX after fuel delivery (1st), thermostat and temp sensor (as I’m betting the T-stay hadn’t been changed/checked in a long time), I plan on doing the knock sensor. 
 

can you unplug the knock sensor similar to the oil sender or switch to see if that resolves the issue? 
 

thanks for the note!!!

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...