2017 Malibu trailer brake MC leaking

[Fman]

Got a nice surprise this spring with a leaking MC on my 2017 trailer.  A little disappointed it only lasted five years.  I have all the parts ordered and coming this week, I am replacing the MC, shock/strut, pushrod and reverse solenoid.  I figured I mind as well do everything while I have it taken apart.  I wanted to find out if anyone here has rebuilt one of these?  I am thinking I am going to have to remove the inner slide and rebuild it on the bench and then slide it back into the trailer?  If anyone has any tips please send them my way.

Thanks ;-)

[dalt1]

Strange coincidence. My 18 was also dripping on my garage floor last month too. I cleaned it all out and topped of the reservoir. Has not leaked since. 

[Fman]

45 minutes ago, dalt1 said:

Strange coincidence. My 18 was also dripping on my garage floor last month too. I cleaned it all out and topped of the reservoir. Has not leaked since. 

Unfortunately tried the same and still had leakage.  After pulling the MC it is was evident I had a leaking MC.  Hopefully you will have better luck!

[csleaver]

I find it is easier to remove the entire brake actuator inner member and brake line as one piece, do the repairs, assemble it, and install it as one piece.

After removing the snap rings and pins, I slide a couple 3/8 drive 1/2" or 13mm deep sockets into the place of the pins and slide the inner member out as an assembly.  It is much easier to disconnect the brake line where the steel line meets the soft line in the trailer tongue.  To get the soft line pulled out far enough, I disconnect the steel line at the axle tee fitting, straighten it out a bit, and pull it out at the tongue swing away to get to where the steel line and soft hose connect.  The backup solenoid wire and ground wires will need to be cut, and then reconnected during install.  Everything is installed in the reverse order and then bleed the brakes.

If you have problems sliding the master cylinder and actuator rod into place, don't forget to push on the spring loaded breakaway release lever on the bottom of the actuator.

[Fman]

24 minutes ago, csleaver said:

I find it is easier to remove the entire brake actuator inner member and brake line as one piece, do the repairs, assemble it, and install it as one piece.

After removing the snap rings and pins, I slide a couple 3/8 drive 1/2" or 13mm deep sockets into the place of the pins and slide the inner member out as an assembly.  It is much easier to disconnect the brake line where the steel line meets the soft line in the trailer tongue.  To get the soft line pulled out far enough, I disconnect the steel line at the axle tee fitting, straighten it out a bit, and pull it out at the tongue swing away to get to where the steel line and soft hose connect.  The backup solenoid wire and ground wires will need to be cut, and then reconnected during install.  Everything is installed in the reverse order and then bleed the brakes.

If you have problems sliding the master cylinder and actuator rod into place, don't forget to push on the spring loaded breakaway release lever on the bottom of the actuator.

Thank you for this info, great idea with the 1/2" or 13mm sockets.

[dalt1]

On 4/21/2022 at 9:00 PM, Fman said:

Unfortunately tried the same and still had leakage.  After pulling the MC it is was evident I had a leaking MC.  Hopefully you will have better luck!

Will find out today, it is headed out today for it's first dunk of the year.

[Fman]

I was able to replace the MC.  Not the most difficult task but did take me a couple hours.  The 1/2" socket inside the MC to keep the end caps aligned was a HUGE help! (thank you CSLEAVER) I ended up removing the center sleeve and building everything inside the sleeve and sliding it back in the trailer.  One of the biggest challenges is the brake line itself wants to re-coil and loosen because it is a solid male connection threading into the MC.  We ended up removing the outer sleeve and twisting everything together (inner and outer) to counter the re-coil and getting the rubber line to straighten and relax.  This seemed to work and was not to difficult. As Csleaver recommended sounds like loosening the rubber line at the "T" is also a way to avoid the re-coil.

 

Will have to see how my first tow goes, we are heading out Friday for the first dip of the season.