Extending aluminum trailer to fit boat

[Garetth]

Hey everyone, looking for some advice. I recently picked up a project 2005 wakesetter 23lsv that came on a trailer that obviously isn't currently meant for the boat. you'll notice the bunks are to low as it's sitting on some rigged together 2x10s and is roughly 2' short. It's an aluminum trailer and in overall pretty good condition and would love to save the money needed to buying a trailer if it's not frowned upon. I've called all the local marinas to me and there seemed to be a 4-6 month wait + the cost of roughly $6000 Canadian for a new trailer.

Looking for some input and maybe it's not uncommon to modify these aluminum trailers?

 Would like to extend the bunks to actually touch the hull as well extending them 2' past the rear frame of the trailer so they reach the transom of the boat. Has anyone had experience doing this to there trailer or is it better off waiting for possibly 6 months? Here are some pictures to see.

 

[Bozboat]

How is the weight balance, shouldn't the wheels be further back more under the engine?   Need a prop guard as well.

[oldjeep]

What is the weight rating on that trailer?  Doesn't look beefy enough for a wake boat if that is aluminum

[REHinH20]

Agree with @oldjeep, Not sure that trailer was ever mean to carry a boat that weighs 3900 lbs. dry!  If it's a SHORT storage to ramp trip you might get by, but anything longer, I'd have some concerns.

 

[Garetth]

23 minutes ago, REHinH20 said:

Agree with @oldjeep, Not sure that trailer was ever mean to carry a boat that weighs 3900 lbs. dry!  If it's a SHORT storage to ramp trip you might get by, but anything longer, I'd have some concerns.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone, I'll find the rating plate tonight. Believe it or not the previous owner towed it like this for 27 hours 

 

 

[Cole2001]

Inboard trailers generally have their axles further forward than outboards, but that might a little too much hanging off. 

[UWSkier]

Does that boat have an engine installed? If so, I don't think you could go much over 25mph without significant sway. 

I'd look for a secondhand trailer that could be more easily modified and that would fit your boat better. They exist. 

[Garetth]

Just now, UWSkier said:

Does that boat have an engine installed? If so, I don't think you could go much over 25mph without significant sway. 

I'd look for a secondhand trailer that could be more easily modified and that would fit your boat better. They exist. 

It does have one installed, I picked it up and drove it 2 hours home @50mph because I had it tarped so no interior pieces would fly away. The previous owner towed it 27 hours though lol. I'll definitely try to find a used one but as of right now there is nothing.

[justgary]

That trailer looks like galvanized steel to me....

[oldjeep]

6 minutes ago, justgary said:

That trailer looks like galvanized steel to me....

Awful wide welds to be steel.

[justgary]

58 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Awful wide welds to be steel.

I thought so also.  I have never seen an aluminum trailer made with box tube and c-rail.  I'm probably wrong, but the construction seems like steel to me.

[Michigan boarder]

It also appears too narrow.  In the first pic the hull appears to be over the fender, is that normal on an LSV?

I would say do not modify that trailer, instead get the proper trailer for the boat and sell that one as is, you can probably get decent money for it before making the modifications.

[justgary]

@Garetth - My trailer has 8"x3" vertical bunks to help get clearance over the frame.  You can cut bunks whatever size you need for your trailer.  You should try to balance clearance over the frame with clearance over the ground.  Too much over ground and you will have to back into the water further.  Not enough clearance and you will risk hitting your running gear.  You might be able to change your axle arrangement if you need to do a gross height adjustment.

Definitely add a prop cage to help protect the running gear.  If the trailer is steel, you can weld it on.  If it is aluminum, you can bolt it on.  You can tie your bunks into that extension as well.  Once that is done, you could move the tail lamps back to the end of the trailer for better visibility (and to possibly make it legal, depending on your laws).

[Rack]

Garetth,  That trailer is wrong on every level.

You need to support the full length of the hull with proper Bunks to distribute the weight.

Send away for this Book ." How To Build A Boat Trailer." By Glen L Witt.  It's 25 bucks at    Boat design .com

[cowwboy]

Are the axles welded to the trailer or are they on slides that bolt to the trailer? 
I have a aluminum I-beam that the entire suspension system is bolted to the trailer. If so you could get new bunk boards that match the hull and move the axles to the correct balance point.

But then you still wouldn't have a prop guard. 

[Michigan boarder]

Gotta love the I-beam design, here's my trailer.  The only thing I don't like is the squeaking at stressed turns.