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pressure fuel indmar mpi year 2000


Charlotte2

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4 hours ago, Charlotte2 said:

Hello! Yes thank you it works well...the only problem now is this intake flap...when I open or close with the stop screw it stays constantly at 650 turns because the IAC valve does its job but with this bad setting it tends to stall before arriving at its temperature...

I would try turning it until you can get it to 700 RPM, then back it off to 650 RPM.

Hopefully @csleaver will tell us the real way to do it!

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Normally there is no reason to adjust the throttle stop.  If the throttle plate needs to be adjusted due to idle flare when shifting, stalling when coming from WOT to idle, or reduced WOT power, this is basically how Indmar explains the procedure from my notes taken over a decade ago.

The engine needs to be at normal operating temperature and the boat in the water.  Running on the trailer with a motor flush will not provide the correct back pressure.  Remove the throttle cable.  Adjust the throttle stop screw to fully close the throttle plate.  Turn the stop screw 1.5-2 turns initially to open the throttle plate.  Turn the key on and back off two times for the TPS and ECM to learn new idle position.  Start and run the engine and check the IAC counts with a diagnostic tool like diacom.  The IAC at idle speed should be between 20-40 counts.  Adjust the throttle stop with the engine off.  Continue to make adjustments until the IAC data is at 20-40 counts with the engine running at idle speed.

Edited by csleaver
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Everything said above is right. Be aware that the hood/cover needs to be in place as usual over the flame arrestor. I left it off the last time I had this issue and the IAC count was 4. It worked fine but was by far not right. Putting back on the hood made it 18...close enough for me ;-)

"Adjust the throttle stop with the engine off. ". You may want to clarify that one.

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17 minutes ago, GaryDoug said:

"Adjust the throttle stop with the engine off. ". You may want to clarify that one.

The throttle stop screw should not be adjusted when the engine is running.  Shut off the engine, adjust the throttle stop, restart the engine and check the IAC counts.  Repeat as needed.

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Hello and thanks to you friends.. you help me a lot!! I will already make adjustment to two turns and when it will be water and hot I will make adjustment with diagnostic tools.. thank you thank you

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On 21/04/2022 at 05:24, csleaver said:

La vis d'arrêt de l'accélérateur ne doit pas être ajustée lorsque le moteur tourne. Coupez le moteur, réglez la butée des gaz, redémarrez le moteur et vérifiez les comptages IAC. Répétez au besoin.

 

On 25/04/2022 at 20:51, Charlotte2 said:

Bonjour et merci à vous les amis.. vous m'aidez beaucoup!! Je vais déjà faire le réglage à deux tours et quand ce sera de l'eau et chaud je ferai le réglage avec des outils de diagnostic.. merci merci

Thanks friends...if I put the screw to the stop I can not tighten by two turns...it arrives at full speed and the shutter is very open it goes up to 750 turns...I tried several times without result...never the same IAC. Some times 150. Some times 80. And at restart 150...never identical.. I read the method several times and put back the flame shield...sometimes it turns to 560 turns and after setting 630 turns but smells essence...in short I can not...

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11 minutes ago, Charlotte2 said:

 

Merci les amis...si je mets la vis à fond je n'arrive pas à serrer de deux tours...elle arrive à pleine vitesse et l'obturateur est très ouvert elle monte à 750 tours...j'ai essayé plusieurs fois sans résultat. ..jamais le même IAC. Quelques fois 150. Quelques fois 80. Et au redémarrage 150... jamais identique.. J'ai lu plusieurs fois la méthode et remis le pare-flammes... parfois ça tourne à 560 tours et après réglage 630 tours mais ça sent l'essence.. .en bref je ne peux pas...

Just to know .. when IAC is too high is it necessary to close the pane or open the admission pane?

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2 hours ago, Charlotte2 said:

Just to know .. when IAC is too high is it necessary to close the pane or open the admission pane?

It sounds like you might have created an air leak somewhere.  Carefully check your work to make sure that air can only get in through the throat of the throttle body.

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10 minutes ago, justgary said:

Il semble que vous ayez créé une fuite d'air quelque part. Vérifiez soigneusement votre travail pour vous assurer que l'air ne peut pénétrer que par la gorge du corps de papillon.


 

 

I changed all the gaskets and IAC and TPS and MAP...I changed the gaskets admission...how can I check if an element is split without seeing it? Gasoline with a brush maybe?

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1 minute ago, Charlotte2 said:

I changed all the gaskets and IAC and TPS and MAP...I changed the gaskets admission...how can I check if an element is split without seeing it? Gasoline with a brush maybe?

Spray ether starting fluid is good.  Spray carb cleaner also works.  Spray it at things and see if the RPM changes.  I would not use gasoline.

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14 minutes ago, justgary said:

Le liquide de démarrage à l'éther de pulvérisation est bon. Le nettoyant pour carburateur en spray fonctionne également. Vaporisez-le sur les choses et voyez si le RPM change. Je n'utiliserais pas d'essence.

Ok I do tomorrow. Thanks to you I inform you 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 27/04/2022 at 22:31, Charlotte2 said:

Ok je fais demain. Grâce à vous je vous informe 

 

Hello. I come late but I am looking for collector 531125-6 indmar.. it no longer exists.. Does anyone know the part that’s being cross-referenced? My aluminum water intake is gnawed and the water arrives in oil despite the new seals...thanks in advance!

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5 hours ago, Charlotte2 said:

Hello. I come late but I am looking for collector 531125-6 indmar.. it no longer exists.. Does anyone know the part that’s being cross-referenced? My aluminum water intake is gnawed and the water arrives in oil despite the new seals...thanks in advance!

I think we lost something in the translation.  You are looking for an "intake manifold" for your multi-port injected 5.7L.  I suspect this is the pre-vortec model, but perhaps @Woodski might have a bit more insight.

Do you know why yours is leaking?  Can you resurface it with a file?

Would 531170 fit?

https://www.michiganmotorz.com/5-7l-e-coat-mpi-vortec-intake-manifold-indmar-1996-current

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16 minutes ago, justgary said:

Je pense que nous avons perdu quelque chose dans la traduction. Vous recherchez une "tubulure d'admission" pour votre 5.7L multivoies injecté. Je soupçonne que c'est le modèle pré-vortec, mais peut-être@Woodskipourrait avoir un peu plus de perspicacité.

Savez-vous pourquoi le vôtre fuit ? Pouvez-vous le resurfacer avec une lime ?

Le 531170 conviendrait-il ?

https://www.michiganmotorz.com/5-7l-e-coat-mpi-vortec-intake-manifold-indmar-1996-current

You have understood very well... I am looking for admission of the number I indicated above the one you propose to me is not suitable...there are aluminum holes that are no longer in good condition and the water passes under the seal and arrives in oil. then maybe I can put a fiber seal wider than the plastic seal oem

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1 minute ago, Charlotte2 said:

You have understood very well... I am looking for admission of the number I indicated above the one you propose to me is not suitable...there are aluminum holes that are no longer in good condition and the water passes under the seal and arrives in oil. then maybe I can put a fiber seal wider than the plastic seal oem

Please post a photo of your manifold.  A top view would help so we can see exactly what you have.

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16 minutes ago, justgary said:

Merci de poster une photo de votre collecteur. Une vue de dessus nous aiderait à voir exactement ce que vous avez.

mini_22051001372426202817889145.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Charlotte2 said:

mini_22051001372426202817889145.jpg

Sorry I don’t have a picture here.. I wanted to replace the plastic seal with the one edelbrock in pho...to be safer wider and no longer have a water leak.?

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@Charlotte2 - Bonjour:-)  For the Chevrolet SBC there are several different intake manifold gaskets available, in different thickness' and different intake port shapes.   Here are some of the available options from Summit Racing (a speed shop):  

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/fel-pro/part-type/intake-manifold-gaskets/make/chevrolet/engine-size/5-7l-350/engine-family/chevy-small-block-gen-i

If I understand your predicament, either the cylinder head face or the intake manifold face is corroded and to get flat you may need to have it cleaned up.  Dart Mfg offers a spacer plate to make up the gap or to match the ports:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-62210002/make/chevrolet

I have seen people use multiple gaskets although that is not recommended.  When you repair the issue, be very careful on assembly to ensure a good seal, the thin part of the gasket along the intake ports tend to move.  It is common to dimple the surface to create a better grip for the gasket.

If you have any trouble with translation let me know, my French is very rusty...

 

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11 minutes ago, Woodski said:

@Charlotte2 - Bonjour :-) Pour la Chevrolet SBC, il existe plusieurs joints de collecteur d'admission différents, de différentes épaisseurs et différentes formes d'orifices d'admission. Voici quelques-unes des options disponibles chez Summit Racing (un magasin de vitesse):  

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/fel-pro/part-type/intake-manifold-gaskets/make/chevrolet/engine-size/5-7l-350/engine-family/chevy-small- bloc-gen-i

Si je comprends votre situation, la face de la culasse ou la face du collecteur d'admission est corrodée et pour être à plat, vous devrez peut-être la nettoyer. Dart Mfg propose une plaque d'espacement pour combler l'écart ou pour faire correspondre les ports :

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/drt-62210002/make/chevrolet

J'ai vu des gens utiliser plusieurs joints bien que ce ne soit pas recommandé. Lorsque vous réparez le problème, faites très attention au montage pour assurer une bonne étanchéité, la partie fine du joint le long des lumières d'admission a tendance à bouger. Il est courant de creuser la surface pour créer une meilleure adhérence pour le joint.

Si vous avez des problèmes avec la traduction faites le moi savoir, mon français est très rouillé...

 

Hello superb your translation! I ordered the high performance Holley seals at 0.125" (3.1mm) thickness 
I fill the missing material hole with aluminum epoxy and glue them together with "perfect deal"
Some people say it should hold water passages. Currently I have at least 0.200" (5 mm) of lift around the water passages .. This should be enough. 
Thanks again for the advice!!

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8 minutes ago, Woodski said:

If you have any trouble with translation let me know, my French is very rusty...

Google translate is not used to converting words used for engine parts, so it takes a few posts here to figure out what part is under discussion.  They may actually refer to "spark plugs" as "candles," but I somehow doubt it.

I decided long ago that French is a curious language where every letter is silent.  I hear sounds in the spoken language, but they don't seem to correlate well with the written language.  C'est la vie, I suppose.

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5 minutes ago, justgary said:

Google Translate n'est pas habitué à convertir les mots utilisés pour les pièces de moteur, il faut donc quelques messages ici pour déterminer quelle partie est en discussion. Ils peuvent en fait désigner les "bougies d'allumage" comme des "bougies", mais j'en doute d'une manière ou d'une autre.

J'ai décidé il y a longtemps que le français est une langue curieuse où chaque lettre est muette. J'entends des sons dans la langue parlée, mais ils ne semblent pas bien corrélés avec la langue écrite. C'est la vie, je suppose.

You are right...many French words mean the same thing 
Engine spatiale is also wax candle...admission in French this so-called "Pipe" which also means the favors of a lady...lol
It’s strange.
But I understand very well with the translations you do...thank you

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