pressure fuel indmar mpi year 2000

[Charlotte2]

hello everyone I come back to you because I want to have advice

Engine indmar 5,7 v8 350 ci MPI hammerhead 365hp from year 2000

My injection ramp pressure is like this

Key and idle at 650 rpm: 37psi
2000 rpm: 35psi
3000 rpm: 34 psi

The only time it goes up to 43psi is at acceleration.

Is it normal not to have 43 psi all the time

when I debranche the pressure regulator hose (which goes to intake) there are 43psi all the time...

I tried a pressure regulator that I had in stock and measure the same

Can you tell me more?

thank you friends!!
 

[Bozboat]

1 hour ago, Charlotte2 said:

hello everyone I come back to you because I want to have advice

Engine indmar 5,7 v8 350 ci MPI hammerhead 365hp from year 2000

My injection ramp pressure is like this

Key and idle at 650 rpm: 37psi
2000 rpm: 35psi
3000 rpm: 34 psi

The only time it goes up to 43psi is at acceleration.

Is it normal not to have 43 psi all the time

when I debranche the pressure regulator hose (which goes to intake) there are 43psi all the time...

I tried a pressure regulator that I had in stock and measure the same

Can you tell me more?

thank you friends!!
 

Consult the Bakes Resource Guide

[Charlotte2]

16 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

Consult the Bakes Resource Guide

thank you I have already seen this document but it is not clear in translation for me that is why I am asking for help here ... thank you friends

[BlindSquirrel]

Turn key without starting should be 43-45  PSI  

Idle 35-38  PSI

Full throttle ~5000 rpm is 43-45  PSI

Sounds like you need a new pump or regulator. 

Edited November 12, 2021 by BlindSquirrel

[Charlotte2]

19 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

Turn key without starting should be 43-45  PSI  

Idle 35-38  PSI

Full throttle ~5000 rpm is 43-45  PSI

Sounds like you need a new pump or regulator. 

thanks for your analysis, the problem is that at idle the engine runs too rich blue smoke and gasoline odor... I changed injector wire candles, candles, finger igniter, adjustable igniter... but the only time where the pressure is good now is at idle....

[Bozboat]

27 minutes ago, Charlotte2 said:

thanks for your analysis, the problem is that at idle the engine runs too rich blue smoke and gasoline odor... I changed injector wire candles, candles, finger igniter, adjustable igniter... but the only time where the pressure is good now is at idle....

Low pressure generally indicates a bad fuel pump 

high pressure is a bad fuel pressure regulator 

As your fuel pressure is low, you should consider replacing the fuel pump. 

The fuel smell may indicate a bad fuel injector or two. I would have the fuel injectors rebuilt and matched and see if that helped 

Blue smoke is usually burnt oil.  The gas smell could also be a leak or decaying fuel lines. 

[Charlotte2]

1 hour ago, Bozboat said:

Une basse pression indique généralement une mauvaise pompe à carburant 

la haute pression est un mauvais régulateur de pression de carburant 

Comme votre pression de carburant est faible, vous devriez envisager de remplacer la pompe à carburant. 

L'odeur de carburant peut indiquer un mauvais injecteur de carburant ou deux. Je ferais reconstruire et assortir les injecteurs de carburant et voir si cela a aidé 

La fumée bleue est généralement de l'huile brûlée. L'odeur de gaz pourrait également être une fuite ou des conduites de carburant en décomposition. 

thank you ... it's amazing that when I disconnect the pipe that connects the pressure reducer to the intake, the pressure goes up to 46 psi at idle as faster rpm ..

[Charlotte2]

Hello everyone, I found an article that I attach to you that explains that if have debranche the vacuum hose of the pressure regulator, we have the exact pressure of the injection ramp.. in my case when I debranche I have permanently 43 psi... can be pump and regulator are OK
Here is the link (in French to translate with Google)
Have a good day

http://www.dethomaso.fr/article-fiche-pratique-injection-regulateur-de-pression-essence-67364121.html

[justgary]

On 11/13/2021 at 5:58 AM, Charlotte2 said:

Hello everyone, I found an article that I attach to you that explains that if have debranche the vacuum hose of the pressure regulator, we have the exact pressure of the injection ramp.. in my case when I debranche I have permanently 43 psi... can be pump and regulator are OK
Here is the link (in French to translate with Google)
Have a good day

http://www.dethomaso.fr/article-fiche-pratique-injection-regulateur-de-pression-essence-67364121.html

You got full pressure when you disconnected the vacuum side of the regulator, so perhaps your pump is still good.  The regulator is by far the cheaper part.  Try replacing that first.

[Charlotte2]

On 11/14/2021 at 3:58 PM, justgary said:

Vous avez obtenu la pleine pression lorsque vous avez déconnecté le côté vide du régulateur, alors peut-être que votre pompe est toujours bonne. Le régulateur est de loin la partie la moins chère. Essayez de le remplacer d'abord.

Indeed, I do not have very distant values and the only problem I have is an extreme consumption and smoke in slow motion, rather gray than blue with strong smell of gasoline at the exhaust.. not elsewhere.
The injectors were changed 1 year ago by reconditioning from rockauto with the board of the forum.. FJ164
I tested another regulator it’s ditto
the spark plugs, the threads the cap and the finger ignition is new...
I. get another pressure regulator in a few days
But with the values I get, I should know if the pump or regulator is OK or not?
thank you good day

[justgary]

Your fuel pressure should be fairly constant at 3 Bar (44 PSI) or just below at all engine speeds.

You might want to check the temperature sender that the ECM reads.  It will increase the fuel delivery if it thinks the engine is cold.  You can test it with an Ohm meter.

@formulabenmight pop in here with his photo showing which sensor is the correct one.

[Charlotte2]

44 minutes ago, justgary said:

Votre pression de carburant doit être assez constante à 3 bars (44 PSI) ou juste en dessous à tous les régimes du moteur.

Vous voudrez peut-être vérifier l'expéditeur de température lu par l'ECM. Il augmentera le débit de carburant s'il pense que le moteur est froid. Vous pouvez le tester avec un ohmmètre.

@formulabenpourrait apparaître ici avec sa photo montrant quel capteur est le bon.

thank the sensor has been checked and it is OK..so what you are telling me my pressure is not good?

[formulaben]

[RyanSkiVT]

I was having a similar issue on my 2002 LXI with it running really rich at idle. Replacing the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor solved it. Formulaben did a great thread showing how to do it and it was super easy and cheap. Thanks Formulaben.

 

[justgary]

3 hours ago, RyanWakesetter2002LXI said:

I was having a similar issue on my 2002 LXI with it running really rich at idle. Replacing the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor solved it. Formulaben did a great thread showing how to do it and it was super easy and cheap. Thanks Formulaben.

 

In that case, I would try a good cleaning inside the throttle body.  A can of spray cleaner should do it.  Follow the directions and make sure to get all of the side passages.  Open the throttle to make sure you get the edge of the butterfly also.

[Charlotte2]

11 hours ago, RyanWakesetter2002LXI said:

I was having a similar issue on my 2002 LXI with it running really rich at idle. Replacing the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor solved it. Formulaben did a great thread showing how to do it and it was super easy and cheap. Thanks Formulaben.

 

thank you for all your messages!!
the tps sensor is new.
the idle valve seems to work because cold when I turn on it turns at about 1000 rpm and goes down in a minute to about 650 rpm

I’m worried that someone wrote that I had to be at 44 PSI permanently... in slow motion, where there was smoke and smell gasoline I am at 34/35 psi even at 3000 rpm

 

[justgary]

17 hours ago, Charlotte2 said:

thank the sensor has been checked and it is OK..so what you are telling me my pressure is not good?

I am telling you that the ECM assumes that the fuel pressure is constant at 3 Bar.  In reality, the regulator usually keeps the pressure between 38 and 42 PSI.  I think 34 PSI is too low.

Even if your idle control motor is working OK, it might still need to be cleaned.  Carbon can build up and cause funny things to happen.  You should be able to use a can of spray carb cleaner with the throttle open to get most of the parts clean without removing the throttle body.

[justgary]

@Charlotte2- Any chance you can build a MEFI cable for yourself?  We have software available for you to use on a PC to read engine data.

The parts list required is (you can probably get them from Farnell or other distributor in Europe):

TTL-232R-5V-WE - USB RS232/5V TTL Cable

12045808 - Delphi Connector Housing

12124264 - Connector Lock (cover)

12045773 - Pins (You can figure out how to crimp them with pliers; buy spares)

15324973 - Cable Seal (Not required, but the wires fit better with them)

The wiring diagram is simple:

[Charlotte2]

30 minutes ago, justgary said:

@Charlotte2- Avez-vous la possibilité de construire vous-même un câble MEFI ? Nous mettons à votre disposition un logiciel que vous pouvez utiliser sur un PC pour lire les données du moteur.

La liste des pièces requises est (vous pouvez probablement les obtenir auprès de Farnell ou d'un autre distributeur en Europe) :

TTL-232R-5V-WE - Câble USB RS232/5V TTL

12045808 - Boîtier de connecteur Delphi

12124264 - Verrou de connecteur (couvercle)

12045773 - Broches (Vous pouvez comprendre comment les sertir avec des pinces ; acheter des pièces de rechange)

15324973 - Joint de câble (non requis, mais les fils s'y adaptent mieux)

Le schéma de câblage est simple :

ah great. yes I’m very interested!! I’ll look at how to order the parts right away!!
How are you gonna get the software?

[Charlotte2]

2 minutes ago, Charlotte2 said:

ah great. yes I’m very interested!! I’ll look at how to order the parts right away!!
How are you gonna get the software?

 

33 minutes ago, justgary said:

@Charlotte2- Any chance you can build a MEFI cable for yourself?  We have software available for you to use on a PC to read engine data.

The parts list required is (you can probably get them from Farnell or other distributor in Europe):

TTL-232R-5V-WE - USB RS232/5V TTL Cable

12045808 - Delphi Connector Housing

12124264 - Connector Lock (cover)

12045773 - Pins (You can figure out how to crimp them with pliers; buy spares)

15324973 - Cable Seal (Not required, but the wires fit better with them)

The wiring diagram is simple:

maybe I’ll look to make the order on Amazon. com because it’s fast coming to Europe

[Steve B.]

I'm wondering if this is an ignition issue. Which could be ECM related as justgary say's. But, could also be just not enough spark to burn the fuel correctly.

Steve B.

[Charlotte2]

16 minutes ago, Steve B. said:

Je me demande si c'est un problème d'allumage. Ce qui pourrait être lié à l'ECM, comme le dit Justgary. Mais, il se peut aussi qu'il n'y ait pas assez d'étincelles pour brûler correctement le carburant.

Steve B.

cap, finger lighter, wire and candle new.. I tried a new coil it’s the same.. candles are black...

[Steve B.]

Is the boat new to you? Has the boat been running fine until recently?

Steve B.

[Charlotte2]

12 minutes ago, Steve B. said:

Is the boat new to you? Has the boat been running fine until recently?

Steve B.

not two years ago.. after all the changes always the same... except my smoke in idle and a small increase in fuel all the rest works flawless.. Easy start, turns very well even with weight...

[justgary]

3 hours ago, Steve B. said:

But, could also be just not enough spark to burn the fuel correctly.

Good point.

@Charlotte2, what spark plugs (candles to google translate) did you put in it?  It is possible that they are too short if you put the wrong ones in.