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2018 VLX Battery Switch to ACR Combine Type vs 1, 1+2, 2


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BlitzedVLX
Posted (edited)

Has anyone switched out the oem battery switch to the ACR style. I found out last night that it appears the ACR switch is larger and will not fit into the factory housing box. Also does anyone know how I should wire it up? 

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CHVzuYYugiA4ioyc9

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wQqQn18pSBbyYjSG7

Edited by BlitzedVLX
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Posted (edited)

You bought the wrong switch.  That is the larger E series switch.  You want the M series switch that is like the existing one in your boat.  (Hint - that is what the letter in the middle of the dial means)

https://www.bluesea.com/products/6011/m-Series_Mini_Dual_Circuit_Plus_Battery_Switch_-_Red

Edited by oldjeep
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BlitzedVLX
15 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

You bought the wrong switch.  That is the larger E series switch.  You want the M series switch that is like the existing one in your boat.  (Hint - that is what the letter in the middle of the dial means)

https://www.bluesea.com/products/6011/m-Series_Mini_Dual_Circuit_Plus_Battery_Switch_-_Red

Do i also need the m series smaller acr or will the acr that came with the e series switch work?

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Just now, BlitzedVLX said:

Do i also need the m series smaller acr or will the acr that came with the e series switch work?

I don't know that there are 2 ACR sizes, but it shouldn't matter.  The main difference between the M and e series switches is the physical space they fit in.

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3 minutes ago, BlitzedVLX said:

Looks like the M ACR is rated for 65 Amps and the Bigger ACR  is rated for 120 Amps.

The M switch is rated for 300A continuous and 450A intermittent

The E switch is rated for 350A continuous and 525A intermittent

 

Either switch will be fine (since malibu installs the M switches from the factory).  But you will want the bigger ACR - which looks like one I helped install a week or so ago.

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You just need to source the smaller body switch and higher rated ACR a-la-carte rather then in a retail packaged kit. 

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BlitzedVLX
On 5/13/2021 at 6:25 PM, MLA said:

You just need to source the smaller body switch and higher rated ACR a-la-carte rather then in a retail packaged kit. 

Great I ordered the new switch and larger ACR. 

What AWG wire should I run from the switch to the ACR? I should only need 1-2 feet

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7 minutes ago, BlitzedVLX said:

Great I ordered the new switch and larger ACR. 

What AWG wire should I run from the switch to the ACR? I should only need 1-2 feet

Same size as the rest of your battery cables at a minimum.

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BlitzedVLX
Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Same size as the rest of your battery cables at a minimum.

It looks like I have a mix of wiring. Main battery appears to be 2/0 then you can see a smaller gauge 

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Nv2t5m32cHktZ5RFA

Edited by BlitzedVLX
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3 hours ago, BlitzedVLX said:

Great I ordered the new switch and larger ACR. 

What AWG wire should I run from the switch to the ACR? I should only need 1-2 feet

The only amperage going through the ACR, is the alternator output. So with a short distance, a typical 90A alternator will not need a very large gauge. 8GA is enough, but I tend to over build and use 4ga. 

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BlitzedVLX
On 5/17/2021 at 4:43 PM, MLA said:

The only amperage going through the ACR, is the alternator output. So with a short distance, a typical 90A alternator will not need a very large gauge. 8GA is enough, but I tend to over build and use 4ga. 

Got it thanks. I ordered 4ga wire to run to the ACR. 

 

I am a bit unsure how I go about wiring from the current switch to the new switch. Below is the current setup using the 1, 1+2, 2 switch. 

 

spacer.png

 

Battery setup. The battery with the white tag on the red cable is labeled B1 and this is going to #1 on the switch. I believe this would be considered the Starting Batt + house loads?

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I plan to follow this wiring diagram

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Is my thinking here correct going from the old switch to the new 6011 switch? 

#1 connections on old switch go to lower #2 post on new switch 

#2 connections on old switch go to lower #1 post on new switch

Output connections on old switch go to upper #2 post on new switch

 

Then wire as shown to the ACR. 

 

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On the new switch it's important that one post on each side of the switch ONLY runs between the switch and one battery, and that all other connections are "stacked" on the other post (exception being bilge pumps if they are not hard wired directly to the battery).

That's an older version of my diagram because it has the stereo distro block wired to a battery rather than to the switch, but otherwise it's "mostly right."  Unfortunately the "good" version of my diagram was eaten by photobucket.

image.thumb.png.77c5a0d6eaf0e9bf16a755f35f5f0995.png

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2 hours ago, BlitzedVLX said:

I believe this would be considered the Starting Batt + house loads?

It needs to be one or the other. 

 

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BlitzedVLX
Posted (edited)
On 5/20/2021 at 12:07 PM, shawndoggy said:

image.thumb.png.a4b4652f17f4dd88b069ae9cf37bbd4f.png

The "other stuff" should be on the top posts of the switch, along with the wires from the ACR.

Thanks so much!

 

Am I understanding it correctly?

 

Yellow 1 and 2 (amps) go to upper post #1 of switch

Blue #3 is what I believe to be the starter goes to upper post 2 of switch

Purple #4 goes to the Hi-Amp Breaker does this one also go to upper post 2 of switch?

 

spacer.png

 

 

 

Edited by BlitzedVLX
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59 minutes ago, BlitzedVLX said:

Thanks so much!

 

Am I understanding it correctly?

 

Yellow 1 and 2 (amps) go to upper post #1 of switch

Blue #3 is what I believe to be the starter goes to upper post 2 of switch

Purple #4 goes to the Hi-Amp Breaker does this one also go to upper post 2 of switch?

 

 

It's a fielder's choice and depends on how YOU want to set up YOUR system.  Do you want only your stereo to draw from one battery while the engine isn't running, and for the other battery to handle "everything else" (starting and house loads), OR do you want the stereo AND house loads all on one battery, and the other battery only handle starting?  There isn't really a right or wrong answer.  For instance, if you frequently float with the stereo cranking and filling ballast, it might make sense to have stereo and house loads on one battery, so that if you run that one all the way down you have a battery in reserve to get started again.  

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BlitzedVLX
56 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

It's a fielder's choice and depends on how YOU want to set up YOUR system.  Do you want only your stereo to draw from one battery while the engine isn't running, and for the other battery to handle "everything else" (starting and house loads), OR do you want the stereo AND house loads all on one battery, and the other battery only handle starting?  There isn't really a right or wrong answer.  For instance, if you frequently float with the stereo cranking and filling ballast, it might make sense to have stereo and house loads on one battery, so that if you run that one all the way down you have a battery in reserve to get started again.  

Float frequently with stereo cranking and filling ballast is the way I want to go. So should I connect the red from the Hi-amp breaker with the two amp red wires?

 

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3 hours ago, BlitzedVLX said:

Float frequently with stereo cranking and filling ballast is the way I want to go. So should I connect the red from the Hi-amp breaker with the two amp red wires?

I would love to answer this question, but your switch is different than mine.  If you look at the above schematic, the 2 circuits are completely separated until the start battery is seeing charging voltage, then it parallels the house circuit with the start (and alternator) circuit.  Your switch won't allow the exact same scenario, but can be very similar; what you can do is isolate the starter from the house loads/house battery and tie it to one of the batteries directly, say post #1 for example, BUT unlike the house loads, that lead will be "hot" to the starter at all times, so if you use the Battery 2 setting on the switch, then it will start with Battery 1, and then the ACR will start charging the 2nd battery and power house loads.

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Right or wrong way is not too far off regarding the wiring configuration. If you put the audio drawing off one bank and "everything else" drawing off the cranking bank, you run the risk of draining both banks at anchor. The way I look at it, if its not needed to make the boat go, its a house load. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

A bit off topic but not far. What is the preferred way to use jumper cables from a good charged dual battery boat to a dead Dual battery boat? From single batt on good boat to single batt on dead boat? Both boats in 1+2 both boats in 1 or 2?

 

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16 minutes ago, dalt1 said:

A bit off topic but not far. What is the preferred way to use jumper cables from a good charged dual battery boat to a dead Dual battery boat? From single batt on good boat to single batt on dead boat? Both boats in 1+2 both boats in 1 or 2?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Eagleboy99 said:

 

Running to the dead boat ground connection to "bare metal" on the donor is gonna be lots of fun.  Dad must not have jump started many wake boats?

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1 hour ago, dalt1 said:

A bit off topic but not far. What is the preferred way to use jumper cables from a good charged dual battery boat to a dead Dual battery boat? From single batt on good boat to single batt on dead boat? Both boats in 1+2 both boats in 1 or 2?

 

With a 1-2-both boat, I'd probably run 1 on the good boat and both on the dead boat.  That way if the dead boat completely discharges the good boat's battery 1 before starting, you still have a good battery to fall back on on the good boat.

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