Piggyback Options - More Alternatives

[BearCreekBum]

@jwl019

When you get your bill of materials figured out let me know. You are going to do mine also but just don’t know it. 

[goodmatt78]

Here you go from WakeMakers:

 

You also need a bunch of hose clamps.

[jwl019]

5 hours ago, BearCreekBum said:

@jwl019

When you get your bill of materials figured out let me know. You are going to do mine also but just don’t know it. 

I am thinking the piggyback option should be easier/faster than the reversible pumps I installed in my 2010!  May not work as fast, but really not in a rush to fill and drain.

I will definitely come help, count me in!

Edited August 24, 2020 by jwl019
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[jwl019]

5 hours ago, goodmatt78 said:

Here you go from WakeMakers:

 

You also need a bunch of hose clamps.

Thanks!

Looking over this, it's roughly $45 cheaper than the Wakemakers kits. I am definitely game for saving a little $ for a change!

A bag of hose clamps at Lowe's isn't terribly expensive!

[goodmatt78]

3 minutes ago, jwl019 said:

Thanks!

Looking over this, it's roughly $45 cheaper than the Wakemakers kits. I am definitely game for saving a little $ for a change!

A bag of hose clamps at Lowe's isn't terribly expensive!

Well the wake maker kit isn't for fly high sacs, so you would have to purchase additional adapters for the bags.   I will say it took a few hours to make the first side, then much quicker for the other.  I will say my setup probably fits better than the WM as i cut everything to the minimum length.

Get a bag of 20 or 25 hose clamps.

Edited August 24, 2020 by goodmatt78

[YeloBlammo]

On 8/24/2020 at 2:17 PM, goodmatt78 said:

Here you go from WakeMakers:

 

You also need a bunch of hose clamps.

 

You mentioned not using a check valve and just running the vented loop as high as possible. You have a check valve in your BOM?

[goodmatt78]

On 10/8/2020 at 12:18 PM, YeloBlammo said:

 

You mentioned not using a check valve and just running the vented loop as high as possible. You have a check valve in your BOM?

That check valve is on the intake which is required.  The WM system also has a check on the vent line which I don't use.

[goodmatt78]

BTW....I have been using this system all summer and it has worked perfectly every time.

[YeloBlammo]

Is there need for a check valve if you have the vented loop? Don't they both accomplish the same thing or am I wrong?

[goodmatt78]

Good question....if you can get the top of the vented loop higher than the top of the piggy back bag, you should be OK.  My guess is that this may be difficult and why the check is needed.   My boat only had a hose loop (no vent), so the check made sense.

[dcwilson]

On 10/13/2020 at 5:58 AM, goodmatt78 said:

That check valve is on the intake which is required.  The WM system also has a check on the vent line which I don't use.

I just wanted to comment on this. I plumbed my sacs in towards the end of this season following this design and used them only 3 times I believe. I definitely am glad I pieced my own plumbing together especially on my boat because it is a VTX which I think has a little less room for plumbing. It gave me the ability to route the hoses in a really nice and tidy manner depending on what they had to go around. Definitely a lot better install than a pre-made kit would have been. I am not running a vent check valve with no issues. However I do have the check valve on the intake line which I think is required. I had absolutely no issues with my left side but my right side I had problems with getting it to fill, as in it wouldn't fill at all. What I think happened was the intake line coming from the check valve into the first Y was routed up a bit too high (because the hose angles aren't ideal with running the Y's in reverse like goodmatt has suggested, which works great by the way) and residual water in the line was sitting on top of the check valve, as a result the pump couldn't create enough pressure to push the check valve open and it wouldn't fill at all. My left side was routed lower and didn't have any issues so I believe this was the problem. I have since routed the right side as low as possible, trying to get the check valve as horizontal as possible too. Unfortunately freezing temps have arrived and I can't actually test it now to make sure it works so I'll have to wait until spring , but it's the only think I could make sense as to why it wasn't filling. So just a heads up for anyone doing this, make sure not too much water can sit on top of those checkvalves on the intake side. 

This was my parts list to complete this:

Fly High Bag Thread x 3/4" Flow-Rite Fitting W736
8 @ $8.99 = $71.92

WakeMAKERS Inline Check Valve Fitting Size 3/4"
2 @ $15.99 = $31.98

WakeMAKERS Hose Barb Wye Fitting Size 3/4"
4 @ $3.99 = $15.96

WakeMAKERS Ballast Hose - Black Size 3/4"
50ft @ $0.99 = $49.50

Stainless Steel Hose Clamp Size 3/4"
30 @ $0.99 = $29.70

WakeMAKERS Flow Rite 3/4" Elbow Quick Release Connector W742
8 @ $3.99 = $31.92

Total: $230.98

I was going to order 40ft of hose but just ordered 50 instead because it was 10 more dollars. I am really glad I did because I used all of it except I think 4ft. However, I reused the OEM hard tank vent lines as the rear bag to tank connections and had I not done that I would have actually been short on hose. 

Edited October 15, 2020 by dcwilson

[WooPig]

I ordered the adapters directly from Flo Rite and everything else through Wakemakers.

MA-025:  Same as W736 - $3.13 each

MA-029:  Same as W742 - $1.82 each

Edited December 16, 2020 by WooPig

[Gillespk]

I just purchased a 2008 VLX and working on ballast ideas. I found some Ronix tapered bags that are 550, which works for me since I don’t want the lockers filled (want room for vests and stuff). The Ronix bags only have 1 port on top and 3 on bottom. With the vent line on top, is it ok to have both fill lines on the bottom front ports?

[MLA]

8 hours ago, Gillespk said:

With the vent line on top, is it ok to have both fill lines on the bottom front ports?

Not an issue if using a reversible pump to fill/drain. Could be problematic if filling with an aerator pump. Filling to the bottom creates extra head pressure and is prone to passive draining. 

[goodmatt78]

1 hour ago, MLA said:

Not an issue if using a reversible pump to fill/drain. Could be problematic if filling with an aerator pump. Filling to the bottom creates extra head pressure and is prone to passive draining. 

Filling from bottom requires a check valve with aerator pump and will be slow.

Edited January 16, 2021 by goodmatt78

[YeloBlammo]

I ended up finally installing this summer following all the info here.

It works great. Thanks everyone.

 

I have a lot more weight in the back now. It puts my swim deck ~6" under water when sitting still.

I haven't timed it fill/ drain yet but it's pretty full by the time we're ready to get in the water

Edited September 5, 2022 by YeloBlammo