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Texan32

2018 Axis MC-1 Install

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Texan32
Posted (edited)

I wanted to share my experience with replacing the factory (MB400/MC-30) sound system that came in my T23.  I bought the boat used but it came with SP2.  While installing the new system, i uncovered some things that i really wasn't thrilled about.

Factory SP2 seems to have the following setup.

HX-6:

- channel 1/2 - center and stern speakers connected in parallel (right left split) at 2 ohms.

- channel 3/4 - bow speakers at 4 ohms

- channel 5/6 - bridged to the sub at 4 ohms

HX-2:

- channel 1/2 - 4 tower speakers connected in parallel (right/left split) at 2 ohms  2 Amps. 

While the amps are rated to run 2 ohms per channel, I'm not a big fan of parallelling speakers or mismatched channels on the same amp. 

For the control head, I was able to carefully slowly cut the silver dash trim ring enough to maintain integrity in the plastic AND allow the controller to be mounted in it.  I also had to use a scrap piece of aluminum to make the mounting bracket work.

I ran new speaker wires form the stern speaker pair to the amplifiers.  i also ran two additional wires in the tower speakers.  I added a Kenwood XR900.5 that was laying around unused.  I'm using 4 channels to run the tower speakers.  The HX-6 is running the 6 cabin speakers, the HX-2 is bridged and running the sub.  Basically, i added a spare amp so that every speaker is on its own amp channel.  Yes, i know the Kenwood isn't "waterproof"  But, FREE (and a damn good amp) trumps the cost of replacing the HX-2 for another HX-6.  Also, i decided to keep the HX-2 to run the sub because it has more RMS power than the 5th (sub) channel on the XR900.5.  If the Kenwood had the same power rating on the sub channel, i could have just ditched the HX-2 and ran all 5 channels of the XR900.5.

I ended up using all 4 zones of the MC-1.  I do like that the HX-6 allows you to link 2 4 or all 6 channels to a single input.  So, Zone 1 is running the 6 cabin speakers.  Zone 2 is running the Sub.  And, zone 3 and 4 were used on the Kenwood amp (since you can't link the outputs to one input...and i didnt want to use an RCA splitter) to run the 4 channels for the towers.

I kept the timer circuit in play (nice option since the MC-1 takes a few seconds to boot up).  The timer is located on the back side of the panel that the amps are bolted to. Since the MC-1 maintains all of its settings when all power is lost, i chose to tie the constant hot and ignition wire on the MC-1 to the timed 12 volts line.  This way, when i kill the main power switch, the radio cant continue to pull power.  The black box remote lines were used for the amps. 

I made a schematic of what the factory stereo wiring looks like.

 

 

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Schematic.jpg

Edited by Texan32

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Texan32

Small update.  With both the ignition and battery wire tied to the timer circuit, when the timer timed out, the entire stereo would do a "hard" shutdown.  This resulted in a loud, high pitched squeal and pop form all speakers.  Thinking that the radio needs to do a "softer" shutdown i decided to run the battery wire to a main (switchable) battery connection.  Radio works perfect now!  Now, when you turn the ignition off and the timer runs its course, the MC-1 actually runs its normal shutdown sequence.  No pops, no squeals.

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MLA
On 3/3/2020 at 10:50 PM, Texan32 said:

i chose to tie the constant hot and ignition wire on the MC-1 to the timed 12 volts line

This is why you got that nasty turn off noise. The timer is switching what should be a constant. Your timer, or rocker switch, only needs to interrupt the switched IGN to turn the unit off. 

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Texan32
44 minutes ago, MLA said:

This is why you got that nasty turn off noise. The timer is switching what should be a constant. Your timer, or rocker switch, only needs to interrupt the switched IGN to turn the unit off. 

My initial test was tying both together and testing the "memory" function of the settings.  Since all the settings were being saved when both powers were dumped,as a matter of convenience,  i just used the one power source for the timer.  Well, the MC-1 has a power down sequence it runs thru when the ignition is cut.  It didnt like both powers being killed a the same time.  It wants to "power down" on its terms. 

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MLA
1 hour ago, Texan32 said:

Well, the MC-1 has a power down sequence it runs thru when the ignition is cut. 

This is common with most source units. With the IGN hot and you kill the constant B+ at the same time, you may likely experience what you did. 

Personally, I prefer to skip the timer relay and just relocate the IGN circuit off the key switch and to a rocker. key no longer has ANY influence on the source unit, so no need to go from RUN to ACC in any amount of time, just turn the key to OFF.   

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Cboom12

I have sp3 on my 18. I’m considering this upgrade. Did u notice a significant improvement in performance after all of this? I do not feel my stereo is performing as it should. I know it’s a lot more expensive boat but my buddies Supra factory stereo blows mine away. 

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Texan32
Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, Cboom12 said:

I have sp3 on my 18. I’m considering this upgrade. Did u notice a significant improvement in performance after all of this? I do not feel my stereo is performing as it should. I know it’s a lot more expensive boat but my buddies Supra factory stereo blows mine away. 

short answer...it absolutely made a night and day difference!

Long answer....you have to remember, i added a 3rd amp (a spare from my old jeep) allowing every speaker to be on its own dedicated channel.   With every speaker being on its own channel, each pair can be gain adjusted/balanced to your liking.    I also replaced the WS sub (which has a buzzing problem that WS was not willing to help fix :mad:) with a JL 10 i had laying around (again, from the Jeep).  I completely re-made the mount panel as well as integrating a slot ported box.  The sub has never sounded so good!

So, several changes were made.

-MC-1, adding 4ch amp, putting EVERY speaker on its own 4ohm amp channel, replaced sub and added ported box.

Big happy buttons for me:

-volume knob (instead of the PITA push buttons)

-MUCH cleaner sound (no more low volume hiss)

-sub actually punches while not being overpowering at low volume level

-MC-1 remembers last input (and automatically connects to my phone as soon as it powers on)

-Zone (cabin/tower/sub) are gain/attenuation controls instead of a "volume".  once set, they dont reset back to 0 when the main volume is turned all the way down....this was a HUGE plus to me!!!

Edited by Texan32

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