2019 EZ Drive Fitment - After Market Stern Turn

[djheywood]

Does the EZ Turn bracket cover the holes left over after you remove the lights?  If so you just need to patch but no need to worry about it matching.  Maybe its partially exposed?

[gregtay]

On 5/5/2020 at 1:34 PM, COOP said:

The newer versions actual have this wire out of the plug for you. But yes, only issue is that the switch would have power even with the batteries off.

We've done six of these now. They have also made a change to end caps that cover the blades. Now the side next to the wedge is angled a bit.

Not sure if that is a change as much as it is an option. When you order you can choose just "grates" (that is standard) or you can pay a little more and get the ones in the photo (with the angle), or the non angled ones (also an option) which you can get in chrome or black.  I am sure the angle one helps a little more to get under the wedge but I wanted them to be black (and they didn't offer black angled :-/... figured if it doesn't work great I can always swap it later for the chrome angled ones.

[gregtay]

On 5/8/2020 at 2:49 AM, LucasC said:

Its a balmar xt-vt-170-ir2.  the main power lead that runs from the Alternator to starter motor is fused at 120Amp   Malibu sells the altinator with the right Power and earth lead , I ordered from them as not to void any warranty .

http://www.balmar.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/PDS-XT-VT-170-IR-IG.pdf

I Run 3 Batteries , Position 1 Boats electronics&stereo. has 2 batteries linked in parallel and Position 2 , 1x battery starter motor & thruster  

How much does Malibu charge for the alt upgrade kit?  And is that the best way to purchase (sounds like from Malibu it is more of a plug and play solution?)

[gregtay]

Just in case someone is looking for more in the way of specs and info on the drive unit and a bit more detailed install instructions I highly recommend checking out the info Imtra/ Side Power has listed on their site for their version of the drive.   It is possible to buy the unit from Imtra or one of their authorized dealers (lots of those around the US) and I had a distributor price one out for me back when Malibu first started offering it and before I had heard for EZ Drive. (retail price on the unit alone is about $3600) so the EzDrive bundle is quite a deal consider they have the kit ready to go with the hull stand off, etc.  Anyway... here is a link to the generic install instructions https://www.imtra.com/COLLATERAL/DOCUMENTS/ENGLISH-US/PRODUCTS/SX35-50-INSTALL-MANUAL.PDF. I think the EzDrive unit is similar to the SX35 version, I would guess Malibu uses the same one.  In the end the guys at EZDrive are doing the heavy lifting for us with the stand off bracket, bundling the shifter with switch, and creating model specific instructions which makes it super easy to upgrade our boats.

Edited June 12, 2020 by gregtay

[Alberta]

On 5/8/2020 at 3:49 AM, LucasC said:

Its a balmar xt-vt-170-ir2.  the main power lead that runs from the Alternator to starter motor is fused at 120Amp   Malibu sells the altinator with the right Power and earth lead , I ordered from them as not to void any warranty .

http://www.balmar.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/PDS-XT-VT-170-IR-IG.pdf

I Run 3 Batteries , Position 1 Boats electronics&stereo. has 2 batteries linked in parallel and Position 2 , 1x battery starter motor & thruster  

That model appears to be for the supercharged engine, with 2 mounting feet, for a Vortec engine.  I have a Monsoon 409 PCM and  am just finishing installing the Balmar XT-SF-170-IR , which was a perfect fit-  just had to add some spacers (washers) to the top mounting bolt once the bolt came through the top mounting plate on the alternator to get the right spacing for the engine cover mount.  We are making our own wire, not using Malibu's loom, so we'll be adding an inline 200 amp MEGA fuse between the alternator and starter.  I don't know how Malibu can use a 120 amp fuse when the alternator puts out 170 amp-the original alternator puts out 95 amps, and it had a 100 amp  inline fuse.   The inline fuse block we're using is quite a bit larger than the 100 amp inline fuse that was on the original alternator cable.  I don't know if the 170 Malibu has a similar size inline fuse for the 170 amp alternator to the 100 amp inline fuse that was on my motor.  If Malibu's fuse is smaller,  it might be a reason to use Malibu's wire loom.  I don't know if Malibu sells the wire loom separate from the alternator.  Balmar 170 amp alternator was $580 USD on Ebay (plus shipping to Canada on exchange on the $$).     

[LucasC]

10 hours ago, Alberta said:

That model appears to be for the supercharged engine, with 2 mounting feet, for a Vortec engine.  I have a Monsoon 409 PCM and  am just finishing installing the Balmar XT-SF-170-IR , which was a perfect fit-  just had to add some spacers (washers) to the top mounting bolt once the bolt came through the top mounting plate on the alternator to get the right spacing for the engine cover mount.  We are making our own wire, not using Malibu's loom, so we'll be adding an inline 200 amp MEGA fuse between the alternator and starter.  I don't know how Malibu can use a 120 amp fuse when the alternator puts out 170 amp-the original alternator puts out 95 amps, and it had a 100 amp  inline fuse.   The inline fuse block we're using is quite a bit larger than the 100 amp inline fuse that was on the original alternator cable.  I don't know if the 170 Malibu has a similar size inline fuse for the 170 amp alternator to the 100 amp inline fuse that was on my motor.  If Malibu's fuse is smaller,  it might be a reason to use Malibu's wire loom.  I don't know if Malibu sells the wire loom separate from the alternator.  Balmar 170 amp alternator was $580 USD on Ebay (plus shipping to Canada on exchange on the $$).     

Malibu sent mine with upgraded heavier gauge lead with 170amp inline fuse.  

[asnowman]

Where did everyone source their power cables from? Regular automotive shops?

[gregtay]

8 minutes ago, asnowman said:

Where did everyone source their power cables from? Regular automotive shops?

I purchased marine rated 1/0 from Amazon.  Happy with the quality.

[djheywood]

I have used bestboatwire.com

their prices are pretty competitive. 

[asnowman]

I ended up ordering off ebay, including solder plugs, shrink tape and terminal ends. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-0-AWG-Gauge-Tinned-Marine-Battery-Cable-Flexible-SAE-J1127-SGT-PER-FOOT-UV-SUN-/292705293067

Hopefully it works out to be what i was expecting.

[walterlmitchell]

I have a 2019 Malibu 23LSV and I installed my EzDrive Thruster in May and have been using it this season. It is amazing! It makes life easier in so many ways. For example, when coming around to get a surfer you can use the thruster to turn the boat once you are close. It shortens the pickup time by about 1/2. 

I am pretty handy, but I am not a mechanic. I was able to do the install on my own in one day. Since I don’t usually work on boats it took me longer than normal. I was trying to be careful not to mess anything up! The scary part is cutting holes in the hull. As long as you measure it you will be fine.

A few notes on install:

Batteries: I have two batteries and the standard alternator and stereo. So far I have not had any problems with the low voltage warnings or battery drain. I find that I am not constantly using the thruster, it is usually used in short bursts. I also didn’t run the power all the way to the batteries. I used the positive post in front of the engine and I grounded (using 1/0) to the engine grounding post. I only needed about 7’ of wire.

Throttle: I replaced my throttle. It is awesome having it integrated. It was really easy to replace. Running the wire up the port gunwale was much easier than I expected.  

Mounting: This was probably the most tedious part of the install. Using the 1.75” doesn’t sit flat so some customization was needed. The instructions warn about this. It would probably be much easier to use a smaller washer and try to use a third pass through bolt. I also used marine sealant on the pass through elements just to be safe.

I have shared a link to some pictures and videos of my install.

Photos of Install

 

[cmargosi]

All,  Just an update to this thread.  I am not terribly mechanically inclined, so I had my dealer do the install.  It took about 8 hours because Yacht Group mistakenly did not include all the parts and it was their first one.  I also decided to upgrade to a three battery Optima setup so I don't have any issues (and there's no power source for a charger where I have my boat in dry storage).  I've been using it now for two months and I absolutely love having it.  Great for precise movements to the boat around a downed surfer and makes docking in tight quarters a breeze.  It does definitely draw some current, but I haven't had any problems with the upgraded battery setup.  I would agree that it's a "want" rather than a "need", but I'm very glad I had it done to my boat.  Makes life a lot easier when using and docking the boat.  I also find that you only need to shoot the thruster for 10-15 seconds to move the boat around in calm water.  I'd recommend.  Yacht Group was really good to deal with, as well.

 

Edited July 30, 2020 by cmargosi

[gregtay]

Wanted to share yet another EZ Drive thruster install.  I have been working with Derek at Yacht Controller from the early days of EZ Drive coming out.  At first I was in research mode working to understand what it would take to install a thruster and the pros/cons.  In the early days EZ Drive wasn't offered with the standoff that Malibu put on it from the factory but they quickly designed their own and added it. The other big hang up for me was the remote, I really wanted something right by my thumb to control the thruster, not a joystick mounted somewhere that turned off after a few mins. Well once again YC did some research and started offering a solution with the Livorsi controller with a switch. So it was finally time to upgrade the boat:).   Thanks to TMC I was able to gain a little more info on do's and don'ts and I made sure I had everything before I dug into the project.  Original intent was to have it done in the early summertime but my boat kept going back in the shop for warranty work :-/ and I wanted to prioritize that work.  Anyway, finally got around to the install.  I've installed towers, thru hulls, ect on my boats in the past so I am not to scared off by drilling holes in the hull. In fact I tend to trust my own work far more than Malibu's when it comes to properly cutting holes.  I took my time with the install because I wanted it done right.  Hard to say how many hours, I did it over two days and did dedicate a significant amount of time each day (maybe 4-5 hours to 8-10 hours total.)

The team at EZ Drive were fantastic with support and made sure I had the absolute latest install instructions and video for my boat.  They continue to tweak the install based on feedback which is great. We had a chance to use the thruster last week at the lake and it works great. This certainly isn't a "must have" item and I really encourage people to learn how to properly drive an inboard before just relying on a thruster, but it sure is a nice to have item.  Our new 23 doesn't respond very quickly when it is stopped and you need to get the back to swing around without much forward momentum and 2-3 seconds on the thruster really helps get the back end moving in the right direction. Also, the slip I was assigned last week at the lake was docking to the port side with a constant strong quartering tailwind in a VERY tight marina (without much wave break.. so I also had waves pushing me into the dock.) I also had an empty lift to my starboard (shared slip) and it didn't have any protection against the sharp ends of the metal bunk rails, so didn't want to drift that direction either.  The thruster made it significantly easier and kept me out of trouble.  When the wind was really blowing I wouldn't have attempted to get the boat into the slip without someone else on the boat to catch the dock or help if I got into trouble... but with the thruster I gave it a go and it was just enough to keep me where I needed to be. So in the end I am VERY happy to have it as a nice addition to the boat.

The install:  There are already quite a few install write ups so I will go with the key points for me: 

• I spent extra time on the holes making sure they were chamfered and smooth with no risk to spider cracking.  Take your time, do this right. 
• I went with 3M marine silicon instead of 5200 or 4200.  My reasoning was simply that it seems that this is what Malibu used on all their thruhulls on the transom. 4200 is probably the best sealant in this case.. but I followed the factory.
• My raw water intake is in the same area the thruster shaft sits but no conflict, I was able to slip the blue tube on even with the thruster fully mounted.
• I have both a heater and a fresh water flush kit and both add more water lines that were in the way and had to be secured a little better to keep things clean and less of a rats nest of lines.  Malibu sort of just lets lines run all over the place without much thought about the best way to run a line.
• My mounting location was flat inside the hull, so no grinding needed.  The big washer fit but I did trim one edge where the clearance was close just to make sure it was fully flush. My internal washer/nut setup was large rubber gasket, large thin metal washer, think nut, thin nut.
• Used 1/0 to the power block by the motor and the ground by the motor, so very short runs.  Thruster is "on" when the battery switch is on and off when it is off.   I might change this down the road (easy to do) to make it ignition controlled. Just need to swap the 12v wire going to the thruster switch with one that is ignition controlled
• All wires wrapped and protected.  1/0 power/ground run through the wire cavities near the stringers.  This resulted in a very clean install with all the wires very secure and out of the way (but did result in plenty of cuts and scratches from pulling things through the rough fiberglass.  Well worth the effort.
• I used the factory Livorsi controller and it uses a different harness connector so I put the matching connector on the wires coming from the ibox.  I wanted the 2020 style knob so I had already planned to upgrade my throttle controller from the 2019 style.. when I ordered it I just went with the switched version so that I had it if I ever did a thruster install (or found some other cool use for the switch... it is just a 12v switch so I am sure we can come up with other creative uses

Our typical usage is 2-4 second bursts vs. holding down the button for 30 seconds.  I had zero power issues, no warnings, no run down batteries, etc.  This was after 8 days on the lake and no land power to top off the batteries with quite a few "sit and listen to music in a cove" which was also pulling power down. So no concerns on the power/battery side of things.   I do plan to upgrade my alternator in the offseason (more for the stereo draw than the thruster) but for now no issues and i'd probably be fine if I didn't upgrade it.

Lots of install photos here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AieEhi2-cvZ98pM1RcGvF8KY-jnE6A?e=0YOTjL

Still working on some nice drone footage near the dock where it really helps.

 

 

[Setter2016]

I am a true novice so please have patience with my questions:

I have a 2016 LSV25 with the 440/450 raptor motor.  

1. For the extension that attaches to the rear of the boat, is there only three holes (port side top and bottom bolt, washer and nuts, and a center hole for wires)?  I believe this is what the EZ instructions say.  If so, why does everyone’s photos show 5 holes (port side top and bottom bolt, washer and nuts, starboard side top and bottom bolt, washer, nuts, and a center hole for wires)?

2.  Do I use 1 gauge (awg??) red and black wires from the EZ box to the positive post (red wire) and to the ground (black wire) or 2 gauge awg?  Sorry, the terms are new.

3.  Where is the engine ground (for black wire from EZ box)?  Photos would be great to get my bearing if possible on a similar engine.

4.  On the port side in the front of the engine compartment, there is a post that the Red battery cable runs to from the front of the boat.  Can I attach the red wire from EZ box to this or should I put it somewhere else.  If so, where?  Photos?

5. Where did you install the 225 amp breaker?  Photos?

6.  I have a standard alternator (95 amps) with three batteries, one for the engine and 2 for the audio.   I have a bigger sound system (4 amps, 4 tower wetsound 8 speakers, 6 interior wetsound speakers and a subwoofer.  I currently have no power issues even when drifting for a few hours listening to loud music.  With the ez thruster, will I need another battery and/or a bigger amp?

Finally, I want to thank everyone on this site.  The information is awesome and so helpful.  Sorry to be such a novice and ask so many questions.  Thanks again.

 

[COOP]

You WILL need to get a bigger alternator. We put a thruster on an M235 with a Raptor motor with a 95 amp alternator and it would almost kill the motor when using the thruster, voltage would drop to under 8 volts.

[Setter2016]

Thanks for the reply.  Regarding the alternator, EZ is saying you need a minimum of 175 amp alternator and Indmar is promoting a 170 amp set up for $1,400.00.  As that is very expensive, are there any less expensive alternatives and do they require extensive modifications?  Thanks.

 

[Eagleboy99]

And yet you can get a 160 amp alternator for PCM for under $300.  What is so special about Indmar's?

[COOP]

Indmars comes with some power wire and different brackets.

There are aftermarket marine alternators out there. 

We put one of these on a supercharged PCM. The boat had a thruster and upgraded stereo. At the time PCM said they didnt offer a high amp alt for the supercharged motor.

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/220-amp-marine-high-output-alternator-universal-mount.html

[gregtay]

11 hours ago, Setter2016 said:

I am a true novice so please have patience with my questions:

I have a 2016 LSV25 with the 440/450 raptor motor.  

1. For the extension that attaches to the rear of the boat, is there only three holes (port side top and bottom bolt, washer and nuts, and a center hole for wires)?  I believe this is what the EZ instructions say.  If so, why does everyone’s photos show 5 holes (port side top and bottom bolt, washer and nuts, starboard side top and bottom bolt, washer, nuts, and a center hole for wires)?

2.  Do I use 1 gauge (awg??) red and black wires from the EZ box to the positive post (red wire) and to the ground (black wire) or 2 gauge awg?  Sorry, the terms are new.

3.  Where is the engine ground (for black wire from EZ box)?  Photos would be great to get my bearing if possible on a similar engine.

4.  On the port side in the front of the engine compartment, there is a post that the Red battery cable runs to from the front of the boat.  Can I attach the red wire from EZ box to this or should I put it somewhere else.  If so, where?  Photos?

5. Where did you install the 225 amp breaker?  Photos?

6.  I have a standard alternator (95 amps) with three batteries, one for the engine and 2 for the audio.   I have a bigger sound system (4 amps, 4 tower wetsound 8 speakers, 6 interior wetsound speakers and a subwoofer.  I currently have no power issues even when drifting for a few hours listening to loud music.  With the ez thruster, will I need another battery and/or a bigger amp?

Finally, I want to thank everyone on this site.  The information is awesome and so helpful.  Sorry to be such a novice and ask so many questions.  Thanks again.

 

Yacht Controller should have provided you with the latest instructions and videos which should answer some questions. Below are a few:

 

1. For the extension that attaches to the rear of the boat, is there only three holes (port side top and bottom bolt, washer and nuts, and a center hole for wires)?  I believe this is what the EZ instructions say.  If so, why does everyone’s photos show 5 holes (port side top and bottom bolt, washer and nuts, starboard side top and bottom bolt, washer, nuts, and a center hole for wires)?

5 holes which should match the 5 holes on the mounting extension.  Center hole for the threaded shaft. Two port side are drilled through for bolts/nuts.  The starboard side holes are for lag bolts only.  On Malibu's this location doesn't line up well for a through bolt due to how the hull/transom designed so they just recommend lag bolts.  Seems to do the trick.  Can't comment on how it might work on a 2016 hull, maybe you can get away with 4 through bolts without any issue but I know that doesn't really work on the newer hulls.

2.  Do I use 1 gauge (awg??) red and black wires from the EZ box to the positive post (red wire) and to the ground (black wire) or 2 gauge awg?  Sorry, the terms are new.  

1/0 AWG wire.  I used marine rated wire (not the super flexible welding cable stuff.)  I just wanted to do it right so I spend a little extra money on some nice cable.  I picked mine up on Amazon but this is likely similar: https://www.bestboatwire.com/collections/marine-battery-cable/products/1-0-awg-battery-cable-tinned-marine-grade-wire-red-ft

3.  Where is the engine ground (for black wire from EZ box)?  Photos would be great to get my bearing if possible on a similar engine.

Mine was under the motor on the port side.

4.  On the port side in the front of the engine compartment, there is a post that the Red battery cable runs to from the front of the boat.  Can I attach the red wire from EZ box to this or should I put it somewhere else.  If so, where?  Photos?

Yes you can use this post if you have room.

5. Where did you install the 225 amp breaker?  Photos?

port side storage locker front wall (behind the rear seat.) See my photo above.  On newer boats Malibu there are some breakers installed here, I just added mine next to them.  

6.  I have a standard alternator (95 amps) with three batteries, one for the engine and 2 for the audio.   I have a bigger sound system (4 amps, 4 tower wetsound 8 speakers, 6 interior wetsound speakers and a subwoofer.  I currently have no power issues even when drifting for a few hours listening to loud music.  With the ez thruster, will I need another battery and/or a bigger amp?

See COOPs response:)

[Setter2016]

Updates on info received from the Derek of EZ thruster:

1. For the extension that attaches to the rear of the boat, is there only three holes (port side top and bottom bolt, washer and nuts, and a center hole for wires)?  I believe this is what the EZ instructions say.  If so, why does everyone’s photos show 5 holes (port side top and bottom bolt, washer and nuts, starboard side top and bottom bolt, washer, nuts, and a center hole for wires)?

5 holes which should match the 5 holes on the mounting extension.  Center hole for the threaded shaft. Two port side are drilled through for bolts/nuts.  The starboard side holes are for lag bolts only.  On Malibu's this location doesn't line up well for a through bolt due to how the hull/transom designed so they just recommend lag bolts.  Seems to do the trick.  Can't comment on how it might work on a 2016 hull, maybe you can get away with 4 through bolts without any issue but I know that doesn't really work on the newer hulls.

Only three (3) holes are required for the installation of the EZthruster on my boat.  Said three penetrations are all that is needed to secure the EZthruster both while being used and not being used.

5. Where did you install the 225 amp breaker?  Photos?

port side storage locker front wall (behind the rear seat.) See my photo above.  On newer boats Malibu there are some breakers installed here, I just added mine next to them.  

My boat does not have any visible breakers in the stern storage areas.

6.  I have a standard alternator (95 amps) with three batteries, one for the engine and 2 for the audio.   I have a bigger sound system (4 amps, 4 tower wetsound 8 speakers, 6 interior wetsound speakers and a subwoofer.  I currently have no power issues even when drifting for a few hours listening to loud music.  With the ez thruster, will I need another battery and/or a bigger amp?

See COOPs response:)

According to EZthruster, my boat’s current system is adequate unless I over use the EZ thruster i.e., I am doing circles for extended periods of time.
 

Thanks to Derek and everyone else’s responses.Please keep them coming.

[JeffK]

Here's what I can tell you from working through my install and subsequent issues.  It draws a lot of power.  I had upgraded to the 170 amp alternator, and it still draws a ton of power.  I had mine originally hooked up to the positive distribution post on the engine.  I have since moved it to my house battery.  I upgraded my house battery to a group 31 for an inverter and decided to move the thruster to this as well.  After running the thruster, very minimally I might add,  on the smaller battery with the 170 amp alternator, I would start to get these:

UEGO1 Pump Cell Slow to Warm Up SPN:3325 FMI:10

UEGO2 Pump Cell Slow to Warm Up SPN:3264 FMI:10  

Turns out, which makes sense and is an awesome design BTW, that as the ECM sees a power issue, it starts to pull power from the O2 sensors first.  They have a little built in heater and when not running properly, throw this error.  I haven't tried this new setup back in the water yet, but will this weekend.  You have to make sure this thing has tons of power.  With a 25 and our docking situation, I have to back in to our slip and there are some underwater trees close enough that I'd have a heck of a time without the thruster.  

 

[Setter2016]

Coop:

Thanks for all the info.  Can I use this alternator (https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/220-amp-marine-high-output-alternator-universal-mount.html) on my boat (Sorry, I have no mechanical background) and if so and  because of the increased amps, I assume I also have to change the red and black wires from the amp to what I believe is the starter (red) and the ground (black)?

JeffK:

Thanks for the information.  Where was your negative and positive posts in the engine compartment.  In my boat (2016 LSV25 440/450 Raptor), it appears that my ground runs from the battery directly to a post that is very close to the starter and my positive wire runs from the battery is to a positive post that is on the port side at the front floor area of the engine compartment.  Is yours the same?

Anyone:

 

Regarding breakers, I cannot find the breakers in my boat for the surf gate etc.  I found fuses at the front low in the drivers area but no breakers.  There is definitely nothing in the rear storage containers.  Anyone with a 2016 Wakesetter that has any info on where the breakers are located, please advise where your breakers are.  Thanks again to all.

 

[gregtay]

53 minutes ago, Setter2016 said:

Coop:

Thanks for all the info.  Can I use this alternator (https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/220-amp-marine-high-output-alternator-universal-mount.html) on my boat (Sorry, I have no mechanical background) and if so and  because of the increased amps, I assume I also have to change the red and black wires from the amp to what I believe is the starter (red) and the ground (black)?

JeffK:

Thanks for the information.  Where was your negative and positive posts in the engine compartment.  In my boat (2016 LSV25 440/450 Raptor), it appears that my ground runs from the battery directly to a post that is very close to the starter and my positive wire runs from the battery is to a positive post that is on the port side at the front floor area of the engine compartment.  Is yours the same?

Anyone:

 

Regarding breakers, I cannot find the breakers in my boat for the surf gate etc.  I found fuses at the front low in the drivers area but no breakers.  There is definitely nothing in the rear storage containers.  Anyone with a 2016 Wakesetter that has any info on where the breakers are located, please advise where your breakers are.  Thanks again to all.

 

Not an issue if you can't find breakers.. it was just a convenient place for us to mount our Thruster breaker since there was decent access (there was an access panel that came out) and it looked like it belonged next to the other breakers.  You can find a good spot to mount yours that works for you.  I believe they included the hardware bracket for surface mounting it if needed.

Edited August 12, 2020 by gregtay

[asnowman]

7 minutes ago, gregtay said:

 

This is where i mounted it as well, except i put it on the engine side of that panel.

The ground post is along the port stringer, close to the starter. 

The positive post is in front of the engine as you described.

I ran the power cables for the thruster to the posts near the engine, as they have the same gauge wire going to the battery switch.

So far, we have not had any issues using our thruster with only 2 batteries and the stock alternator in our M6 engine. As soon as i engage the thruster, voltage drops to 10.3, but usually recover to 11 with it running. So far, no low voltage codes associated with it.

[JeffK]

1 hour ago, Setter2016 said:

JeffK:

Thanks for the information.  Where was your negative and positive posts in the engine compartment.  In my boat (2016 LSV25 440/450 Raptor), it appears that my ground runs from the battery directly to a post that is very close to the starter and my positive wire runs from the battery is to a positive post that is on the port side at the front floor area of the engine compartment.  Is yours the same?

I used the same ground as @asnowman and had started on the same positive post as well, but decided to move mine to the house battery instead of the cranking battery, so I ran it up front to the battery switch/ACR in my boat.