Installing Tower

[JDubya]

I recently bought a "one Size fits all tower from www.diywake.com. I will be installing it on my Echelon in about 2 weeks when I get a chance. But I wanted to ask if there was anything that I should know before I start.

Do you guys ave any advice from your self installs. I had some issues when I installed my bimini anchors with the gelcoat cracking. I had some slight cracking of the gelcoat when I drilled the holes, no matter how slow, or how little pressure I used when I drilled. I remeber someone posting a while back that using tape over the area where you will drill will reduce the cracking. Also they said that I should start the drill in reverse to begin the hole. Any thoughts on if this works.

Also any things I should be weary of. I will be most likely mounting it on the slanted portion of the side. I have 2 (1/2") plates that mount as backing plates. Is this enought support.

Thanks for any advice,

Jonny

[mrothwell]

I recently bought a "one Size fits all tower from www.diywake.com. I will be installing it on my Echelon in about 2 weeks when I get a chance. But I wanted to ask if there was anything that I should know before I start.

Do you guys ave any advice from your self installs. I had some issues when I installed my bimini anchors with the gelcoat cracking. I had some slight cracking of the gelcoat when I drilled the holes, no matter how slow, or how little pressure I used when I drilled. I remeber someone posting a while back that using tape over the area where you will drill will reduce the cracking. Also they said that I should start the drill in reverse to begin the hole. Any thoughts on if this works.

Also any things I should be weary of. I will be most likely mounting it on the slanted portion of the side. I have 2 (1/2") plates that mount as backing plates. Is this enought support.

Thanks for any advice,

Jonny

I installed the tower on my SLxi, I had a write-up on it on the old MBO.

My Advice:

1. measure 15 times

2. drill once

3. unibit (like butter)

I had no cracking after 3 summers of use.

[Big Dubya]

a bit of my experience with gel-coat: post

[Texasguy]

I know there are other posts on this but one tip is to spin the drill bit Backwards till you are well through the gell, then maybe, just maybe spin the bit the correct way to get through the rest of the glass.

[beef]

I know there are other posts on this but one tip is to spin the drill bit Backwards till you are well through the gell, then maybe, just maybe spin the bit the correct way to get through the rest of the glass.

After you follow this excellent advice, chamfer the edges of the hole by using a bigger bit (also backwards) just to get a little angle on them. This will keep the gel from cracking later if the bolt makes contact with the side of the hole.

[pennery]

I know there are other posts on this but one tip is to spin the drill bit Backwards till you are well through the gell, then maybe, just maybe spin the bit the correct way to get through the rest of the glass.

After you follow this excellent advice, chamfer the edges of the hole by using a bigger bit (also backwards) just to get a little angle on them. This will keep the gel from cracking later if the bolt makes contact with the side of the hole.

I followed this advice when installing my tower (Monster) and I have now used it for 2 Summers and not a single gell coat crack. I drilled in reverse the whole way through. 2 holes per mount x 4 mounts = 8 holes backwards. It definitely takes longer than going forward and I remember putting some pressure on the drill as I was drilling but it got the job done. Take your time as well, Don't be in a hurry. I also noticed the gel coat lines on the bow of the boat are not exact so don't measure off of those. I used parts of the windshield as well as the bow light, ( May not be exact either) but I feel I got mine dead on. I also used green masking tape to do the marking. I installed my tower right on the edge of the top deck and I am pleased with that location. My brother installed his on the slanted portion (same boat,same tower) like you are talking about and his tower sits a good 4-6" lower than mine. Not all that difficult to do but have another pair of hands as well. Good Luck!

[pennery]

Also any things I should be weary of. I will be most likely mounting it on the slanted portion of the side. I have 2 (1/2") plates that mount as backing plates. Is this enought support.

Thanks for any advice,

Jonny

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I never reinforced my fiberglass either. I used the backing plates with the rubber pieces that go between the mount/backing plate and the gel coat, and I check once or twice a year and make sure the bolts are tight and everything seems good to go. If your tower didn't come with the rubber pieces I would figure out a way to get some rubber between the gell and the mounts. I think it helps quite a bit ICBWT

[JDubya]

Mine came with the rubber pieces. I guess we will have tp adjust the look of the tower to see what it looks best like.

Pennery,

Do think the look is better on the top or the sides.

I called the company and they informed me that the tower is the same one that wakeside sells as the evolution. Anyone have any experience with that tower.

It is basically fully adjustable so you can dial in the particuar height width and rake (front to back) that you want. I will prob tweak it for what looks best.

Thanks for the tips. I will prob not get to it untill the 11th so if you guys think of anythig else shout it out.

P.S. What is a unibit????....mrothwell

[pennery]

I prefer the look of th tower on the top but I am biased.

I think the lines look cleaner when it is positioned a lttile higher. Plus I don't hit my head on it as often.

The one thing I would have done differently is, I would have folded it down before I decided to drill the holes in order to dial in the best location (back or forward) to mount it based on where it sat when folded. My tower folds back and sits right on the rear edge of the engine compartment. If I would have moved it back 1/2" it would have missed that. But oh well.

[mrothwell]

Mine came with the rubber pieces. I guess we will have tp adjust the look of the tower to see what it looks best like.

Pennery,

Do think the look is better on the top or the sides.

I called the company and they informed me that the tower is the same one that wakeside sells as the evolution. Anyone have any experience with that tower.

It is basically fully adjustable so you can dial in the particuar height width and rake (front to back) that you want. I will prob tweak it for what looks best.

Thanks for the tips. I will prob not get to it untill the 11th so if you guys think of anythig else shout it out.

P.S. What is a unibit????....mrothwell

Here is what the unibit looks like - I picked one up at Home Depot. No need to drill backwards, and no need to use a larger bit to angle the edge, this bit takes care of everything. I had 4 holes X 4 mounts, not a single crack in my gel after 3 years.

[chadwick02]

I saw them using a unibit (or something like it) at my Malibu dealer when they were installing a tower. I think they used a drill bit to drill the holes, then used the unibit to chamfer the holes. I don’t think the unibit could be used to drill the actual holes? I didn’t pay close enough attention to what they were doing, and now I wish I had. Anyone have some more info on how this? mrothwell?...

[mrothwell]

I saw them using a unibit (or something like it) at my Malibu dealer when they were installing a tower. I think they used a drill bit to drill the holes, then used the unibit to chamfer the holes. I don’t think the unibit could be used to drill the actual holes? I didn’t pay close enough attention to what they were doing, and now I wish I had. Anyone have some more info on how this? mrothwell?...

The first hole I pre-drilled with a small bit, then used the unibit - then I realized just how nice the unibit was, and drilled the next 15 without a pilot. just like butta.

[obski]

Don't forget the beer!

You'll need that, and maybe some pizza, to entice a friend or two to come over and help you.

[jklein]

I put my tower on 5 years ago. The only crack I got was when one of the mounting bolts bent just a little over time and came in contact with the gel coat on the side of the hole.

I also put an additional backing plate of dense plywood in addition to the aluminum backing plates and rubber gasket to spread out the stress around the whole area.

I would cover with masking tape, mark with a pencil and drill through the tape. If you chamfer first, then drill the interior with the smaller bit that sizes to your bolts you should not need to drill backwards in the smaller hole IMO. Use brand new bits IMO.

so definitely chamfer the hole so that when the bolt is stressed it will not come in contact with the gel coat.

I put on my own wedge too 5 years ago, and my own thru hull ballast system, so drilling above the water line is no big deal. Save the beer for a job well done.

Good luck.

[JDubya]

Some one over on WSR suggested that I "load" the tower with about an inch of tension.

The tower is collapsable. If I did that I would have to do so each time I extended the tower.

I know this would make it more rigid but anyone have thoughts on if this should be done on a collapsable tower.

[WakeGirl]

Ditto on the Unibit, it's worth every penny. Jklein's advice of adding a backing plate is good, it will help & isn't expensive. I can't speak to the "loading" that you're talking about, but I would think that any chance you have to stiffen up a tower is worth looking at.

[SacRiverRat]

Be sure to have someone near by that you can blame for any mistakes you make...