Dock options

[ibelieve]

I am in need of dock recommendations. It will be going on a private lake that has about a 12" - 18" variance in water level from Spring thru late Summer. The shoreline is relatively steep, if that makes a difference.

Should I go floating of fixed pylons ... or are there other options?

I like the idea of having a more stable dock but not sure if the variance in the water level will be a problem for a fixed level dock.

I am handy so a DIY project is possible.

Also, any good sources for purchase? It will be located in south-central Missouri.

Thanks,

Steve

Edited October 20, 2006 by ibelieve

[gonorth]

I hate floating docks. I am guessing you probably don't have enough ice there to lift dock posts up every winter. If that's the case and if the bottom is soft/loose enough you could probably drive your own posts either by hand with a good sledge or water jet them in. The trick for you will be to have some sort of mechanical means to raise and lower the dock. Maybe not the whole length of the dock but the part farthest out at least. If the lake is big enough that there is a company that installs permanent docks in the area you could get a bid from them and you would at least get a good opinion on what kind of system would work well for your situation.

Roll in docks are nice, but with a steep bank, if you need to take them out in winter it will be a pain. If there isn't enough ice to bother a roll in then that might be an option, they can float them to your location from a boat landing. One of the big problems with ice regarding any permanent dock is that if you have large open water around you then a wind in your direction when the ice softens up in the spring can totally wipe out a dock. Or if on a river the same can happen if the current carries ice with it.

So, give us some idea what ice conditions are like there and what your lake bottom is like in terms of material and slope then some here might be able to give you more appropriate advice.

Whether or not you plan on a boat lift, if it is covered, if you zoning allows permanent lifts, that sort of thing would help to know too.

[SacRiverRat]

I say 12-18" variance is big, go floating, or a combiniation of fixed, with a floating portion that the boat ties up to

[Jimmy Buffett]

12 to 18" doesn't seem like that much to me. You could set the level of the dock so it's just a few inches above the water level at the highest point of the season (which would maybe be a little too high if the water didn't fluctuate at all) and most of the time it will be just right (although a little low at the lowest point). Lakes around here fluctuate up to 7' from full pond to the lowest point of the year, so floating is the only way to go, but if it's just 18" max I'd be inclined to deal with it to have a fixed dock. Just my opinion.

[SacRiverRat]

How do you tie your boat up to a dock that is at the water level?

There is fairly limited "good" range at which you'd want to secure your boat to a dock.. Floating would allow you always be at the perfect spot.

[ibelieve]

I have not seen this lake in the winter time but assume it will have some ice. Not sure I would ever feel safe walking on it though.

The lake is 110 acres and stream fed, so it has some flow all year long. The bottom is some silt over an otherwise rocky bottom. It will see boat wakes but do to sizing limits on the lake, there will be no wakeboard type boats. I/Os and us, with the wedge down, will be about it.

There are regulations about how large the dock can be and how far out the dock can sit, a max of 25' from shore. Most of the existing docks have about a 8 - 10' ramp that is attached to concrete on shore and a floating dock stabilized by pylons (pipes).

/Steve

[TJP]

I agree, 12-18" of fluctuation doesn't sound like much, providing it's not every second day. So long as the permanent dock poles run a few feet above the dock itself, you can simply tie up to the posts.

That said, floating docks are easy. If you're worried about stability, go as wide a dock as possible. Once you get over the 6' range, they tend to get fairly stable. Especially when you drive one post at the end to anchor to.

[edwin]

We used to have a membership at a semi-local private lake with similar level fluctuations. Most of the docks were on fixed pilings. Seemed like a good way to go...

Nice find on the private water...kind of tough to find here in MO.

[Malibuman]

One of our local lakes that I live near and ride on mainly, fluctuates that much daily. They take the water down before 10 am a couple of feet and bring it back up at about 8 pm. Most of the docks are fixed and my friends with fixed docks are easier to navigate and maintain, than the floaters. Make sure to put a strong enough lift to vary to height to are lifting or dropping to. This is a TVA resevoir lake so it has a mild current when they are generating.

[doughickey]

Also depends on the depth of water UNDER your dock. I have a 28' dock (3 sections) on pipes. Water depth at the far end is about 6'-7'. Mid way out, it's about 5'-6'. Deep enough that to install, I need to float the outer sections out on an inner tube, and deflate slowly until the dock is at the right level.... drop the pipe legs, secure, then finish deflation. (Reverse in the fall.) By golly, 7' is the deepest I'd want a dock standing on galvinized pipe "stilts". Even with cross braces, I still get a bit of sway sideways that I don't like. Other than that, I liked the semi-solid feel of the dock. Water depth ranges about 12" over the course of the season. High at the beginning of the season, and lower at the end. I'm also on fairly protected water.... so other than a few monster wakeboard waves (darn bath tubs), with my mooring whips, I was fairly happy...... until this year.

This year, as in all other years, I install the dock just above the water level at the beginning of the season. Then, as the water level drops, the dock sits higher and higher above the water level.

However, in mid July, we had a monster rain for 2 days. Water level went UP an additional 12". Never been so high. Now, my dock surface is 6" UNDER water. Although it's TREX (real heavy stuff), but when it's under water, it has approx neutral buoyancy. As waves roll in, the whole dock starts to lift from the bottom with each wave. I had to quickly get a pile of cement blocks placed all over the dock so it wouldn't drift away. Meanwhile, it made it rather tough to moor the boat. Thank goodness I used mooring whips.... other wise the boat would just float OVER the dock. STayed that way for weeks until the water gradually receded.

All that to say, if I had it to do over, I'd probably go for a floater. Not just for the water level fluctuation... but because I have to remove (winter ice) each season, it becomes a 2 day job twice a year.

2 Pictures. One shows the dock and boat and whips the first year.

Second is this year after the rain.

Wished I had a floater!

Edited October 20, 2006 by doughickey

[SacRiverRat]

I don't see much wrong with the floater if you're going to have water elevation changes..

Doug, in that second pic, are the kids trying to bail water off the top of the dock?

[Ronnie]

Our dock is on pipe driven into the ground, probably 15' to 18' in the ground. They are 23' sections and then more pipe is welded on top to bring it up to the level for the roof/lift. The dock has a cradle lift. I had the cradle made the same as the trailer and it is hung from the dock framework by cables. I have since cut off the front stop to be able to get the cradle lower. I didn't need it anyway since we always walk the boat on the lift. If the water were to go down one more foot, I wouldn't get the boat off because the water is too shallow under it.

12-18" isn't that much to worry about. I can't give any experience on the ice effect on the dock but for that close to constant level I'd go with a fixed dock.

This is a picture when the lake is at normal level.

This picture is of the dock when the lake is down.

[jshap]

Our dock is on pipe driven into the ground, probably 15' to 18' in the ground. They are 23' sections and then more pipe is welded on top to bring it up to the level for the roof/lift. The dock has a cradle lift. I had the cradle made the same as the trailer and it is hung from the dock framework by cables. I have since cut off the front stop to be able to get the cradle lower. I didn't need it anyway since we always walk the boat on the lift. If the water were to go down one more foot, I wouldn't get the boat off because the water is too shallow under it.

This is a picture when the lake is at normal level.

This picture is of the dock when the lake is down.

Heh, I had to do a double take...two different towers.

That's a looong way down!

[Ronnie]

Yea, about a year & a half between the two pics.

[jetskipro550]

I bet it makes getting under the boat and scrubbing the belly easy

[GTI2lo]

I would recommend a floating dock if you have decent water depth.

As for stability I would go 8' wide and don't get alum frame and composite construction!! nieghbor has it and doens't lie it with a passion...

Ours is all Cedar construction and rock solid. We have a 8' x 8' ramp with 2 x20' section in an "L" shape. located in 12-18' of water (steep drop off) and 8 concrete anchors with chain. Ramp also has sway cables to prevent rocking..

Example of what we have...

These guys have lots of pictures on their website for you viewing.(plus where we bought our dock)

http://www.muskokaleisuredocks.com/index.php?pr=Docks

Edited October 21, 2006 by GTI2lo

[gonorth]

The floating docks I have been on were only like 4' wide. I can see where a wider floating dock would be much more stable and would probably be just fine.

I jealous of you texas guys that can build your boat shantys right over the water and leave them in year round. We would never get away with that on the lakes up here. For the most part, max width dock is 4', no longer than needed to comfortably float your boat off a lift. Lifts need to be removable and of 'natrual' color canvas. Heck, they don't even let us mow our lawn within 25' of the water anymore.

[ibelieve]

Thanks guys ... lots of great information. The pictures are a great help as well.

I am going to get some depth measurements but think I will likely go with a floating dock of the width you are recommending. My only concern now will be how to attach a lift ... if it is attached to the dock vs free standing.

/Steve

[jgouveia3]

i have a "floater" dock too, as we have 2 - 3' fluctuations daily (coastal river). as said above, go as wide as possible. we used to be only 4' wide, and it was very unstable. we now have a 8' X 20' float, and it is VERY stable (we used 3 4' x 24" floats).

one thing that we started doing last year that is WAAAY easier than dock removal if you have ice is to lift the float. Attach eyelits to the pilings (we have large pilings), crank up the lift with a come-along. then we use an ice-eater to keep water flow for no upheaval of the pilings.

[obski]

I'm totally jealous of all of you building docks. Congrats.

[ibelieve]

Have decided on a 12' x 20' floating dock with a standalone lift. It is starting to warm up and I need to get this done before I start skiing :-)

Question: The dock will be 2x constuction. Should it be nailed or screwed together? Most of what I have seen are older docks and they have always been nailed.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Steve

[jgouveia3]

where we are everything is through bolted together (all the major components are bolted, then the top decking is screwed into place). we are subject to tidal storms, so it may be overkill on some lakes.