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Ryan1776

Hull Cleaning-Lysol and Peroxide. My Experience

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Ryan1776

Just reporting out my experience. Unreal. 

Removed all the water spots. Cleaned the emblems and everything. 

 

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Slurpee

Yep, a nice acid wash does clean things well. Kind of aggressive for my tastes, but if you don't do it a lot.... 

Be sure to neutralize the acid and seal the gel-coat before waxing it up.  I'd give it a round of polishing just to make sure the gel-coat is smooth.  Might as well take advantage of a totally cleaned hull to detail it.

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Ryan1776
1 minute ago, Slurpee said:

Yep, a nice acid wash does clean things well. Kind of aggressive for my tastes, but if you don't do it a lot.... 

Be sure to neutralize the acid and seal the gel-coat before waxing it up.  I'd give it a round of polishing just to make sure the gel-coat is smooth.  Might as well take advantage of a totally cleaned hull to detail it.

Any tips on the neutralizer and seal?

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Slurpee

That's a very mild acid so lots of water will work.  Or you could put some baking soda in a bucket of water and wipe it down and rinse. That's messy for me.  Or you could use a soap that'll strip and neutralize the pH.  I have Chemical Guys Clean Slate on hand for when I want to do a detail over.  The soap's the right way to go in my mind.  And you can probably find something similar at any of your auto parts stores. YMMV.

Since you've got it down to clean gel it's a good time to polish if you like.  Afterwards I think most folks on here recommend a good polymer wax for sealing and waxing gel coat.  Lots of opinions there.  I'm trying out a ceramic coating at the moment myself.  Kind of a long term test so we'll see what the results are by the end of the Spring.

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Ryan1776
21 hours ago, Slurpee said:

That's a very mild acid so lots of water will work.  Or you could put some baking soda in a bucket of water and wipe it down and rinse. That's messy for me.  Or you could use a soap that'll strip and neutralize the pH.  I have Chemical Guys Clean Slate on hand for when I want to do a detail over.  The soap's the right way to go in my mind.  And you can probably find something similar at any of your auto parts stores. YMMV.

Since you've got it down to clean gel it's a good time to polish if you like.  Afterwards I think most folks on here recommend a good polymer wax for sealing and waxing gel coat.  Lots of opinions there.  I'm trying out a ceramic coating at the moment myself.  Kind of a long term test so we'll see what the results are by the end of the Spring.

OH I got ya, I used a lot of water, plus it rained all weekend. 

Interested in this ceramic coating you speak of. I've used it on exhaust headers, pretty sure I shouldn't bake my boat though. :lol:

 

 

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Slurpee
4 minutes ago, Ryan1776 said:

OH I got ya, I used a lot of water, plus it rained all weekend. 

Interested in this ceramic coating you speak of. I've used it on exhaust headers, pretty sure I shouldn't bake my boat though. :lol:

 

 

Similar idea.  It flashes and cures at room temp though so no need to bake it.  There's a bunch of hype out there about it if you look. I used some stuff for DIY from marinenanoshop to see how it does over a year of regular use.

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Ryan1776
23 minutes ago, Slurpee said:

Similar idea.  It flashes and cures at room temp though so no need to bake it.  There's a bunch of hype out there about it if you look. I used some stuff for DIY from marinenanoshop to see how it does over a year of regular use.

Oh interesting. Price is pretty good. Is it a must to use power applicator? 
How long have you had it on your boat? 
Was it hard to work with and apply? 

I'm looking/thinking about putting on a few vinyl stripes in the spring, so I wasn't going to do any wax or coating or anything until after that. Think this stuff might be good to apply over that for sealing purposes? 

Edited by Ryan1776

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Slurpee
5 minutes ago, Ryan1776 said:

Oh interesting. Price is pretty good. Is it a must to use power applicator? 
How long have you had it on your boat? 
Was it hard to work with and apply? 

I'm looking/thinking about putting on a few vinyl stripes in the spring, so I wasn't going to do any wax or coating or anything until after that. Think this stuff might be good to apply over that for sealing purposes? 

Oh, it'll seal.  It's the kind of seal that takes compounding to remove if you make a mistake.  :) And stickers won't apply to it after it's on. So you'd put those on first.  I've had it on the sides of the boat for about 3 months now.  I started with my stand up paddleboards which were badly faded and scratched for practice before touching my boat.  I'll take the boat off the lift and put it on the trailer to do the hull in a week or so once the rain stops now that it's cooling off. It's actually applied by hand with a special little applicator pad.  It's not too hard after a little practice.  You just have to focus on what you're doing.  It's really hard to tell if it's been applied on areas that are metallic flask because of the way it breaks up the light.  So focus is key to not missing spots to apply or buff off.  Soild panel areas are easy to see.  Generally before putting this stuff on cars or boats you paint correct any fading, scratches, rough areas, etc.  THAT is what takes all the time.  My boat had a lot of scuffed areas above the rub rail from the cover blowing in the wind.  So I needed a full wet-sand, compound, and then polish.  It took a couple days.

The thread that got me interested in this earlier in the summer is here.  I'm hoping as the spring detailing threads start up again those of us that tried this out can see how we thought of it over time.  I'm curious if any differences between products come up either.  Right now though it's a labor heavy experiment.  I love it because it wipes down with a damp rag and feels/looks like a fresh detail and wax every time.

And here's some photos of my boat.  

 

 

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Ryan1776
52 minutes ago, Slurpee said:

You just have to focus on what you're doing.  It's really hard to tell if it's been applied on areas that are metallic flask because of the way it breaks up the light.  So focus is key to not missing spots to apply or buff off.  Soild panel areas are easy to see.  Generally before putting this stuff on cars or boats you paint correct any fading, scratches, rough areas, etc.  THAT is what takes all the time.  My boat had a lot of scuffed areas above the rub rail from the cover blowing in the wind.  So I needed a full wet-sand, compound, and then polish.  It took a couple days.

Well, good news for me, my boats is 100% white minus the Hull number, registration, "Malibu" and "Wakesetter". There are some hull scratches but you can't even notice them from 3 feet away. 
I'm HOPING to get a hoist for next year, but that is yet to be decided. Would love to be able to take a sponge when in the sand bar and just wipe off all the scum and be done. 

Thank you for all this info! I do appreciate it! I bookmarked the nano site. Which kit did you go with?  Just the HD Starter kit? https://www.marinenanoshop.com/store/liquid-crystal-armour-hd-9h-starter-kit

 

BTW, the photos you tried to send, didn't attach....

 

Edited by Ryan1776

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Slurpee
14 minutes ago, Ryan1776 said:

Well, good news for me, my boats is 100% white minus the Hull number, registration, "Malibu" and "Wakesetter". There are some hull scratches but you can't even notice them from 3 feet away. 
I'm HOPING to get a hoist for next year, but that is yet to be decided. Would love to be able to take a sponge when in the sand bar and just wipe off all the scum and be done. 

Thank you for all this info! I do appreciate it! I bookmarked the nano site. Which kit did you go with?  Just the HD Starter kit? https://www.marinenanoshop.com/store/liquid-crystal-armour-hd-9h-starter-kit

 

He's changed the kits up since I bought mine.  I picked up about 10 of those applicators since they're cheap and treat them like clay bars. Drop em? Toss em.  Uhm, two of those 50mL bottles would do the whole boat including hull with leftover.  I have boxes of microfiber towels of various sorts so I didn't buy any from him. You need normal ones for the first leveling wipe and really soft fluffy ones for the buff.  Don't go nuts on quality.  I think I tossed mine after using them.  Get a bottle of that SiO2 polish just so you can high speed buff the boat before putting the coating on.  I use that Activate spray for a quick detail wipe every outing after rinsing off the boat for maintenance.  That's about it.  I'd start with a bottle of Chemical Guys Clean Slate or something equivalent to wash the boat and strip it down and neutralize it.  That's about it.  You need the rotary buffer, polishing pads, pad cleaner fluid, washing mitts, etc as well.  But that's normal detailing stuff.

Oh an practice on some old surf boards or wakeboards or something first to get the technique down.

Edited by Slurpee

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Ryan1776
3 hours ago, Slurpee said:

You need the rotary buffer, polishing pads, pad cleaner fluid, washing mitts, etc as well.  But that's normal detailing stuff

Oh, so you need to have a rotary buffer for this stuff? It's normal detail stuff, for sure, my last one died so I don't have one. Or is the buffer for the polish you recommended? 

Did you go with the HD stuff or the Pro? Seems the pro is little more forgiving but not as durable. 

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Slurpee

The buffer is for the polishing.  You just need an applicator sponge and a couple cloths to apply it.  I went the heavy duty stuff.  In for a penny.....

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Ryan1776
9 minutes ago, Slurpee said:

The buffer is for the polishing.  You just need an applicator sponge and a couple cloths to apply it.  I went the heavy duty stuff.  In for a penny.....

Awesome thank you. I thought the same thing for the HD, just wanted to make sure I was on the same page! 

Again, thank you for the info.

Will probably stripe the boat and apply this in the spring! 

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Slurpee

You’re welcome. I was told that like painting this stuff works best with good prep. Detox the surface with clean slate after any polishing you do. The exception is using that SiO2 polish as the last step. You can just buff that off and apply the ceramic. 

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