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tvano

No Start Troubleshooting

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MalibuNation

Thank you - MN

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Rich_G

Yes, thanks for this.

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CLTMalibu08

I recently had a no start issue. I would highly recommend adding " Check distributor cap for corrosion" to this document. would have saved me some time. 

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JasonK

How do you tell if the spark you get while testing, is strong or occurs enough?

I'll add: If you test for spark, and you only get one spark every 2 seconds, then replace the cap and rotor, regardless if it has corrosion or not.

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DanGray

im not getting any spark from the coil when the engine is cranking over.  what should i check next ?

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SteveIpson

Hey MalibuCrew,

I have a 2001 Sunsetter LXI and I have a no start issue. The problem is no fuel. I do not hear the fuel pump prime the line when I first turn the key on. I checked the fuel rails and no pressure or fuel there. I then  checked to see if I had voltage at the fuel pump - NO. So, I checked the 3 fuses on the covered connector near the ECM - all good. I pulled the relays and did a quick check to see if the coils were good and if the continuity for the contacts was right - all good.  I am running out of ideas and really don't want to take it to the dealer.  Any comments/ideas would be appreciated.

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Eagleboy99

Dead fuel pump.  Not uncommon in boats of that age.  Mine died and I found a NOS OEM pump (for way too much $) but there are alternatives.

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SteveIpson

Replaced the fuel pump not too long ago. There is no voltage at the connector.

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Eagleboy99

And it worked after the replacement I presume?  All the other electrical works?  You could try reseating the cannon plug and reset the breaker for it.  

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SteveIpson

Yes, Boat was running fine when I winterized it for the season. Now it won't start. I have reseated the big plug several times and checked for alignment. Reset the breaker (red button), too.

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Chaabo
1 hour ago, SteveIpson said:

Hey MalibuCrew,

I have a 2001 Sunsetter LXI and I have a no start issue. The problem is no fuel. I do not hear the fuel pump prime the line when I first turn the key on. I checked the fuel rails and no pressure or fuel there. I then  checked to see if I had voltage at the fuel pump - NO. So, I checked the 3 fuses on the covered connector near the ECM - all good. I pulled the relays and did a quick check to see if the coils were good and if the continuity for the contacts was right - all good.  I am running out of ideas and really don't want to take it to the dealer.  Any comments/ideas would be appreciated.

Bridge the kill switch, it cuts the power to the fuel pump!

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SteveIpson

Checked it - kill switch is working fine. I'm down to the ECM, I think.  :(

 

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wdr

A boating bud just went through this. He winterized took it out once and it died  on him. He took it in and it turned out to be his keyed ignition switch. A $20.00 switch and $200 where’s Waldo fee. Still something to check before you go the nuclear option. Good luck.

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tvano
On 10/23/2018 at 2:11 PM, CLTMalibu08 said:

I recently had a no start issue. I would highly recommend adding " Check distributor cap for corrosion" to this document. would have saved me some time. 

done

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Steve B.
Posted (edited)

My guess is an issue with the fuel pump relay. Wish I was more help. Keep us posted.

Adding, is thera a canon plug on this engine ? Give it a clean if yes.

Steve B.

Edited by Steve B.
Added info

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formulaben

See below:

 

INDMAR (CHEVY) ENGINE START UP SEQUENCE


Fuel Rail Pressurization:

When you first turn the key to the "on" position (aka “key up”), the fuel pump will run for 2 seconds pressurizing the fuel rails. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail near and if you measure the pressure there after the pump runs, you should see between 40-42 pounds of pressure. The reading will go to 38-40 pounds nominal once the engine is running. Test by attaching a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail at the shrader valve, on TPI and LT1 engines its located on the pass side fuel rail.

Initial Crank Action:

If you then rotate the key to the start position the engine will rotate.  Once the oil pressure has reached 4 PSI, the oil pressure switch will close allowing the fuel pump to run.  The crank position sensor will send a string of pulses to the ECM in response to the engine being rotated by the starter. These pulses continue as long as the engine turns (both starting and running) and if they are not present, the engine will not run.

ECM Reaction:

If the ECM sees oil pressure greater than 4 PSI and the reference pulses from the distributor, it will energize the injector drivers which will begin pulsing the injectors on for 4 ms (milliseconds) periods. The ECM will also pull in the fuel pump relay in effect paralleling it electrically with the oil pressure switch.  The ECM also monitors the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor mounted on the throttle body assembly) and wants to see .54 volts at this time. If it sees more than 0.54 volts, it will assume the engine is flooded.  Assuming the ignition module is good the engine will "catch".

Engine "Catches":

When the engine catches, the MAF sends a signal to the ECM advising that air is flowing and also just how much air is being pulled through to the intake manifold. The ECM takes note of the amount of air being consumed and adjusts the injector pulse width to around 2.2 ms nominally so as to attain a proper air/fuel mixture to insure combustion.  The engine should show an initial idle speed of around 900-1100 RPM and then slowly diminish to 600-700 RPM.  If this does not happen, the Idle Air Mixture valve may be mis-adjusted. Alternatively, there may be a leak in the intake manifold or another vacuum leak may be present. Listen for hissing sounds---there should be none.

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SteveIpson

Per the above scenario of what all needs to happen to make the engine run, it sounds like it could be a multitude of things. I have basic debugging tools, so I may not be able to properly diagnose all the timing issues. I am hoping the dealer has more sophisticated equipment to pinpoint the problem or can read the error codes from the computer, if it has that capability, not sure.  Maybe, I should just take a chance and buy a new oil pressure sensor.

I've had a problem with the cannon plug before and the dealer just bypassed the connector and wired the one wire direct. Maybe I should just bypass the whole connector.  I ordered the Clymer service manual for this year of Indmar engine, so I am hoping to get some wiring diagrams and debugging hints, too.

The comment above about a bad key switch is not something I would have imagined.  I do have 12v back by the ECM on the 50a re-settable breaker when the key is 'on'.

I will check the distributor cap next time I am in the boat to see if there is any corrosion. Also, I have checked all 3 relays by the ECM and they work fine, so I am pretty confident I can rule that out.

Thanks for all the great ideas of things to check. I will definitely look into these since the dealer cannot schedule my boat for service until June 1.  Bummer.

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tvano

you mentioned relays work fine.

as a second check, since those 3 relays are alike, you can swap them around and see if your problem remains the same.

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SteveIpson

Good idea, I will try that.  I actually removed the relays and energized the coils and could hear the contacts clicking on and off. That was my test.

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SteveIpson

Final update... It was a bad fuel pump. This particular one is obsolete so I had to get a conversion kit at $508. 

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