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newone

What kind of antifreeze

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newone

What kind of antifreeze should I use to winterize with? The pink for RV or automotive. Also how much and which side of pump is the suction? 2004 response monsoon

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Tom Sawyer

Pink. Just make sure you use it straight up and DO NOT mix it with water.

When I had the monsoon, I found it easier to just drain everything and pour antifreeze directly into the block, exahust manifolds etc. Getting the suction going using the raw water intake is a PITA and I always ended up with a mess. If you do elect this method, be CERTAIN that your engine is at normal operating temperature before you do it. Otherwise the thermostat will not open for the antifreeze to go into the block.

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newone
Pink. Just make sure you use it straight up and DO NOT mix it with water.

When I had the monsoon, I found it easier to just drain everything and pour antifreeze directly into the block, exahust manifolds etc. Getting the suction going using the raw water intake is a PITA and I always ended up with a mess. If you do elect this method, be CERTAIN that your engine is at normal operating temperature before you do it. Otherwise the thermostat will not open for the antifreeze to go into the block.

How is the best way to pour it directly in and how much to put in? Also for using the pump how can I get it up to normal temp because of having to run water through it, then draning the block, exaust manifolds this would give the engine time to cool down again. Allso how is the best way to do the heater? it has quick connects on the lines. I know to just undo and blow through with a air hose. Should i do this before putting the antifreeze in or after? If I do it before then connect the lines back I will be filling up the lines & core with antifreeze. Sorry for all the questions, This is my first time doing this and I don't want to mess it up.

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Tom Sawyer

Take a look at this..recently provided by wakeandsno in another thread...

LINK

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jgouveia3

i find it easiest to remove the raw water hose, stick a funnel in that, and pour. as said above, make sure the thermostat is open (you can check that you got it in the block by quickly opening one of the drains in the block and make sure you see pink coming out. i pull the hose even though i have a flushpro, because i can never get the flushpro to "suck"

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88Skier
i find it easiest to remove the raw water hose, stick a funnel in that, and pour. as said above, make sure the thermostat is open (you can check that you got it in the block by quickly opening one of the drains in the block and make sure you see pink coming out. i pull the hose even though i have a flushpro, because i can never get the flushpro to "suck"

I took a section of garden hose and connected it to an antifreeze jug that I cut the bottom off to make a big funnel of it. It will screw into a fake a lake or flush pro. You hold the funnel end up high and pour infreeze into it and it will suck the anti freeze in.

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jgouveia3

i find it easiest to remove the raw water hose, stick a funnel in that, and pour. as said above, make sure the thermostat is open (you can check that you got it in the block by quickly opening one of the drains in the block and make sure you see pink coming out. i pull the hose even though i have a flushpro, because i can never get the flushpro to "suck"

I took a section of garden hose and connected it to an antifreeze jug that I cut the bottom off to make a big funnel of it. It will screw into a fake a lake or flush pro. You hold the funnel end up high and pour infreeze into it and it will suck the anti freeze in.

that's pretty much what i do, but supposed with the flushpro, you are supposed to be able to push the black dohickey that is attached to it, and then it will provide enough suction (it closes off the raw water intake section) to suck from the garden hose/bucket. mine doesn't seem to work. maybe it has something to do with my fresh water cooling. i don't really need to do the antifreeze, but i do it anyway, just to make sure the riser/manifolds are OK.

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skistud1
What kind of antifreeze should I use to winterize with? The pink for RV or automotive. Also how much and which side of pump is the suction? 2004 response monsoon

I use the -100 A/F due to colder temps that are possible where I store my boat.

Question...........Would it be ok to fill the block with A/F through the thermostat (Merc Towsports). I pull the 4 drain plugs, replace plugs, close seacock, then add 4-5 gallons of A/F right after I pull the boat out until it comes out the exhaust.

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vette-ski

IIRC, the stat is not an issue. If it's closed it keeps water from coming out of the block, not in. Somebody with a water diagram could verify, but this is what I recall when I tore down my motor and understood the proper function of the stat bypass on the front of the motor. If in doubt, crack open a block drain and make sure you see a/f coming out.

Oh, and as for what kind of a/f, most use pink. But if you do make sure you are completely drained so there is no dilution. And I would reconsider for someone that sees extreme cold. I put a cup of pink stuff in my freezer straight out of the jug and it got nice and slushy. Not enough to cause any harm, but my freezer is not set for way below zero either. I didn't like what I saw, but I've never had any problem using it.

Edited by vette-ski

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newone

i find it easiest to remove the raw water hose, stick a funnel in that, and pour. as said above, make sure the thermostat is open (you can check that you got it in the block by quickly opening one of the drains in the block and make sure you see pink coming out. i pull the hose even though i have a flushpro, because i can never get the flushpro to "suck"

I took a section of garden hose and connected it to an antifreeze jug that I cut the bottom off to make a big funnel of it. It will screw into a fake a lake or flush pro. You hold the funnel end up high and pour infreeze into it and it will suck the anti freeze in.

I have the flush pro. Where to I connect to it at. Allso is this the same as taking the hose off before the pump and pouring it in. Thanks fo all the help

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bobofthenorth
Oh, and as for what kind of a/f, most use pink. But if you do make sure you are completely drained so there is no dilution. And I would reconsider for someone that sees extreme cold. I put a cup of pink stuff in my freezer straight out of the jug and it got nice and slushy. Not enough to cause any harm, but my freezer is not set for way below zero either. I didn't like what I saw, but I've never had any problem using it.

It gets below -40 here so I use auto AF. I know its a no-no but I do it anyway, drain in the spring & hope for the best. I have a 5 gal pail with a chunk of hose that I keep specifically for winterizing. Take the boat to the lake, put in the Stabil, back the trailer down the ramp (I have a spot where no one ever goes), start the engine, put in gear and run for 15 mins on the trailer. That gets the whole block well warmed up and the Stabil into everything. Then back home, disconnect the intake on the r/w pump, hook on my short chunk of hose and suck the AF out of my 5 gal pail. When 5 gal is gone I fog the engine down & take off the heater & shower lines and blow them out with air. Then I coat all the metal surfaces with whatever miracle oil I happen to have bought that year, do an oil change, pull the impeller, oil the swim deck, put the cover on and stick it in the shop for the winter. Somewhere in that process I hire Roddy to detail it inside and out b/c my bride refuses to do what I believe is legitimately women's work.

Just writing this makes me sad but I got the leaks in my drysuit patched (I hope) so now I'm good for another month.

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bound4er

Auto AF is the way to go. It contains corrosion inhibitors and, especially important, phosphate buffers. This keeps the pH in the alkaline range which minimizes corrosion. If the gylcols used in AF turn acidic, corrosion can be a big problem :( . The big thing with auto AF is to remove it first before starting your boat in a lake for the first time come spring - it is pretty toxic to marine life.

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jgouveia3
It gets below -40 here so I use auto AF. I know its a no-no but I do it anyway, drain in the spring & hope for the best. I have a 5 gal pail with a chunk of hose that I keep specifically for winterizing. Take the boat to the lake, put in the Stabil, back the trailer down the ramp (I have a spot where no one ever goes), start the engine, put in gear and run for 15 mins on the trailer. That gets the whole block well warmed up and the Stabil into everything. Then back home, disconnect the intake on the r/w pump, hook on my short chunk of hose and suck the AF out of my 5 gal pail. When 5 gal is gone I fog the engine down & take off the heater & shower lines and blow them out with air. Then I coat all the metal surfaces with whatever miracle oil I happen to have bought that year, do an oil change, pull the impeller, oil the swim deck, put the cover on and stick it in the shop for the winter. Somewhere in that process I hire Roddy to detail it inside and out b/c my bride refuses to do what I believe is legitimately women's work.

Just writing this makes me sad but I got the leaks in my drysuit patched (I hope) so now I'm good for another month.

why put the boat in grear on the trailer, just run it around the lake insteaad. seems like you are risking doing damage to the boat or extra stress on the trailer/tow vehicle.

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jgouveia3
The big thing with auto AF is to remove it first before starting your boat in a lake for the first time come spring - it is pretty toxic to marine life.

and illegal to dump into the water in most (if not all) states.

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thealy

Given that all anti freeze at some point will freeze, would it not be a good idea to first drain all the water then run anti freeze through the system then drain as much of that out as possible? I would think having the extra air space for things to expand if anything does freeze would be a good thing. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

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