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hawaiianstyln

ideas welcome to fix the ski lockers?

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hawaiianstyln

This is now the 3rd time these screws have pulled out for the gas shock mount to the ski locker.  It appears the previous owner had this happen a few times so the area is now weak or compromised.  Frustrating and looks like crap.  Any ideas on a more permanent fix?  The only thing I can think of is a bigger piece of HPDE to cover a bigger area and remount?  Or should I go with Aluminum or SS.  The ski lockers are so heavy and we are trying to be careful but I think it's due to the weight of these lockers and a small fragile mount

 

 

skiLocker1.jpg

skiLocker2.jpg

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23LSVOwner

Fastenal has some 2 part epoxy in a gun that mixes when you pull the trigger.

 

Cut a square out of the carpet where that bracket mounts. Rough up the back side of the mount and the surface. Fill the holes with the epoxy and put some on the back side of the mount. Put it in place with the screws in. Let it cure and put everything back together.

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SouthsideBoarder

When mine did that i did a lengthy search and combined a few ideas. 

I took drywall anchors (don’t remember if they were the metal or plastic, just make sure they aren’t too long so that they puncture the vinyl on the other side when you step in that area) with a slightly larger screw. Placed some gorilla glue in the original holes, pushed in the drywall anchor, then screwed in with the plate. The plate was detached from the rod. After it had set for a while so the glue dried I reconnnected the rod and it was good for three years still when I traded my boat. 

It was also recommended to replace the rod as if they get bent the thought is that it causes extra pull on the plate leading to it ripping out easier.

Good luck

 

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blk93jeepzj
3 minutes ago, SouthsideBoarder said:

When mine did that i did a lengthy search and combined a few ideas. 

I took drywall anchors (don’t remember if they were the metal or plastic, just make sure they aren’t too long so that they puncture the vinyl on the other side when you step in that area) with a slightly larger screw. Placed some gorilla glue in the original holes, pushed in the drywall anchor, then screwed in with the plate. The plate was detached from the rod. After it had set for a while so the glue dried I reconnnected the rod and it was good for three years still when I traded my boat. 

It was also recommended to replace the rod as if they get bent the thought is that it causes extra pull on the plate leading to it ripping out easier.

Good luck

 

This was the method that I used as well when the hinge failed on the center sundeck.  I used the blue drywall anchors in the back below.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cobra-50-Pack-Assorted-Length-x-Assorted-Diameter-Standard-Drywall-Anchor/3382152

Make sure with the Gorilla glue to get it damp so that it sets up correctly.  

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rakr

Edit: uhhh yeah, since these are going into seats, you will probably need to pick a shorter SS machine screw to match with any anchor. you will probably want an anchor that will sit as flat as possible on the back side of the mounting surface if this is the direction you will wan to go. you don't want to end up like this...

image.thumb.png.c70465fb3a8c1a2d69c60ef03d5fcad6.png

Original post: I have used the anchors below for years for home projects. They are sturdy and are easy to use. The down side to them is that you need to drill a pretty big hole. The nice thing about them is that you can remove them from the wall or in this case, from the seat, if needed and the anchor stays in place because of the plastic "wings". (FWIIW, I think the ones @blk93jeepzj mentioned will stay in place as well).

I would make sure what ever fasteners you use will be ok for marine use. I haven't checked on the ones below, but upon initial inspection I think they would work.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hilti-3-8-in-HTB-Toggler-Bolts-with-Slotted-Round-Head-Screw-4-Pack-3512331/204992999

 

Edited by rakr
oops...

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Fffrank
14 minutes ago, rakr said:

 

I would make sure what ever fasteners you use will be ok for marine use. I haven't checked on the ones below, but upon initial inspection I think they would work.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hilti-3-8-in-HTB-Toggler-Bolts-with-Slotted-Round-Head-Screw-4-Pack-3512331/204992999

 

I love those toggler bolts but have never found them available in stainless.  Now -- are you the type of person to worry if a piece on the "inside" of your upholstery rusts?  I don't like the prospect of it failing and having to EVER do it again so I would find something plastic and swap out the provided zinc screws for SS.  This would be my solution: https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-Residential-Drywall-Polypropylene-Fastener/dp/B0051IAZW4/ref=sr_1_31?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1531931405&sr=1-31

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oldjeep

Id pull the upholstry and throughbolt them with a thin aluminum backing plate

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blk93jeepzj
15 minutes ago, rakr said:

Edit: uhhh yeah, since these are going into seats, you will probably need to pick a shorter SS machine screw to match with any anchor. you will probably want an anchor that will sit as flat as possible on the back side of the mounting surface if this is the direction you will wan to go. you don't want to end up like this.

Original post: I have used the anchors below for years for home projects. They are sturdy and are easy to use. The down side to them is that you need to drill a pretty big hole. The nice thing about them is that you can remove them from the wall or in this case, from the seat, if needed and the anchor stays in place because of the plastic "wings". (FWIIW, I think the ones @blk93jeepzj mentioned will stay in place as well).

I would make sure what ever fasteners you use will be ok for marine use. I haven't checked on the ones below, but upon initial inspection I think they would work.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hilti-3-8-in-HTB-Toggler-Bolts-with-Slotted-Round-Head-Screw-4-Pack-3512331/204992999

 

Those toggler anchors are great for drywall and will hold a bunch of weight.  Couple of downsides, think that one takes a 3/4" hole and trying to get them to lay flat with the foam for the pad will be a real challenge.   I had enough of a challenge getting a couple to lay flat with loose batt insulation in a exterior wall. 

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rakr
18 minutes ago, blk93jeepzj said:

Those toggler anchors are great for drywall and will hold a bunch of weight.  Couple of downsides, think that one takes a 3/4" hole and trying to get them to lay flat with the foam for the pad will be a real challenge.   I had enough of a challenge getting a couple to lay flat with loose batt insulation in a exterior wall. 

agreed...

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hawaiianstyln
18 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Id pull the upholstry and throughbolt them with a thin aluminum backing plate

thought about that, but then I would have to pull them and take to an upholstery shot and I just got both ski lockers back after redoing the skins on those lockers.  If I would have known it was an issue I would have had the upholstery guy figure out a good fix.

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Arick
1 hour ago, hawaiianstyln said:

This is now the 3rd time these screws have pulled out for the gas shock mount to the ski locker.  It appears the previous owner had this happen a few times so the area is now weak or compromised.  Frustrating and looks like crap.  Any ideas on a more permanent fix?  The only thing I can think of is a bigger piece of HPDE to cover a bigger area and remount?  Or should I go with Aluminum or SS.  The ski lockers are so heavy and we are trying to be careful but I think it's due to the weight of these lockers and a small fragile mount

What # gas shock are you using?

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hawaiianstyln
1 minute ago, Arick said:

What # gas shock are you using?

the 60 pound I believe

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vanamp

Screw a larger square piece to the locker lid.  Use self tapping screws to mount the old bracket to the square piece you just mounted to locker lid.   

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hawaiianstyln
16 minutes ago, Arick said:

What # gas shock are you using?

it is a good question because even tho they are 60 lb they still slam shut which drives me nuts.  I know that is off topic from root problem here but...

shock.PNG

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hawaiianstyln

good idea too @wedge88

I just bought Mercury Gray Seaboard/HPDE 1/4" thick 12x12".  Thought about cutting these into 6"x6" pieces, screwing the HPDE down and then mount to that.  I might try your idea first as it seems stronger.  Where did you get that little piece of Stainless Steel?

Edited by hawaiianstyln

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Arick
49 minutes ago, hawaiianstyln said:

it is a good question because even tho they are 60 lb they still slam shut which drives me nuts.  I know that is off topic from root problem here but...

shock.PNG

I asked because my boat came with 40# and not sure those were stock.  I bought a 60# thinking it would be better.  However the #60 is hard to close and easily bends the shaft.  I'm thinking about going back to 40#.  I think this would help with putting less pressure on the screw holes.

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hawaiianstyln

that might be part of the problem but does everyone's hatch slam shut if you don't hold onto it as you close it.  Sometimes my kids just let it go :( and slams shut.  I try to warn everyone before shutting that to be nice to it :)

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Falko

T-nuts would be the way to go, but you'd have to remove upholstery.

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wedge88
1 hour ago, wedge88 said:

This is what I did on my old SSLXi.  Just riveted existing plate to larger plate and screwed in.  

Rear Hatch Hinge.JPG

I bought it at Lowes or Home Depot.  It will be in the hardware section.  Such a simple solution.  I kept the boat for 3 more years without an issue and assume it's still working today.

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SouthsideBoarder

I would consider doing the least invasive fix to the door first with the smallest area involved as you can always work your way up. I’d hate to drastically modify something to have it fail and be with less options. 

This is if you plan on keeping the boat long term. 

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hawaiianstyln

good point, I may save the HPDE I ordered and go with the small hardware like @wedge88 did.

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Nitrousbird

I had this problem on mine and the solution (that has lasted a couple seasons) was simple.

 

#1 Replaced the gas shocks. Both were a bit bent and worn

#2 Went up 2 sizes on the screw. Required me to drill out the bracket holes a bit but no biggie there. 

Fixed it and looks like it came that way from the factory. 

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wedge88
14 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

I had this problem on mine and the solution (that has lasted a couple seasons) was simple.

 

#1 Replaced the gas shocks. Both were a bit bent and worn

#2 Went up 2 sizes on the screw. Required me to drill out the bracket holes a bit but no biggie there. 

Fixed it and looks like it came that way from the factory. 

This was what I did, at first, but it didn't last long.  The bigger plate allowed me to get outside the busted plywood holes altogether.

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