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Mricha64

Rev 10 Tower Speaker

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Mricha64

Just installed a pair of Wet Sound REV 10 tower speakers. Sound absolutely amazing until I start the motor or turn the blower on. Once I do that I get a high pitch feedback coming through the tower speakers. I used a Rockford Fosgate Punch amp. Any help on how to get rid of the feedback noise?

 

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MLA
9 hours ago, Mricha64 said:

used a Rockford Fosgate Punch amp. Any help on how to get rid of the feedback noise?

Was this amp already in place or was it also purchased and installed? Was it a new install or a swap? This is usually a result of amp wiring, RCAs or amp tuning.  

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hethj7

@Ronnie It seems like we just need a sticky, kind of like the no-start thread, but for stereo feedback.  It could as least get through the basics as these threads pop up all the time.    

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Ronnie
34 minutes ago, hethj7 said:

@Ronnie It seems like we just need a sticky, kind of like the no-start thread, but for stereo feedback.  It could as least get through the basics as these threads pop up all the time.    

@hethj7 You start a generic brand thread and I'll sticky it.

 

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David

Here’s a basic start. Engine Noise: Here’s the scenario. You added a new amplifier and perhaps speakers to an existing stereo. You had no noise before, you have no noise now with the engine Off, but when you start the engine, the revised stereo system suddenly has noise. The noise remains the same intensity regardless of how low or high the volume position. The noise is like a whine, and changes in pitch as you increase/decrease the engine rpm. There can be other causes, but we’ll focus on the 90% cause. A ground loop. This particular noise (AC ripple) is generated by the alternator. This noise is constantly coursing through the wiring of your boat’s DC electrical system. It’s normal. But it’s not suppose to be within the stereo signal path. Typically it’s not unless something is awry in the stereo wiring. To resolve the noise, two procedures must be followed to the letter. No deviation. No exception. If you try and skirt either procedure in the slightest, if you had noise beforehand, you’ll still have noise after. ALL (HU, EQ, crossover, processor, amplifiers) audio electronics equipment in the signal path must share a single ground physical attachment point to the boat electrical system. This point should be closest to the supply (battery). In some rare cases, this physical attachment point must be closest to the audio system reference signal path ground point, which is the HU. Generally to accomplish this, you’ll need a substantial power distribution block close to the battery source. Now, take the identical approach to the positive supply side. On a side note or two, amplifier input gains should never be set wide open. While this isn’t the root cause of the noise, wide open gains definitely invite noise of all types. Can GLIs, Ground Loop Isolators, help? Kind of. You might get an improvement/decrease in the noise level. But you’ve only added a band-aid, as the real problem remains completely intact. Ground Loop Isolators interrupt the signal path with tiny transformers which are inherently non-linear. They can screw up the sound quality. David.            

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COOP

100% what David said. Could also be a faulty RCA cable.

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hethj7
On 7/16/2018 at 12:26 PM, Ronnie said:

@hethj7 You start a generic brand thread and I'll sticky it.

 

Maybe on the winter time to do list :)

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dkscism

@David

would it be okay if:

  • amplifiers are grounded to a distribution block which is grounded to a negative battery terminal
  • Head unit is grounded straight(not through wiring harness) to same negative terminal
  • positive power connections same scenario

??

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David
1 hour ago, dkscism said:

@David

would it be okay if:

  • amplifiers are grounded to a distribution block which is grounded to a negative battery terminal
  • Head unit is grounded straight(not through wiring harness) to same negative terminal
  • positive power connections same scenario

??

Yes, that's the idea. Some may want to retain the switched/key function so they use an interrupt relay that permits direct-wiring, that bypasses the factory harness, yet maintains factory-like operation.     

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dkscism

Sorry to bring up this topic that’s been covered a lot, but I’m still having problems with the “whine” with the engine rpms that you describe. It also is influenced by turning on my bilge and MLS pumps. 

I have grounded my head unit, rocker switch that turns it on (lamp included), straight to the battery(#1 of 2).  I have done the same with both of my amplifiers (to the same battery). 

I have done the same with all positive wires. The problem still persists. Could this be because I have leads from this battery going to the perko switch? In other words, could it be because other devices could also have connections at the battery through the switch (alternator, pumps, etc)?

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MLA
16 minutes ago, dkscism said:

I have done the same with all positive wires.

List the B+ wires that you have done this with? 

17 minutes ago, dkscism said:

Could this be because I have leads from this battery going to the perko switch?

Theres no other place for those wires to run. 

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dkscism
2 hours ago, MLA said:

List the B+ wires that you have done this with? 

Theres no other place for those wires to run. 

B+ to HU (memory)

B+ to rocker input 

rocker output jumped to switch lamp+ and HU ACC

B+ sub amp

B+ cabin amp

 

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MLA
12 minutes ago, dkscism said:

B+ to HU (memory)

The yellow wire, correct? have you tried connected the H/U GND and B+ to the power cables of the largest amp? Then to the tower amp? 

Looks like you go 3 amps? Each with their own B+ and GND cables from the source to the amp? Rather then a trunk line/branch line setup? 

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dkscism
2 minutes ago, MLA said:

The yellow wire, correct? have you tried connected the H/U GND and B+ to the power cables of the largest amp? Then to the tower amp? 

Looks like you go 3 amps? Each with their own B+ and GND cables from the source to the amp? Rather then a trunk line/branch line setup? 

Yes the yellow wire. I only have 2 amps currently running. One sub and one cabin. 

When I get my rack built I’m adding a tower amp, and using distribution blocks for the ground and power for the three amps. But no, I haven’t tried connecting the HU GND and B+ to the power cables of the largest amp. 

What type of connection would this be?

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dkscism

Just figured out that my interference also occurs with the engine off. It’s only on one speaker as well. Could it be the speaker?

edit: the interference is worse and louder with the engine rpms. As David describes above. Just kind of lost now that I’ve gone through all of the ground and + connections. I’ve also switched head units (not because of this issue) and the problem persists. 

Edited by dkscism

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MLA
23 minutes ago, dkscism said:

It’s only on one speaker as well. Could it be the speaker?

Plausible. Swap the speaker leads at the amp. if its the speaker, it will still be that same speaker, swapping chnls wont matter. if its not the speaker, the issue will stay with that chnl output. 

 

Just note, you first have to eliminate its not the input source. 

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