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Parkit360


05hammerhead

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I have a set of four large wheel dollies I had made for my pontoon. I drop my pontoon on them as soon as I get it home from the launch. I can walk the boat around on my own. Any direction.  ( on pavement ) But after I get it in the garage I need to move it to the wall on the side to make room for my ski boat. It also fills front to rear no extra space.  One of the best investments I have made even giving they are only used to store the boat on.  But I still think moving a single axle trailer is much easier but I do agree stopping and starting still is tough with the trailer jack wheel.  

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12 hours ago, carguy79ta said:

I wonder if it will work with surge brakes. 

Why wouldn't it?  Every surge system has a manual lockout pin.  

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7 hours ago, Pra4sno said:

Why wouldn't it?  Every surge system has a manual lockout pin.  

Pretty sure my 15 A22 did not. I had to make a slug to put in the slot so the surge brake wouldn't engage. My dealer also gave me a  slug. Dont know if my present boat has one or not. The surge brakes will engage if pushing uphill if you dont have the electrical connector to tell it not to engage.  On flat ground, it wouldnt engage.

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2 hours ago, carguy79ta said:

Pretty sure my 15 A22 did not. I had to make a slug to put in the slot so the surge brake wouldn't engage. My dealer also gave me a  slug. Dont know if my present boat has one or not. The surge brakes will engage if pushing uphill if you dont have the electrical connector to tell it not to engage.  On flat ground, it wouldnt engage. 

Mine will engage on flat ground, think most will all mine have.

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6 minutes ago, dalt1 said:

Mine will engage on flat ground, think most will all mine have.

Okay the verdict is in @dalt1 and myself have agreed. The surge brakes will engage, thus requiring an electrical setup to defeat the (switch, relay, thingy-??-) so the surge brakes dont engage. 

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8 hours ago, hunter77ah said:

Just use the lockout key....

This is where my confusion stems from.  I haven't seen a trailer without a physical lockout key, pin, or magnet adapter.  I don't doubt it's not possible, but with the volume of trailers being shuffled with bobcats, fork lifts and tractors they are hooked to power everytime?  

I towed thousands of boats to and from winter storage to put myself through school, and never had a trailer without some form of manual lockout.  That is asking for damage at a storage facility as the lot monkeys never engaged them - it was up to us as the haulers to make sure the surge brakes were disabled for lot shuffling. 

Edited by Pra4sno
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On 1/4/2019 at 8:46 AM, granddaddy55 said:

@carguy79ta  so you think cause of the ball hitch the push back will engage brakes , never thought of that cause I push it in by myself with no ball hitch engaging, glad I have lockout magnet now , but I don’t think it will cause the trailer sort of “slides” forward where it’s inertia is great at speed in road and I’m thinking that won’t be duplicated by pushing it in.  Got my Overton’s cheapee yesterday , will try this weekend and report back, $59 plus $5-8 shipping , I think it was 67 or less delivered  

@granddaddy55 - Inertia would have nothing to do with it.  It is straight mechanical in there.  The further the plunger goes in, the more brake pressure it generates.  It doesn't care how quickly you engage them.

The lockout still has a tiny bit of play in it.  Remote possibility, but the brakes could grab just slightly, making hand pushing a trailer tough.  It isn't likely, but technically possible.  It would be insanely simple to just grab a 7 round female plug and wire it right up to the battery.  If you are using a manual dolly, even something like this would have enough juice to trip the solenoid. 

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-A23-Battery-12V-Pack/dp/B005HX2YT0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1546866363&sr=8-14&keywords=12v+battery

And this:

https://www.amazon.com/58150-7-Way-Blade-Connector-Socket/dp/B001EP0G72/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1546866459&sr=8-5&keywords=7+way+female+trailer+plug

You are about $14 in at this point.  Well worth it IMO.

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I’ll immediately push back after I pull forward as you may be right and I don’t want to wait to find out when I put it away next day. 

So what your saying is as soon as I push it will trigger the mechanism , just hoping the lock  out helps.  

So I may have to add in the $14!  Thanks fir the link, waiting in my replacement from Overtons ,Fed Ex picking up delivery that had hole where axle slipped out

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I purchased a trailer dolly from the following site:

https://parkit360.ca/

I purchased the Force 10K to push my boat and trailer. It is expensive, but does a good job of moving my trailer into and out of my garage.  

Although this product works for me, it is not perfect.  Hooking up the trailer is messy and takes awhile because the trailer ball has to be tightened into place.  Also, because this device only has two wheels, it tends to torque the handle when moving forward or backwards.  The handle will create an upward force when moving forward and a downward force when moving backwards.  I wish this device had rear casters to balance the loads.

One tip:  When moving my trailer, I never fold the trailer jack wheels when trying to turn the trailer.  I have found that turning causes the dolly to torque to the point where it may flip.  Because of this, I crank the trailer jack wheels about 2-inches off of the ground before moving the trailer.  If I were ever to flip the Parkit360, the trailer will fall back to the trailer jack wheels.  

Overall, I am able to unhook my boat and trailer just outside my garage and then push into place with my Parkit360.  I place a chock behind one wheel and turn the Parkit360 90-degrees when I want to turn the trailer in any one direction.  Overall, I would say that using this tool has helped park my boat in my tight garage.  

Also, I did buy the battery case and built in charger.  This feature is nice, because I leave the Parkit360 plugged into the wall socket until I need to use it and the battery is always fully charged and ready to go.

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