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'91 Euro F3 Info


mhschmidt

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New to the forum.  Just moved to an area with some great lakes and looking to get into a cheaper boat.  Came across a '91 Euro F3 with just shy of 600 hours on it that i am planning on going and looking at and taking out this weekend and would appreciate any and all info or tips on some key things to look out for that may be a red flag right off the bat.  I'm pretty mechanically inclided, owned and worked on just about every vehicle imaginable with wheels, just not ever a boat.  There are no major upgrades but does look like its in great shape and the asking price is $6,300.  Its an older retired guy that says he's owned it for 2 years and uses it for pulling his grandkids on the tube, loves it but would like to either sell or trade for a camper for them instead.  Mechanically, he said he's never had problems with it and it runs great.  Mentioned that last year when he got it winterized, the shop he took it to recommended the water pump housing, impeller, and both exhaust manifolds be replaced because they were original so those are new.  Aside from that, unsure of other mechanical history.  Tandem trailer with brakes is in good shape and all electrical works well.  Exterior has supposedly been detailed and is in great shape along with the interior aside from a tear in the drivers seat.  I've read a good number of threads about these boats in the last few days and my first question is about the stringers.  I know they are wood but i'm wondering the best way to check them out.  Is walking on the deck and "feeling" for soft spots the best/only way or is there a more visual way to check them out?  I feel like if everything is sound and in the condition he says its in, its a great buy.  Any and all info/tips would be appreciated.  Thanks.

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Welcome to the forum. What area are you in ? With any used boat , a compression test is always a good idea. Motor in that boat is a simple GM 350 with a few different marine components. any 1993 or older Malibu , you want to check the wood floor and stringers. With the seller owning it only two years its hard to know the maintenance history , see if it is the original motor .

 

Pay attention to how the steering feels on the test drive. should be able to turn the wheel using one finger. Check for back n forth movement in the rudder as well. 

Edited by 90oldskool
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@mhschmidt:  I would suggest you perform a good engine check, compression and leak down test.  If you are in an area where winters are harsh, I would check over the block for any signs of repairing a freeze related crack (JB weld between the freeze plugs as an example).  Look for trails of water rust coming from the joints (head/block, heads/intake & exhaust manifolds). 

As for wood stringers, you can check the thru bolts that hold the engine mounts, if they continue to tighten and the torque load does not go up, that would indicate softness.  You could drill a hole in the glass to allow you to poke at the wood to see if wet, I would scan the entire length of the stringer, maybe you can find a spot to check.  Pull all the seat cushions and anything that comes loose to look behind, under, around areas that are normally out of sight to see how those were maintained.  The more original the boat is and in good shape as you note, the indication implies things were well taken care of.

Running gear - as noted check steering stiffness & play in helm, and check rudder play (all directions).  You might want to visually check prop shaft by rotating the prop (you might need to add water to the rudder bushing to get it to spin free.  Look at prop, rudder and tracking fins for condition and any signs of repair from hitting stuff.

Good Luck and welcome to the Crew.

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Second checking the rudder for play and hard steering under a load. If original, it could have plastic bushing which is prone to failure and wear. No replacement parts available, you have to purchase a new rudder assembly ($600) or have the bushing machined out of brass ($210). Look for red bushing around rudder shaft, telltale sign if you have one. Not a difficult repair, you could use as a bartering chip.

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Thanks everybody for all the feedback. Long story short, a ton of red flags started to pop up before I even took I out that just spoke to how the boat was cared for, guy told me 3 different durations that he owned the boat, 3 different numbers for hours that were on the boat, interior was in rough shape, and to top it off, oil residue everywhere and several JB weld "fixes" on the engine block.  The guy also rattle canned the swim deck black, who does that? Needless to say it wasn't worth my time to take it out. For now, the search continues...

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