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BusterSaunders

Milky Oil, Oil Pressure UP/Down. Monsoon 325

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BusterSaunders

I replaced the oil pan in Oct/Nov. The oil in the old pan did not seem to have water in it. I refilled with oil and ran the motor for about 30 min to bring up to temp. I then winterized with 4 gallons of RV antifreeze and put her to bed for the winter. The boat is stored outside though the temp didnt get below 15 degrees more than 10 hrs and the winter was actually pretty mild. Adv low was 25 or so.... 

Today I started the boat for the first time. Since the oil pan I have replace the headers and risers. New plugs, wires, cap and button. I ran the boat for 5 min and it sounded great. I then noticed the oil pressure fluctuating and shut her down. Checked the oil and found it was a little milky. Like barely had water but def straw colored.

Any ideas would be appreciated

13D18531-A905-4E2A-957C-943D8476EF92.jpg

Engine running

Oil pressure

 

Edited by BusterSaunders

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Steve B.

I'm wondering if something in the risers/headers has an issue and allowed water in. Not sure the best way to proceed, but draining oil into a container that you can easily look at the contents is certainly in order.

Hopefully, not serious whatever it is.

Steve B.

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blytle473

Not sure what the ticking noise is but it sounds like it is in the riders/headers like Steve said above or at least in the top half of the engine. Also just by looking at the video of the oil pressure on the gauge, the gauge cluster, the instrument cluster computer, or charging system/battery(s) are bad. Seeing that the voltage is less than 8V, your fuel needle is way off and the oil pressure fluctuating like that it would lead me to believe something is wrong with 1 of the 3 things I listed above. Before I get too concerned about the fluctuations, I would have that checked out.  I had the same fluctuation with my oil pressure and fuel gauge and it was because of the boat's charging system and ultimately needed replacement of the computer. 

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oldjeep

I'm going to go with first cracked block of the year.

You say that you "winterized with 4 gallons of antifreeze"  Since the block and heater only hold about 2 then I'm going to assume that you did not drain the block and then pour it in - instead you did the suck it in and hope that the thermostat was open method

Average low of 25 is still 6 degrees below freezing so if the block was full of water then it would have cracked.

 

Pull your plugs and see if you find one or more that look "odd", that will likely tell you where that clunk is coming from.  I wouldn't put much stock in those gauges, maybe clean up your connections that that problem might go away

 

Edited by oldjeep

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BusterSaunders
2 hours ago, Steve B. said:

I'm wondering if something in the risers/headers has an issue and allowed water in. Not sure the best way to proceed, but draining oil into a container that you can easily look at the contents is certainly in order.

Hopefully, not serious whatever it is.

Steve B.

 

1 hour ago, blytle473 said:

Not sure what the ticking noise is but it sounds like it is in the riders/headers like Steve said above or at least in the top half of the engine. Also just by looking at the video of the oil pressure on the gauge, the gauge cluster, the instrument cluster computer, or charging system/battery(s) are bad. Seeing that the voltage is less than 8V, your fuel needle is way off and the oil pressure fluctuating like that it would lead me to believe something is wrong with 1 of the 3 things I listed above. Before I get too concerned about the fluctuations, I would have that checked out.  I had the same fluctuation with my oil pressure and fuel gauge and it was because of the boat's charging system and ultimately needed replacement of the computer. 

Is there a cooling passage between the headers/risers and the engine block other than the line from the pump?

Yes, the gauge is screwy. I have a new one to try. 

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BusterSaunders
28 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

I'm going to go with first cracked block of the year.

You say that you "winterized with 4 gallons of antifreeze"  Since the block and heater only hold about 2 then I'm going to assume that you did not drain the block and then pour it in - instead you did the suck it in and hope that the thermostat was open method

Average low of 25 is still 6 degrees below freezing so if the block was full of water then it would have cracked.

 

Pull your plugs and see if you find one or more that look "odd", that will likely tell you where that clunk is coming from.  I wouldn't put much stock in those gauges, maybe clean up your connections that that problem might go away

 

In the fall I brought the engine up to temp and mixed 3 gallons of straight antifreeze and 1 or more gallons of water in a bucket and sucked the mixture in the fresh water flush system. It could be that the thermostat wasn't opened but I did see the temp gauge rise and fall multiple times while I was putting the antifreeze in. 

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oldjeep
3 minutes ago, BusterSaunders said:

In the fall I brought the engine up to temp and mixed 3 gallons of straight antifreeze and 1 or more gallons of water in a bucket and sucked the mixture in the fresh water flush system. It could be that the thermostat wasn't opened but I did see the temp gauge rise and fall multiple times while I was putting the antifreeze in. 

I sincerely wish you good luck, but if you understood how many gpm a boat sucks you would see how inadequate 3 gallons is. Drain the oil, refill and run it some more.  See if you continue to get milk.  Rev it up a tad too.

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MadMan
53 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

I sincerely wish you good luck, but if you understood how many gpm a boat sucks you would see how inadequate 3 gallons is. Drain the oil, refill and run it some more.  See if you continue to get milk.  Rev it up a tad too.

I agree, drain and refill (including a new filter). 

Edited by MadMan

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oldjeep
6 minutes ago, MadMan said:

I agree, drain and refill (including a new filter). 

Good point - I always assume change oil means filter too.  If you don't change the filter then it won't tell you anything

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MadMan
1 hour ago, BusterSaunders said:

Is there a cooling passage between the headers/risers and the engine block other than the line from the pump?

Water to the exhaust manifolds only comes from the hoses connected to the thermostat housing.  This isn't your problem.  If they were leaking internally, it would most likely fill a cylinder and cause hydro-lock.

Edited by MadMan

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BusterSaunders
Just now, MadMan said:

Water to the exhaust manifolds only comes from the hoses connected to the thermostat housing.

Thats what I was thinking. So the only way I would have a leak in the new header/riser that could mix with oil would be the riser gasket. Possibly leaking to the exhaust port of the head.

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MadMan
Just now, BusterSaunders said:

Thats what I was thinking. So the only way I would have a leak in the new header/riser that could mix with oil would be the riser gasket. Possibly leaking to the exhaust port of the head.

I added some more comments.

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BusterSaunders

Im trying to track down a story on the boat from last year. I heard a story about it overheating and "barely making it back to the marina." I'm trying to confirm with the owner at the time. If that's true it could be a head gasket. Better than a block but still not good. 

 

Anyway to check if the head gasket is blown? Besides taking the head off LoL

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MadMan
2 minutes ago, BusterSaunders said:

Anyway to check if the head gasket is blown? Besides taking the head off LoL

Compression test.

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oldjeep

compression test, although that doesn't tell you specifically head gasket.  Pulling plugs will typically tell you if you are burning water

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Steve B.
2 hours ago, BusterSaunders said:

 

Is there a cooling passage between the headers/risers and the engine block other than the line from the pump?

Yes, the gauge is screwy. I have a new one to try. 

Possibly. A crack in a header passage, or bad gasket can allow water into the exhaust port. When that valve is open, water can then make it's way into the engine, then the oil.

Steve B.

edit: Oops, just saw that you posted about how this can happen

Edited by Steve B.

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MadMan

By the way, a cracked block may have nothing to do with the cylinders, I had one cracked in the lifter valley.

 

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BusterSaunders
Just now, MadMan said:

By the way, a cracked block may have nothing to do with the cylinders, I had one cracked in the lifter valley.

 

and there's no way to for a cracked block huh?

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MadMan
Just now, BusterSaunders said:

and there's no way to for a cracked block huh?

I meant, your block be cracked somewhere else, not the cylinders.

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BusterSaunders

Found this on another boat site...

"The highest point that water can be is the thermostat housing - Pulled the bolts and exposed this cavity at the front and top of the engine.

Pulled the drain plug and drained out whatever oil was left in the engine - ( needed to do that anyway since the milkshake of water and oil was inside the valve covers and everything internal.

With the engine off and cooled and ( battery removed for safety - dang starter scares me ; )

Poured water into the thermostat housing on top side of engine - until it appears to be "topped off" - or let the garden hose trickle the water in and hang out and wait - 

if water tops off inside thermostat housing - then stop adding water and let it sit - any cracks will allow water to seep in and drain out the oil plug screw on bottom side 

If water comes out your drain plug ( immediately or during the fill or 1 hour later - you got serious issues inside the motor"

 

I guess I could try that as well

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BusterSaunders
Just now, MadMan said:

I meant, your block be cracked somewhere else, not the cylinders.

I meant is there a way to check a cracked block.

Apologies, it was a typo. My heads in a million places. I was hoping to have the boat finished in two weeks. 

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MadMan

If yours only ran a short while, with a small amount of water, draining the oil should not be a problem. But,  I've bought a couple boats with cracked blocks, the consistency of the oil/water mixture was that of a very thick milkshake and it took days to drain...a pump didn't help.

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BusterSaunders

I'll get the oil changed today. I was thinking overnight (wasnt sleeping) that this oil could have mixed last fall.

Last year I pulled the motor up 18" to change the oil pan. To do this i removed the old risers that did have an external leak from the gasket. I then replaced the motor, and risers. I did not put a new gasket on the risers. It could be possible that the old risers and riser gaskets I used while attempting to winterize allowed water in the combustion chamber during that 30 min run. I did not check the oil after that. Yesterday (5mo later) was the first time I had seen the oil since. I guess this is my best shot at a good outcome. Wish me luck 

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boardjnky4

A tiny amount of water can cause a lot of milky oil, so I wouldn't freak out. Run the engine, get it up to operating temp and change the oil and filter. Then run it again and check it. If it gets better with each oil change, then you should be good. Running the engine hard will actually evaporate some of the water out of the oil.

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BusterSaunders
13 minutes ago, boardjnky4 said:

A tiny amount of water can cause a lot of milky oil, so I wouldn't freak out. Run the engine, get it up to operating temp and change the oil and filter. Then run it again and check it. If it gets better with each oil change, then you should be good. Running the engine hard will actually evaporate some of the water out of the oil.

Thanks. Its the lightest shade of "straw" right now, very little water I think. Fingers crossed after this oil change this afternoon.

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