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Slalomjunky

Prop shaft strut removal, Need Help!

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Slalomjunky

I am replacing the strut bearings on my 2003 SS LXI.  On recommendation of malibucrew I am taking the strut off.  I have the bolts off and the shaft uncoupled but I cannot get the strut off.  The silicone that it was installed with seems to have it "welded" in place.  I do not want to get too aggressive with a dead blow hammer and risk damaging the strut or damage the hull by trying to get a chisel or something under it to pry it off the hull. Anybody have any ideas????  Thanks Kerry

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wdr

There is slight risk involved, but I have used a putty knife a time or two with good results and no damage. Just use the narrowest one you have (narrower than the strut base) and start at a corner or two to break the seal as it were. Once you get an end or the corners loose it should come off easier with steady pressure. Definatley would shy away from the dead blow hammer. Some marine sealants, even silicone based can be crazy hard to get loose. I fought the same thing last summer when I replaced my rudder. Any marine sealant 3M, Boating Life etc... will be suitable for the reinstall. 

 

Edited by wdr

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Slalomjunky

wdr,

thanks for the reply. I guess I will have to give it a try and and hope for the best.  No other alternative at this point, except for dropping rudder and shaft.  KG

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malibuparadise

I have never taken off the strut to change the cutlass bearings, on either boat. Is there a reason? If the shaft alignment is good, why not leave it alone? Otherwise you better know how to redo it, and it's not that easy IMO.

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malibu2004

Dropping the rudder is far easier that popping the strut off and having to realign it. I would never remove the strut unless it was broken or bent. 

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Michigan boarder

Is the strut really even adjustable?  Won't the alignment stay the same?

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malibu2004
Just now, Michigan boarder said:

Is the strut really even adjustable?  Won't the alignment stay the same?

It's very adjustable. The holes in the fiber glass are just holes that have been drilled. They are bigger than the bolt so you can mover the alignment around. Don't forget after you remove it you'll need to re check the alignment of the shaft and possibly move the motor to get it aligned. 

 

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Woodski

@Michigan boarder @Slalomjunky:  In theory the alignment would remain intact except there is a long distance from the strut to the coupling so even the slightest shift in location will result in a much larger displacement at the coupling.  Removing the rudder, which is easy, eliminates the issue.  Regardless, it is a good idea to check alignment any time you break the coupling connection.

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MalibuHooper

Is it necessary to remove the rudder? Ive seen a few videos where they didnt have to remove the rudder at all (granted it wasnt a malibu but still..?) Im getting ready to replace my cutlass bearigns as well and If i dont have to remove the rudder (im not touching the strut!) then I wont.

 

-00' Malibu Wakesetter VLX

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Fffrank

I don't believe you have to remove the rudder.  And OP is finding out why you should NEVER use 3M 5200 as a "sealant" on freshwater boats.

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Woodski

@MalibuHooper:  You should be able to tell by sighting from behind the boat with the prop off whether the shaft will clear past the rudder.  Once the shaft is free you will find out rather quickly and you can react at that point.

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