marine audio recommendation

[90oldskool]

I've never ran a system without the use of a headunit. This part is above my head.

Now the pass through is for one set of rca's is not enough to run a 4/5 ch amp . yes you can use a rca adapter to get more signals out of that 1 output. signal quality would  be lost and not the ideal set up . 

https://www.amazon.com/iExcell-Speaker-Splitter-Shielding-Adapter/dp/B019ZQS4N4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494361943&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+splitter

 

all your inboats should be on one amp , and towers on a separate amp and zone control - yes the volume will be different but that is what you are wanting . 

 

I do not think the JL blue tooth Receiver would be the ideal fit for your set up. You are asking to much from 1 set of outputs . the wetsounds 420 bt would be better . Less expensive option is replacing with a bt head unit. 

https://www.amazon.com/kenwood-KMRM312BT-Marine-Digital-Receiver/dp/B00QH8BWA6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1494362578&sr=8-9&keywords=marine+head+unit

[shawndoggy]

51 minutes ago, 90oldskool said:

I've never ran a system without the use of a headunit. This part is above my head.

Now the pass through is for one set of rca's is not enough to run a 4/5 ch amp . yes you can use a rca adapter to get more signals out of that 1 output. signal quality would  be lost and not the ideal set up . 

 

This is wrong, you don't need RCA splitters.  The manual for that amp says that you can pull the sub channel from the full range (SUB/INT switch) and that you can run all four full range channels from a set of stereo inputs (4ch/ST switch).

 

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/assets.soundunited.com/polk/product_documents_legacy/PAD50005MN.pdf?mtime=20160701170000

[braindamage]

Holy Busy-ness Batman!!

My life has been a bit crazy, but I did pick up the Polk and Rockford amps along with the dual-control volume.

I took out my existing amp, subwoofer box, and bluetooth.  I'll create a wiring diagram and post it for input. Is there an easy/free software anyone recommends (ppt? paint?) or should I just get out paper and colored pens and then take a pic?

My existing amp was just screwed to the interior of the storage locker behind the spotter seat.  I think it would be better (and easier for install) if I get a board to mount everything and then mount the board to the interior.  I can easily fit 18"x24" (I can go bigger if I want but I don't think I need to)

Questions:

1) Should I use HDPE or marine grade plywood? Will the heat from the amps melt the hdpe? Will the plywood rot?

2) Where do I find carpet that will "match" what is there already? (do I even need carpet?)

I'm not sure when I'll get to the install, maybe some evening this week after I've gotten the wiring diagram and mounting board on hand.

[wdr]

IIRC, I paid about $18.00 delivered for a 12" x 24" x 1/2" sheet of HDPE off of amazon. You may be able to find a custom cut piece of plywood from Lowes or HD but you are going to pay a premium for it from those clowns. For like sized pieces I bet the HDPE would be almost as cheap and way more user friendly, I personally would go that route. My factory amp board is HDPE. I used Birch plywood for my sub box build, the HDPE Malibu POS sub box literally fell apart. The only tricky part will be getting the carpet to stick to the amp board, but there are glues available and you will most likely want to use SS staples on the back side just to be safe and give a nice finished look. I actually manage to find a near perfect carpet match in grey at HD. You will have to pay for a full run of carpet from them though, i.e. 2' x 8' or X' x what ever the width of the carpet is. You wouldn't necessarily need to use carpet. It just ends up being a heat sink anyway. It's out of sight and outta mind so really, why bother. I would do like a lot of us on here have done and use spacers under the amps To raise them off of the amp board to help in cooling.

Edited May 31, 2017 by wdr
After thoughts

[braindamage]

I think I'll buy hdpe and use spacers. Thanks wdr for the recommendation 

[braindamage]

I did my install this weekend. I have a problem with the sub.

here is what I have:

im using the iPhone via Bluetooth as my "head".

jbl mbt bluetooth. It only and has a Left and Right output so I split each, into the inputs of the Rockford fosgate Left Rear/front and Right Rear/front.

i have the cockpit speakers powered by the Rockford fosgate. All is well here.

i have the pass-through from the Rockford fosgate going to the input of the Polk. I split this as well, going to the front Left/right for the tower speakers (that works) and the other to the sub inputs.  No sub. I tried adjusting both "int" and "sub" input settings but no luck. I also tried a speaker I had laying around to see if there was any signal and to see if my sub is bad but no sound.

I know it's klugy but it's all I got for now.

any ideas why my sub won't work? I can create a diagram if that's helpful.

Edited July 2, 2017 by braindamage

[MLA]

Connect the BT directly to amp woofer inputs will tell you if its a signal issue or an amp/woofer issue. 

[braindamage]

I did connect the BT directly to the sub input...no sound.

weird though is that the tower speakers that are also powered by the amp work just fine.

Edited July 3, 2017 by braindamage

[MLA]

bad woofer, bad wiring to woofer, bad amp and incorrect amp setting. Ohm meter will knock half that out, manual will take care of one more. 

[braindamage]

I adjusted the amp settings and now the sub works!!

Now to hook up the volume control.

thanks to everyone for their help!!

Edited July 3, 2017 by braindamage

[braindamage]

Pic. It's behind the spotter seat.  I need to figure out where to mount the volume control. For now it's in the glove box.

https://goo.gl/photos/A5sNPtAsjT5LS5md8

let me know if the link works. It's my first attempt at google photos.

[braindamage]

Edit: crisis averted...I forgot that I left the original head unit in the power circuit. I need to turn that on and it should work.

Stereo stopped working. Bluetooth connects.

no power led’s on either amp when under power. I read 12v at amp input. When I cycle power, the power on led’s turn on and you hear the beeps from the speakers. Then the power lights immediately turn off at both amps. No sound. Dead. Repeat cycle, same result most of the time. Sometimes cycling power does nothing.

cant be a fuse, or it would only happen once. Same for a breaker.

confused...any ideas?

Edited May 17, 2019 by braindamage

[MLA]

Voltage on the turn-on circuit?

[braindamage]

Old topic...new issue.  I'm selling my SSLXi, but wouldn't you know it, the head unit quit.  When I did the original install I couldn't figure out how to remove the head unit from the power circuit, so I just turned it on and everything worked.  Does anyone know how to remove that from the power circuit so I can just have it dead?