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NMMalibuFamily

Fair price for winterization and oil change

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NMMalibuFamily

What's a fair "turn key" price to winterize an '09 LSV?  How about oil change?

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oldjeep

local dealer is $350 for oil change and winterization, extra $20 for a heater. Not sure what the get for an impeller, likely $100 or so.

I winterized and oil changed one Sunday plus an impeller He bought parts for about $100 and the labor cost him a 6 pack.    Prices vary a lot ;)

Edited by oldjeep

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shawndoggy

how far away is a hard freeze? 

There can be a wide disparity between what's fair and what it costs.  Fluid change (oil / filter / tranny fluid) is about $30 in parts, plus labor.  Dealers around me seem to charge $150-200 for an oil change and about $250-300 for "winterization" (variations based on whether there's a heater, whether they use antifreeze, whether they fog).

IMHO $500 is way too much, but I enjoy doing it myself.

 

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hethj7

A sample from one of the dealers near me is pasted below - I've sometimes had the dealer(s) do my service and sometimes do it myself, just depending on how busy I am personally at the time.  One advantage of having the dealer do it is you get to know them and then when you get in a pinch and need help with a quick part, diagnostic help, etc. they usually try to work you in.  Around here, the dealers are fairly small and I don't mind supporting them with my business when I can to try and make sure they are here for years to come.   

 

Is the pricing "fair"?  Quite frankly, it seems a little high for the work that is being done.  But, it's inline with the going rates and there are some intangibles in my mind that go along with it that I'm willing to pay for (supporting local small businesses and building a relationship with the dealer).  And just moving the boat in and out of their shop, putting the cover on, etc. takes time as well (vs. a car that you just drive in and out of a service bay).

 

 

Basic:          Drain block and refill with antifreeze, fog engine, stabilize fuel, check engine oil and outdrive lube.

Level 2           Basic package plus change engine oil and filter, and change outdrive lube.

Pricing*

 

Stern Drive

                                    4 Cylinder                 6 Cylinder                 8 Cylinder

Basic              $175                           $200                           $225

Level 2           $275                           $300                          $350

Level 3           $375                           $405                          $450

Inboard

            Basic                                                                                      $225   

            Level 2                                                                                   $325**

            *Big Block Engines Add $25.00/drive               *Synthetic Fluids Add $25

              *Volvos and Bravos Add $25.00 for Draining Seawater Pump

                                           ** Transmission Add $50

Additional Services:

            Fresh Water System/Shower     $50.00           Ballast System           $50.00

            Transmission Service                    $75.00           Heater                       $20.00

            

             Fuel Filters:  Spin On      $45.00           Inline $45.00            FCC    $125.00

 

 

Impeller Services:

 

       Alpha One Drive                           $150.00         w/Gear Lube         $225.00

       Bravo Drive (All)                           $250.00         Merc Inboards      $165.00         

       Volvo (All)                                      $150.00          V-drives                 $150.00         

                                                                                         Direct Drive          $135.00

 

Tune-UP Services: Dist Cap, Rotor, Plugs, and Carbon Cleaner

            Inboard/Sterndrive                                               $250.00

                        w/HVS                                                          $350.00                                             

 

Detail Services

            Acid Wash Hull/Pontoon’s                                  $12/ft. (Plus Zing)

            Polish and Wax                                                      $12/ft

            Interior Detail                                                         $12/ft

            Compound                                                               $12/ft

            Bottom Buff                                                             $12/ft

Any Two Services                                                                $20/ft

Any Three Services                                                             $30/ft

Any Four Services                                                               $40/ft

 

Outboards

            2-stroke

                        Fog, stabilize and gear lube.

                                    70hp or less                         $100.00

                                    75hp and up                        $150.00

            4-stroke

                        Fog, stabilize, gear lube, oil and filter change.

                                    0 – 25hp                                $175.00

                                    30 – 60hp                             $200.00

                                    75hp and up                        $225.00

 

 

 

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Bill_AirJunky

The dealer I work at charges $165 to freeze protect (no anti-freeze or fogging the cylinders on Malibu/Axis), & $325 for freeze protection, oil & filter change & check/top off the transmission & V-drive. Seems high to me but we'll do like 3000 boats this fall. And store close to 1800. 

Edited by Bill_AirJunky

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REW

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saxton15

+1. The piece of mind knowing what was done and how much anti-freeze you pumped in will help you sleep at night.  Plus the tools to get the winterizing portion of the block done are basic hand tools.  To help you out, you'll need a 1'' long socket to get the engine plugs off. This will make your life alot easier.  

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hethj7

I am usually a big DIY person in general but another reason for the dealer could be space. My boat doesn't fit in the garage and I get notices from the HOA pretty quickly sometimes when the boat is in the drive.  

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MadMan
5 hours ago, Bill_AirJunky said:

 $325 for freeze protection.    we'll do like 3000 boats this fall.

That's ~$1,000,000.

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oldjeep
27 minutes ago, MadMan said:

That's ~$1,000,000.

dr.-evil-million-dollar-term-policy-300x

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malibu2004
1 hour ago, hethj7 said:

I am usually a big DIY person in general but another reason for the dealer could be space. My boat doesn't fit in the garage and I get notices from the HOA pretty quickly sometimes when the boat is in the drive.  

It only takes about 4 or 6 hours max to do. 

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Michigan boarder
3 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

Do

It

Yourself

Typical excuses not to DIY a winterization:

I don't have the time:
It doesn't take that long.  You somehow have the time to get it out, hook it up to your vehicle, tow it to the dealer/shop.  Talk to them, park/unhook it and drive home.  Once they call, do that whole process all over again.  Depending on the shop you use, you could spend more time doing that than just doing it in your driveway at your leisure.  Even if that trip is short for you, is your time (that you can do when YOU want to do it) worth $100/hour cash or more? 

Piece of mind:
It isn't hard.  You will likely do a better job than the dealer will anyway, as this is a busy time for them and they are just trying to bust through these as fast as possible.  Wait until spring - you will see a pile of posts about how a block is cracked, drain plugs were forgotten about, heater core leaking, etc.  Dealers screw this up on the regular.

I don't have all the tools needed:
Then buy them.  You can get them online and sent to your door.  Even after buying all the tools/materials, you will still be ahead financially.

 

Right on.  My boat doesn't fit in my garage either, I quickly winterize it in an afternoon and list the stuff I need to do over the winter, leave it sit overnight and haul it away in the morning to storage.  Really, really easy. 

And I didn't track dirt in it, leave grease marks on the gunnel, lose the key or cover, or leave it out uncovered in the rain.

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malibu2004

People that I know who do it themselves have never had a problem when doing it themselves. Never not one time when it comes to spring time.

People that take it to the dealers that I know have constant issues with what the dealers did in to winterize it. These people then have to take the boat out of the water take it the dealer and wait for it to get fixed. 

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Sixball
3 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

Do

It

Yourself

Typical excuses not to DIY a winterization:

I don't have the time:
It doesn't take that long.  You somehow have the time to get it out, hook it up to your vehicle, tow it to the dealer/shop.  Talk to them, park/unhook it and drive home.  Once they call, do that whole process all over again.  Depending on the shop you use, you could spend more time doing that than just doing it in your driveway at your leisure.  Even if that trip is short for you, is your time (that you can do when YOU want to do it) worth $100/hour cash or more? 

Piece of mind:
It isn't hard.  You will likely do a better job than the dealer will anyway, as this is a busy time for them and they are just trying to bust through these as fast as possible.  Wait until spring - you will see a pile of posts about how a block is cracked, drain plugs were forgotten about, heater core leaking, etc.  Dealers screw this up on the regular.

I don't have all the tools needed:
Then buy them.  You can get them online and sent to your door.  Even after buying all the tools/materials, you will still be ahead financially.

 

Piece of mind:  Yeper for me I get it when I do it, and I know someone that's doing boat after boat has not shortcut or cranked my oil filter on so tight its not ever coming off again.  as for tools just not much needed. Hay some people should not touch a simple tool but if you can after the first time it takes a small amount of time. 

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Bill_AirJunky
2 hours ago, MadMan said:

That's ~$1,000,000.

10 full time techs. 25 buildings just for storing boats, and breaking ground on a giant new service center in November. Storage for a 21' boat is around $800 for the winter.

 

BTW, I do it myself. Not that the shop isn't totally capable, but I might winterize the boat several times before I'm done for the year.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky

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oldjeep

Wow, never seen a storage compound like that.

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Bill_AirJunky
Just now, oldjeep said:

Wow, never seen a storage compound like that.

The crazy part is they have the land & permits in place for a total of 60 buildings. This summer they added 5. The location is about 10 miles away from the marina, where they have 2 pieces of land that are used for storing trailers in the summer, and boats that are being worked on, waiting for parts, short term storage, etc. The other day I overheard a conversation about installing a rack to start storing boats vertically too.    :Doh:

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Michigan boarder
8 minutes ago, Bill_AirJunky said:

The other day I overheard a conversation about installing a rack to start storing boats vertically too.    :Doh:

The sooner they do that the better.  Big investment but huge efficiencies.  Lots of empty cubic feet above all those boats and lots of roofs.

Still, a really sweet compound!

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footndale

A mobile guy in my area.

 

WINTERIZING

ORDER YOUR WINTERIZATION HERE
Below are the winterizing packages that are offered through AJ’s Mobile Marine. By filling out the following form you are contacting AJ’s Mobile Marine and letting us know you are interested in this package.   You can expect us to contact you within 1 business day.  Please fill in as much information as possible.

I/O AND INBOARD PACKAGES
PACKAGE ONE

Drain & Flush all water from engine
Fog engine & Stabilize fuel
Change fuel filter if applicable (add $12.00)
Top off all fluids
 4 CYLINDERS, $130.00
 6 CYLINDERS, $145.00
 8 CYLINDERS, $158.00
PACKAGE TWO

Drain & Flush all water from engine
Fog engine & Stabilize fuel
Change fuel filter if applicable (add $12.00)
Top off all fluids
Change oil & filter
Change gear lube or transmission fluid
Grease all lube points
 4 CYLINDERS, $235.00
 6 CYLINDERS, $251.00
 8 CYLINDERS, $264.00
PACKAGE THREE

Drain & Flush all water from engine
Fog engine & Stabilize fuel
Change fuel filter if applicable (add $12.00)
Top off all fluids
Change oil & filter
Change gear lube or transmission fluid
Grease all lube points
Pull Drive (check & grease gimble bearing & u-joints)
 4 CYLINDERS, $306.00
 6 CYLINDERS, $322.00
 8 CYLINDERS, $334.00

http://ajsmobilemarine.com/winterizing/

 

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sunvalleylaw
6 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

Do

It

Yourself

Typical excuses not to DIY a winterization:

I don't have the time:
It doesn't take that long.  You somehow have the time to get it out, hook it up to your vehicle, tow it to the dealer/shop.  Talk to them, park/unhook it and drive home.  Once they call, do that whole process all over again.  Depending on the shop you use, you could spend more time doing that than just doing it in your driveway at your leisure.  Even if that trip is short for you, is your time (that you can do when YOU want to do it) worth $100/hour cash or more? 

Piece of mind:
It isn't hard.  You will likely do a better job than the dealer will anyway, as this is a busy time for them and they are just trying to bust through these as fast as possible.  Wait until spring - you will see a pile of posts about how a block is cracked, drain plugs were forgotten about, heater core leaking, etc.  Dealers screw this up on the regular.

I don't have all the tools needed:
Then buy them.  You can get them online and sent to your door.  Even after buying all the tools/materials, you will still be ahead financially.

 

I paid to have this done this time, (but only $170.00, w/o oil change which I do myself), as I had not done it yet.  My rig is a '98 with the 350 monsoon.  I think I saw a how to guide somewhere, and probably there is a tools list, so I can de-winterize it myself this spring, and start doing it on my own. My guy used anti-freeze too.   

 

EDIT:   I see the link to the article above.  Will check it out.  

Edited by sunvalleylaw

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The Hulk

are the newer 2016's easier to winterize? i'll be storing my boat in Heated storage at work which will be around 55F all winter long: my only fear is one of those weekends that go down to -10F and the building loosing power or something in an ice storm on friday night and not realizing i'm out of power until monday morning: although i may install a fire/power alarm with cell-notification at work to txt msg me if it goes out so i can turn on a portable heater if that happens. 

paying $500-600 for winterization each year gets a bit crazy... just wondering if i should even do it since i'm in heated storage? or do it myself.. 

if' i'm in heated storage should i only do oil change and other stuff with dealer and forget winterization stuff or do less of that stuff and myself? I kind of want to learn all about my boat this fall/winter , have some upgrades sub box/ballast/heater i want to figure out best way to install this fall/winter so might have to add winterizing myself to the list.

i also remember a video on YT with a guy installing a heater where he used a valve so he could easily open/close the water lines to easily blow out with a standard (air-pump) used for filling water-toys... so blowing the lines out via that method would seem super easy if you install the valves you would not even need to disconnect the hoses etc.. 

Edited by The Hulk

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footndale
5 minutes ago, The Hulk said:

are the newer 2016's easier to winterize? i'll be storing my boat in Heated storage at work which will be around 55F all winter long: my only fear is one of those weekends that go down to -10F and the building loosing power or something in an ice storm on friday night and not realizing i'm out of power until monday morning: although i may install a fire/power alarm with cell-notification at work to txt msg me if it goes out so i can turn on a portable heater if that happens. 

paying $500-600 for winterization each year gets a bit crazy... just wondering if i should even do it since i'm in heated storage? or do it myself.. 

if' i'm in heated storage should i only do oil change and other stuff with dealer and forget winterization stuff or do less of that stuff and myself? I kind of want to learn all about my boat this fall/winter , have some upgrades sub box/ballast/heater i want to figure out best way to install this fall/winter so might have to add winterizing myself to the list.

i also remember a video on YT with a guy installing a heater where he used a valve so he could easily open/close the water lines to easily blow out with a standard (air-pump) used for filling water-toys... so blowing the lines out via that method would seem super easy if you install the valves you would not even need to disconnect the hoses etc.. 

Don't you have a closed cooling system?

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The Hulk
Just now, footndale said:

Don't you have a closed cooling system?

whatever this thing is?

450.jpg

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footndale
Just now, The Hulk said:

whatever this thing is?

450.jpg

That's is a closed or partially closed cooling. Yikes, $500 for basically opening a few drains. I want that job.

Go to section 8-2 and do it yourself. http://www.themalibucrew.com/_files/engines/indmar_2016.pdf 

You basically just drain the water heat exchanger and change oil.

 

 

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