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The Hulk

Want a little extra thump for low budget

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The Hulk

Have a 2016 25lsv.

To me it seems the bass is actually a bit less than my 2013. Maybe it's a bigger boat or the sub area is less closed I don't know. Perhaps the 4 rev 8s and other speakers are so much louder that it seems I have less when I don't.. anyhow I'd like to cheaply get a little More deep bass.

Can I get the wetsounds XS-XXXv2 for $700 and just swap out my current sub and call it a day? Can I use my existing amp? Or break factory seal on current amp and just turn up the power a bit to power the bigger WS sub?

Was hopping this could be a quick fix.. To get me 1.5-2x more results..

The mounting board for the current sub is not as stiff as one might think so do I need to stiffen this up as well..

Looking to keep it under a grand if possible..if not possible or worth then tell me the minimal damage..to get something noticeable better.. 

 

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ahopkinsVTX

Cheapest solution I would think is to build a real box and tune the current amp in. 

Factory box is sub par at best and the amps come turned all the way down. No idea how that rf will sound though

And my other guess is if you upgrade the sub to WS, exile, jl, whatever you will need a new amp as well.

But I'll let the real stereo guys chime in. I'm just a cheap wanna be too :) 

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MLA
5 hours ago, The Hulk said:

Can I get the wetsounds XS-XXXv2 for $700 and just swap out my current sub and call it a day?

Well, yes, but you wont really notice a $700 increase in bass, here's why. Your 2016 is already running a 12" woofer. Swapping to another woofer of the same size with no increase in wattage or change in woofer enclosure, will be a near net zero increase in bass. Now, beyond this, the current enclosure/facade will not support the weight of the XXXv2, so, you would need to start from scratch and build a new enclosure. If you are going to make the investment in a $700 woofer and new enclosure, finish the race and upgrade the amp to something thats going to offer 1000W+ @ 4 ohm or 1 ohm. 

 

5 hours ago, The Hulk said:

Looking to keep it under a grand if possible.

This is totally doable if you choose the right woofer and amp setup and even building a new enclosure. Wet Sounds XS-12 and HTX2 or Kicker KX800.1 and CompVR 124 Just to make a few. 

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t a

The stock RF sub is not a terrible sub.  It just comes with a tiny box full of holes and an amp tuned all the way down as mentioned before.  Fix those 2 things and you'll have some pretty decent bass.  I also found turning the sub sideways towards hull seems to really increase the bass (similar to having it rear facing in a car instead of forward).  Firing into the hull seems to turn your whole boat into a sub.  You won't be winning any bass contests but I went from completely dissapointed to pleasantly surprised by fixing those things.  

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David

["Can I get the wetsounds XS-XXXv2 for $700 and just swap out my current sub and call it a day? Can I use my existing amp? Or break factory seal on current amp and just turn up the power a bit to power the bigger WS sub?"]

Many of the qualities that make for a high powered subwoofer also make it insensitive to low/moderate power. So with the XXX you would need a sub driver, a serious enclosure, and a much larger amplifier. That would certainly bust your budget. But, would be a great option if you decide to expand your budget.

At minimum, you need to address your sub enclosure. Then re-tune the sub amplifier. The existing sub driver is capable of so much more than what you have experienced. There has to be someone between Ft. Wayne and Coldwater who is qualified to custom build a marinized enclosure and re-tune the sub amp. And the off-season is perfect timing. As mentioned above, side-firing the sub/enclosure will net you a little more low bass output (easy and inexpensively).  

As an intermediate solution, a Wetsounds XS-12 sub driver, new enclosure, and new amplifier, would perform really well.    

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shawndoggy

Put your current sub in a real box and then actually tune the amp ("break the seal" as you have suggested) and chances are you'll be totally satisfied.  Less than $100 in materials if you are handy with a table saw and router.

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Fman

Hulk, if you have a heater I would recommend this model of the Qbomb, it is narrowed at the top of the box to allow heater clearance.  These models seem to becoming less available, I just ordered mine today for my lsv.  I do not think Qbomb actually makes them anymore, they are just left over from surplus inventory.  Would order sooner than later before they are extinct.

QBOMB12SSINGLE__37527.1406268100.1280.12

http://distributoroutlets.com/catalog/product/view/id/72445

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ahopkinsVTX

Side question, do they make a 10" model?

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Fman
The Hulk
4 hours ago, Fman said:

Hulk, if you have a heater I would recommend this model of the Qbomb, it is narrowed at the top of the box to allow heater clearance.  These models seem to becoming less available, I just ordered mine today for my lsv.  I do not think Qbomb actually makes them anymore, they are just left over from surplus inventory.  Would order sooner than later before they are extinct.

QBOMB12SSINGLE__37527.1406268100.1280.12

http://distributoroutlets.com/catalog/product/view/id/72445

Just ordered this to get started..

 

I'm confused is there a box behind my flimsy sheet? Didn't check but just thought there was a hole in a sheet and no box behind there? 

Question won't sealing off the whole compartment give me more air space behind sub and bigger bass than a small box like I just ordered? 

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Fman

I have never ordered a Malibu with the factory stereo so I cant help you on what they are using for a standard box, or if there even is one there.  I do know the Qbomb box you just ordered I used in my last boat with the Exile 12" sub and it was a great setup.  It believe it is 1.3/1.4 cu ft which is about ideal for most 12" subs, you will be pleased with the setup and I am pretty sure it will be much better than your current setup.

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The Hulk

So my flimsy kick plate beauty panel will just mount to the front of this thing? Have not installed heater yet.. actually considering where I want to install heater want to look onto the 6 port one and run more smaller lines around boat..

 

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The Hulk

OK so drop the sub in this box then how do I tune it?  just turn up the power on amp? How do I know I won't blow it in a random song? No idea what the current sub can or can not handle.

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hethj7
1 minute ago, The Hulk said:

So my flimsy kick plate beauty panel will just mount to the front of this thing? Have not installed heater yet.. actually considering where I want to install heater want to look onto the 6 port one and run more smaller lines around boat..

 

If you have the kick panel off, check out this thread for a few photos of heater tube placements in that panel. 

 

 

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hethj7

Oh, and there is a box behind that kick panel - it just isn't well sealed.  Photos in this thread -

 

 

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Fman

What I would recommend is mounting the sub box affixed to the floor somehow, I used L brackets and elevated the box up about 1" with some rubber stoppers.  I used 3 points of anchoring, the rear corner was too tight on my vlx so I did not use that rear corner.  The 25 LSV might might have much more space to work with.  Once the box is mounted place the kick panel flush with the box, drill a 4" hole in the kick panel, make sure its close enough to the center of the Qbomb box (does not need to be perfect).  Place your hand inside the qbomb box and trace out the 12" opening in qbomb box that will mark the inside of the kick panel.  Now you have your 12" hole template to cut the kick panel that aligns with the Qbomb box.  If you want to have the sub sit flush with the panel use the subwoofer on the inside of the kick panel and trace that pattern centered with the one you just traced.  This will have the sub sit flush with the kick panel once you screw it into the Qbomb.  If you choose the flush mount the nice thing is you can easily remove the kick panel without having to remove the sub every time, I would recommend this way of doing it, you would only need to remove the cover.   You can also screw a couple screws into the box and qbomb box once you have everything mounted up if you want some extra stability, the carpet will hide the screws and you will never see them.  Does this make sense?

Edited by Fman

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MLA
15 minutes ago, The Hulk said:

Question won't sealing off the whole compartment give me more air space behind sub and bigger bass than a small box like I just ordered?

No, because that would not be the ideal match for that woofer's parameters. 2nd, thered be no way to do that in a Bu. What you likely have now, is as useful as a screen door on a submarine. 

 

4 minutes ago, The Hulk said:

So my flimsy kick plate beauty panel will just mount to the front of this thing?

In theory, yes. However, you've now got a pre-made box you need to fit to a facade with an existing hole and fit it all in a fixed cavity. 

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The Hulk
7 minutes ago, hethj7 said:

Oh, and there is a box behind that kick panel - it just isn't well sealed.  Photos in this thread -

 

 

Ohhh lord that's my sub box? Lord Malibu put a 60 dollar box in there please

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hethj7
Just now, The Hulk said:

Ohhh lord that's my sub box? Lord Malibu put a 60 dollar box in there please

I get mad every time I listen to my stereo to the point I think my dealer should pay to make it all right.  But, they treat me well otherwise and for not much money and tuning, you can get a pretty respectable setup out of the stock components.  Just crazy Malibu can't do better though for the amount these boats costs.  

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The Hulk
1 hour ago, Fman said:

What I would recommend is mounting the sub box affixed to the floor somehow, I used L brackets and elevated the box up about 1" with some rubber stoppers.  I used 3 points of anchoring, the rear corner was too tight on my vlx so I did not use that rear corner.  The 25 LSV might might have much more space to work with.  Once the box is mounted place the kick panel flush with the box, drill a 4" hole in the kick panel, make sure its close enough to the center of the Qbomb box (does not need to be perfect).  Place your hand inside the qbomb box and trace out the 12" opening in qbomb box that will mark the inside of the kick panel.  Now you have your 12" hole template to cut the kick panel that aligns with the Qbomb box.  If you want to have the sub sit flush with the panel use the subwoofer on the inside of the kick panel and trace that pattern centered with the one you just traced.  This will have the sub sit flush with the kick panel once you screw it into the Qbomb.  If you choose the flush mount the nice thing is you can easily remove the kick panel without having to remove the sub every time, I would recommend this way of doing it, you would only need to remove the cover.   You can also screw a couple screws into the box and qbomb box once you have everything mounted up if you want some extra stability, the carpet will hide the screws and you will never see them.  Does this make sense?

Yes I like the idea if separated kick plate and box and easier quicker access

Thanks for the detail.

Any idea how I tune the amp or just turn it up?

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Fman

I have very limited experience on tuning, for the sub I did use a sample track ranging from 40hz-0db to push the sub and set the gain, LPF and bass boost.  I felt I was able to get it to a good tone and not damage the sub with that sample track.  The sub sounded great so I must have been within specs on the tune.

I am sure there are a few installers on here that can help you out.  When I install my Exile system in my 2017 I will reach out to Brian for some assistance with the tuning again. Exile does give some basic tuning guidelines in there install directions, you might be able to find something online with the amp you have to give you a baseline setting.

Edited by Fman

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IXFE
3 hours ago, The Hulk said:

Yes I like the idea if separated kick plate and box and easier quicker access

Thanks for the detail.

Any idea how I tune the amp or just turn it up?

 

Some pics of my Qbomb install here...

 

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minnmarker
18 hours ago, The Hulk said:

Any idea how I tune the amp or just turn it up?

I "tune" my sub all the time - for different songs - with the zone controller.  There is no optimum sub level or even low pass setting for any particular amp/sub combo.  It depends on what you're listening to and your taste - or your wife's taste!

First take those warranty stickers off.  Start with gains in the middle.  Gotta set the cabins first by listening to what the lowest frequency and gain they can handle on their own when playing whatever bassy music you like - then set the high pass just a bit higher).  Then you set the sub low pass just a bit higher than where the cabin speakers high pass is set.  Now turn your source all the way up and turn the woofer amp gain up until it starts to distort - then turn it down a bit.  After it's set up use the zone controller (or remote bass boost - same thing) to get where you want for different music.

XS-12 with a Kicker CX1200.1 is a good combo.  Amp/sub can be had on Amazon for < $500 total.

If the stereo pros jump on this I disavow any knowledge of how good my amateur tune sounds :whistle:

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store934

I have gone the qbomb route as well and it works great but it will take a little time to get it all figured out.  I tried to order the slanted one above last year and what showed up in the mail was the square one... not pleased but I made it work.   I hope you have better luck on your order   I had to move my heater core higher and take my hot tube apart to keep the same depth of the existing kick panel.  You will also need to order some new carpet for your new kick panel you will need to make.  That will take some time for them (dealer) to get in and cost me about 40 bucks. 

If you are looking for a quick and cheap win his year for a little more thump grab a tube of silicone and seal the crap of the inside and outside of the existing box and around the speaker wire (add another section to make it easy to put the box in and out).  Make sure you also add some closed cell foam weather stripping between the sub and the box.  You will need to trim the carpet back about a 1/2 inch for get a good seal between the sub and the box.

You should have the same amps as I do.  Here are the tuning files you need to get a basic tune and the procedure.  YouTube has a few videos on setting the gains for the Rockford CLEAN amps as well.

http://rftech.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1126/~/c.l.e.a.n.-set-up-procedure-to-adjust-amplifier-gains

For about 30 minutes of labor (not counting  dry time) you will have a better sounding system will better bass.  I have done this twice now and it does make a difference for minimal effort.  Focus on the rest of the upgrades and fine tune when the snow is flying.

 

 

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