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Engine Nut

Anti-Freeze Protection Levels

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MalibuNation

Thanks EngineNut.  I'll pin this.

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pauley71
2 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Yes.  There are few that price that have good reviews.  

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ahopkinsVTX

Safe to leave the heater core full too then?

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Engine Nut
2 hours ago, ahopkinsTXi said:

Safe to leave the heater core full too then?

Yes, heater is part of the closed system. The heater should heat a lot better with a closed cooling system also.

9 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Should work jut fine. That's a good price. I paid 3 times that amount for the one I have.

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Soon2BV
10 hours ago, oldjeep said:

I don't have one of these engines, but i may buy one of these tools anyway - just for the cool of it. 

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Engine Nut
13 hours ago, Soon2BV said:

I don't have one of these engines, but i may buy one of these tools anyway - just for the cool of it.

It also works on the anti-freeze in your car or truck and measures battery acid concentration so it is easy to justify!!!

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CedarLakeSkier
2 hours ago, Engine Nut said:

It also works on the anti-freeze in your car or truck and measures battery acid concentration so it is easy to justify!!!

I wouldn't suggest using the same refractometer, but a refractometer is also used in making beer to identify the BRIX/specific gravity before and after fermentation which allows you to determine the ABV.

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Sixball

Good posting E.N.   Thanks!

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The Hulk

Noticed I'm down to the min level any brand u guys recommend for filling my 50/50 mix ?

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granddaddy55

My question no one answers yet, why would people drain heater core vs get antifreeze in there through winterize , what's the diff and why 

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ahopkinsVTX

It would be pretty hard to get anti-freeze in there. It is pretty simple to drain it on 100% raw water cooled systems. A lot of people don't even put antifreeze in their engine blocks.

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bamaboy
8 minutes ago, granddaddy55 said:

My question no one answers yet, why would people drain heater core vs get antifreeze in there through winterize , what's the diff and why 

I agree with Hop.  How would you put antifreeze in a heater core?  Disconnect both lines, blow out or shop vac out water....done

Edited by bamaboy

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oldjeep
5 minutes ago, ahopkinsTXi said:

It would be pretty hard to get anti-freeze in there. It is pretty simple to drain it on 100% raw water cooled systems. A lot of people don't even put antifreeze in their engine blocks.

Hard to get antifreeze in there?  All you do is pull the upper heater line off the engine, stick a funnel in it and pour in antifreeze (One of the 2 lines you took off to drain it).  Takes a couple minutes tops.

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oldjeep
2 minutes ago, bamaboy said:

I agree with Hop.  How would you put antifreeze in a heater core?  Disconnect both lines, blow out or shop vac out water....done

The why is because heater cores tend to rot when they are empty but moist and the corrosion protection of the antifreeze helps stop that.

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ahopkinsVTX
2 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Hard to get antifreeze in there?  All you do is pull the upper heater line off the engine, stick a funnel in it and pour in antifreeze (One of the 2 lines you took off to drain it).  Takes a couple minutes tops.

Most lines run up hill to the heater because they are under the floor and then the heater is at very least mounted on top of the floor, some higher. How do you know antifreeze is actually making it into the heater core? When you pour it in do you see it come out the return as well?

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granddaddy55

Ok good stuff, but what if I really heated it up

and then did my perko flush with the tank feed from overtons with enough antifreeze in it(many gallons) why wouldn't it eventually get in core, am I spilling to much antifreeze on ground and not good for environment ? It's got to get in there no??  How does hot water get in the core??

in other words your doing the full manual emptying procedure for block, hoses and exhaust or your antifreeze winterizing???  Why the hybrid?  

people posted "I ruined heater core after I winterized with 5 gallons of antifreeze??"

Edited by granddaddy55

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ahopkinsVTX

Because at idle there is little to no flow to the heater unless you have an auxiliary pump. 

Its better to just drain the heater. Then you know for sure. 

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granddaddy55
22 minutes ago, ahopkinsTXi said:

Because at idle there is little to no flow to the heater unless you have an auxiliary pump. 

Its better to just drain the heater. Then you know for sure. 

Ok got it, and risking exhaust manifold temps by raising the Rpms to say 2500+ On the perko won't do it and I'd have too much risk to exhaust , and if I idled or higher rpms(1000+) with heater till hot air was actually blowing from heater, and then raise rpms to 2500+ again and turn on valve on flush tank, sorry for being such a candy a** but if I can avoid a wrench I do it and yes I see it clearly labeled and accessible  with the tape or thread glue on it.

ok I got it, you go with this hybrid cause of risk to delicate core regardless to avoid an explensive repair.  And even a light hard freeze could break the plastic vs the metal of motor. 

Edited by granddaddy55

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granddaddy55

By the way, I've got a plan for the cold weather, we have .5 millimeter island style dive wetsuits, plan to use them like pajamas in the boat, and put back on after stripping full or short suit and putting it in warm tray. we'll stay toasty even without the wrap around windshield my axis doesn't have and we'll be putting warm wet suits and jackets back on warm toasty bodies, can't afford the dry suits this year

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oldjeep
6 hours ago, ahopkinsTXi said:

Most lines run up hill to the heater because they are under the floor and then the heater is at very least mounted on top of the floor, some higher. How do you know antifreeze is actually making it into the heater core? When you pour it in do you see it come out the return as well?

yes, comes out return and hose is held higher tan core and any other hose in system.

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MLA
On 11/12/2016 at 9:48 AM, granddaddy55 said:

My question no one answers yet, why would people drain heater core vs get antifreeze in there through winterize , what's the diff and why 

On an open cooling engine, the heater core should be drained of water, same as the engine, prior to flushing with the marine/rv anti-freeze. So if only a little a/f makes it way to the core, there's no water to freeze anyway. 

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UWSkier
On 11/12/2016 at 9:13 AM, ahopkinsTXi said:

Most lines run up hill to the heater because they are under the floor and then the heater is at very least mounted on top of the floor, some higher. How do you know antifreeze is actually making it into the heater core? When you pour it in do you see it come out the return as well?

I do this the old fashioned way.  Take both lines off.  Lay one in bilge.  Blow the other one manually until you hear it gurgle and water stops coming out.  Pour in RV anti-freeze to the feed line.  Blow some more until you see pink coming out the other hose.  It's not that hard.  Just apply a constant pressure.  Blow too hard and you'll get a bit light-headed.  :blush:

Don't use compressed air on heater cores.  They're super fragile.

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ahopkinsVTX
1 hour ago, UWSkier said:

I do this the old fashioned way.  Take both lines off.  Lay one in bilge.  Blow the other one manually until you hear it gurgle and water stops coming out.  Pour in RV anti-freeze to the feed line.  Blow some more until you see pink coming out the other hose.  It's not that hard.  Just apply a constant pressure.  Blow too hard and you'll get a bit light-headed.  :blush:

Don't use compressed air on heater cores.  They're super fragile.

I manually blow mine out too I just haven't put antifreeze in it before. 

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