Depth Finder Beep - FIXED

[NCVride]

So I thought I'd post a new topic on this to try and help those of us in the crew that have fought and battled this issue for a loooong time.  Wanted to put it all in one topic.  

Special thanks to Chris for being the Guinea Pig on this and ordering the transducer from Bakes.  He was willing to drop the coin to fix the problem.   I'm trying to help the rest of you guys save a little dough....maybe we should start a gofundme to pay him back.

I finally got around to repairing mine today.

If you guys are unfamiliar with the problem here is a synopsis.....some of the mid 2000's models(I have an '06) depth finders will stop functioning and show either 0.5' or 400' depth.  When it shows 0.5' it sets off the shallow alarm and beeps like crazy.  If this is your symptom the transducer is your fix.  

The factory thru hull transducer is no longer available nor is a direct plug and play glue in replacement.  Bakes does offer a glue in replacement that must be spliced in for somewhere around $200....this is where Chris gets many thanks.  He went out on the limb and ordered the transducer.

After seeing his reply with the transducer and that it worked, I went and started researching.   I called Lowrance and found that the transducer Bakes sells is a pretty standard run of the mill trolling motor transducer.   The transducer model is a PD-WBL 106-73.  You can find it online at Walmart or they are pretty well available on eBay for $75 bucks or so.  Make sure you get the 106-73 not the 106-74   The 74 has a temp sensor in it.   

As the Chris informed us in another topic you have to splice the old transducer connector onto the new transducer cable.   It's pretty simple.  Unplug the old connector from the module under the dash, cut it off of the old transducer cable - MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE ENOUGH TO STRIP AND SPLICE.    Go ahead and clip off the connector on the new cable as well.  

The old unit is just like a coax cable - insulated wire on the interior wrapped in what I'd call braided wire then rubber on the outside.  Strip your old transducer connector wire.  You should have 2 separate wires...the outer wire and the inner wire.  

Next strip the new transducer cable down to the wires inside.  You'll have a red, black and a few other colors.  The only wires you need for the splice are the red and black.  Clip the other wires back short   If I recall, with the red wire there is an exposed silver wire, cut it short as well.   Strip the red and black wires.  Solder the outer wire from the old connector to the black wire in the new cable.  Solder the inner wire from the old connector to the red wire on the new cable.  Use heat shrink wrap around the soldered connections.(The original directions recommended this).  I followed up the heat shrink with plenty of electrical tape.  

After I soldered the wires and sealed the connection, I took a few minutes to test the setup before I epoxied the transducer in and ran the wires(benefit of having a lift and dock).  After finding out it worked, I went ahead and ran the transducer cable.  I ran my cable around in the sidewall of the boat since it was impossible to run it through the bilge.  

Lastly, rough up the fiberglass in the bilge area and use some marine epoxy and epoxy the transducer down.  

There you have it guys.   Hope it helps a lot of you.  

 

[Soon2BV]

Thanks for this post. 

I have a 2008, and my main issue is the 400'. Do you think this will solve that issue as well? You mention the 0.5' issue specifically. 

[NCVride]

On July 6, 2016 at 10:30 PM, Soon2BV said:

Thanks for this post. 

I have a 2008, and my main issue is the 400'. Do you think this will solve that issue as well? You mention the 0.5' issue specifically. 

Hey Soon2.  In my shadetree mechanic opinion, I think it will.  In my research over the past couple of years, I have read and been told that if the depth is reading 0.5 OR 400' then it's the transducer.  Only if it is reading "BAD" is it the depth finder module.   For 75-80 bucks it's certainly worth trying the transducer.  

[Andrzejsl]

Hey @NCVride thanks for responding to my old post on this, question, so I've got a similar problem but not quite the same, I have a depth finder module but no depth finder. So I have no old transducer to splice out the connector to put it on a new one. Any suggestions here? Or is there anywhere I can buy an old connector and splice it in? Thanks.

[NCVride]

On 7/13/2016 at 9:47 AM, Andrzejsl said:

Hey @NCVride thanks for responding to my old post on this, question, so I've got a similar problem but not quite the same, I have a depth finder module but no depth finder. So I have no old transducer to splice out the connector to put it on a new one. Any suggestions here? Or is there anywhere I can buy an old connector and splice it in? Thanks.

I'm assuming by having no depthfinder, you mean there is no transducer plugged into the back of the module?   I would assume that somewhere along the way there was a transducer plugged into the back of the module and someone disconnected it because it didn't work.  First thing I would do and search everywhere under the helm to see if you can find it.  Maybe locate the original thru hull transducer back by the engine and trace back from there.  

If you can't find a connector, I am not sure where I would start.  Probably the best place to start would be call you local dealer and see if they have one laying around.  If they don't maybe one of the guys here on the site that just installed a new depthfinder all together instead of just a transducer would be willing to cut theirs and give to you.  

If neither of those options work, Bakes may be your best resource.  I have talked to them multiple times about multiple things and they seem to be the BIGGEST resource out there as far as knowledge on parts, etc.  The reason you have to splice the new transducer in is because noone makes a transducer with the type of connector we need anymore.  You may, and I stress may, be able to open up the module and hardwire a transducer in without a connector, but that is way above my pay grade.

[chris4x4gill2]

Glad you got it installed. Glad i could help with figuring out the "generic" replacement module. I looked for that info before finally breaking down and buying the bakes kit.

[NCVride]

On 7/16/2016 at 1:11 AM, chris4x4gill2 said:

Glad you got it installed. Glad i could help with figuring out the "generic" replacement module. I looked for that info before finally breaking down and buying the bakes kit.

Well....if I ever get down to Alabama, I'll make it up to you!!!    You ever get that suckgate working?

[chris4x4gill2]

I did. Worked great once i got it lower on the hull where it had a flatter mounting spot. I yhink the next version will have steeper angle on the blade. 

[Travisvtx]

Is there a way to do this with a sensor that has temperature anybody know the wiring for that sensor setup

[justgary]

19 hours ago, Travisvtx said:

Is there a way to do this with a sensor that has temperature anybody know the wiring for that sensor setup

Are you saying that your temperature/clock display is beeping?  

Mine started beeping after it got warm, and got really consistent after several months.  I would get only a few minutes of quiet before it would start beeping.  I finally figured out that it acted like the mode button was pushed all the time (and it beeps every time the mode changes), so after two years I finally decided to take it apart and look for a bad capacitor or something.

As I carefully sawed the housing apart and removed the display from the bezel, I noticed a very tiny hair stuck in the silvered layer used for the contact pressure point for the mode button.  I used a small tweezer and a magnifying glass to remove the hair, then put it all back together and tested it.  No more beep.  I used epoxy to reassemble the case and installed it again.  Several years later, no more beep, and the clock/thermometer works fine.

A manufacturing defect that took about 16 years to manifest itself and cause trouble.  Crazy!

[Travisvtx]

No I'm not having a problem with beeping but my depth sensor is acting up and I also have temperature gauge the wiring diagram above describe the installation with depth gauge only was hoping to wire in a transducer with depth and temperature to work with my factory gauges if anybody has done this let me know the wiring connections and I'll give it a try thanks again

 

[JPeepe]

On 6/18/2016 at 9:53 PM, NCVride said:

So I thought I'd post a new topic on this to try and help those of us in the crew that have fought and battled this issue for a loooong time.  Wanted to put it all in one topic.  

Special thanks to Chris for being the Guinea Pig on this and ordering the transducer from Bakes.  He was willing to drop the coin to fix the problem.   I'm trying to help the rest of you guys save a little dough....maybe we should start a gofundme to pay him back.

I finally got around to repairing mine today.

If you guys are unfamiliar with the problem here is a synopsis.....some of the mid 2000's models(I have an '06) depth finders will stop functioning and show either 0.5' or 400' depth.  When it shows 0.5' it sets off the shallow alarm and beeps like crazy.  If this is your symptom the transducer is your fix.  

The factory thru hull transducer is no longer available nor is a direct plug and play glue in replacement.  Bakes does offer a glue in replacement that must be spliced in for somewhere around $200....this is where Chris gets many thanks.  He went out on the limb and ordered the transducer.

After seeing his reply with the transducer and that it worked, I went and started researching.   I called Lowrance and found that the transducer Bakes sells is a pretty standard run of the mill trolling motor transducer.   The transducer model is a PD-WBL 106-73.  You can find it online at Walmart or they are pretty well available on eBay for $75 bucks or so.  Make sure you get the 106-73 not the 106-74   The 74 has a temp sensor in it.   

As the Chris informed us in another topic you have to splice the old transducer connector onto the new transducer cable.   It's pretty simple.  Unplug the old connector from the module under the dash, cut it off of the old transducer cable - MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE ENOUGH TO STRIP AND SPLICE.    Go ahead and clip off the connector on the new cable as well.  

The old unit is just like a coax cable - insulated wire on the interior wrapped in what I'd call braided wire then rubber on the outside.  Strip your old transducer connector wire.  You should have 2 separate wires...the outer wire and the inner wire.  

Next strip the new transducer cable down to the wires inside.  You'll have a red, black and a few other colors.  The only wires you need for the splice are the red and black.  Clip the other wires back short   If I recall, with the red wire there is an exposed silver wire, cut it short as well.   Strip the red and black wires.  Solder the outer wire from the old connector to the black wire in the new cable.  Solder the inner wire from the old connector to the red wire on the new cable.  Use heat shrink wrap around the soldered connections.(The original directions recommended this).  I followed up the heat shrink with plenty of electrical tape.  

After I soldered the wires and sealed the connection, I took a few minutes to test the setup before I epoxied the transducer in and ran the wires(benefit of having a lift and dock).  After finding out it worked, I went ahead and ran the transducer cable.  I ran my cable around in the sidewall of the boat since it was impossible to run it through the bilge.  

Lastly, rough up the fiberglass in the bilge area and use some marine epoxy and epoxy the transducer down.  

There you have it guys.   Hope it helps a lot of you.  

 

This is awesome thanks!

[irishrover]

I believe there may be another option. This would not require splicing wires. I have a 2006 Malibu VLX wakesetter and the depth finder transducer is either not working or working erratically. I get the same shallow alarm all the time. I was able to find a new transducer from great lakes Skipper website that has the same connector to the depth finder module. The transducer is an Airmar 2 inch diameter through the hull mount. I have connected the transducer to the existing module and while holding the transducer over the edge of the boat, I was getting accurate readings and various depths.  The only thing I need to do now is remove the old transducer and replace it with a new one once I get the boat out of the water. From my previous searches, the factory installed transducer should be a 2 inch diameter. Hope this helps.

https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/airmar-boat-max-hull-transducer-31-182-1-01-crownline-2-inch-black#additional

 

[Overcastvtx]

How do you access the inside of the hull where the transducer is located?

Edited August 25, 2022 by Overcastvtx

[REHinH20]

Mine is right in front of my raw water pump.

[Nutriscitoo]

On 6/18/2016 at 7:53 PM, NCVride said:

So I thought I'd post a new topic on this to try and help those of us in the crew that have fought and battled this issue for a loooong time.  Wanted to put it all in one topic.  

Special thanks to Chris for being the Guinea Pig on this and ordering the transducer from Bakes.  He was willing to drop the coin to fix the problem.   I'm trying to help the rest of you guys save a little dough....maybe we should start a gofundme to pay him back.

I finally got around to repairing mine today.

If you guys are unfamiliar with the problem here is a synopsis.....some of the mid 2000's models(I have an '06) depth finders will stop functioning and show either 0.5' or 400' depth.  When it shows 0.5' it sets off the shallow alarm and beeps like crazy.  If this is your symptom the transducer is your fix.  

The factory thru hull transducer is no longer available nor is a direct plug and play glue in replacement.  Bakes does offer a glue in replacement that must be spliced in for somewhere around $200....this is where Chris gets many thanks.  He went out on the limb and ordered the transducer.

After seeing his reply with the transducer and that it worked, I went and started researching.   I called Lowrance and found that the transducer Bakes sells is a pretty standard run of the mill trolling motor transducer.   The transducer model is a PD-WBL 106-73.  You can find it online at Walmart or they are pretty well available on eBay for $75 bucks or so.  Make sure you get the 106-73 not the 106-74   The 74 has a temp sensor in it.   

As the Chris informed us in another topic you have to splice the old transducer connector onto the new transducer cable.   It's pretty simple.  Unplug the old connector from the module under the dash, cut it off of the old transducer cable - MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE ENOUGH TO STRIP AND SPLICE.    Go ahead and clip off the connector on the new cable as well.  

The old unit is just like a coax cable - insulated wire on the interior wrapped in what I'd call braided wire then rubber on the outside.  Strip your old transducer connector wire.  You should have 2 separate wires...the outer wire and the inner wire.  

Next strip the new transducer cable down to the wires inside.  You'll have a red, black and a few other colors.  The only wires you need for the splice are the red and black.  Clip the other wires back short   If I recall, with the red wire there is an exposed silver wire, cut it short as well.   Strip the red and black wires.  Solder the outer wire from the old connector to the black wire in the new cable.  Solder the inner wire from the old connector to the red wire on the new cable.  Use heat shrink wrap around the soldered connections.(The original directions recommended this).  I followed up the heat shrink with plenty of electrical tape.  

After I soldered the wires and sealed the connection, I took a few minutes to test the setup before I epoxied the transducer in and ran the wires(benefit of having a lift and dock).  After finding out it worked, I went ahead and ran the transducer cable.  I ran my cable around in the sidewall of the boat since it was impossible to run it through the bilge.  

Lastly, rough up the fiberglass in the bilge area and use some marine epoxy and epoxy the transducer down.  

There you have it guys.   Hope it helps a lot of you.  

 

My boat is a 2008 20' sunscape with an intermittent depth gage...more off than on.  I have  tried the above suggestion with no luck.  I also tried installing a Airmar abyc h-27 (same plug as the module).  No luck.  So My question is: how do I know the problem is not the module instead of the transducer?  Maybe I'm  chasing the wrong problem...Does anyone have a suggestion?

ron