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Backing Trailer uphill with surge brakes


Roush611

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At the local gas station I often have to back up a small grade to get my boat next to the pump.  Would this cause the surge brakes to engage?  The reason I ask is it gets extremely difficult to back up as if the brakes are engaged on the trailer. Or is it possible my brakes are not working correctly?

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Yes, that pressure would cause your brakes to engage. Except, most trailers I have seen of your generation use the UFP system which has the electronic lockout. So it sounds like something is not quite working correctly.

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If you are using a 7 to 5 adapter make sure that it is wired correctly with a test light.  I had two that were incorrectly wired from the factory and would lock my brakes up in reverse if there was a slight incline.  

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There should be a brake lockout solenoid and a wire for it.  I think it's blue.  That's why the trailer harness has a 5 pin connector.  It gets connected to the tow vehicle backup lights either directly or through a relay - depending on vehicle.

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I would assume this is normal considering how surge brakes work on a 4 pin connector; a 5 or 7 should override the brakes. A magnet on the pin in the coupler should alleviate the problem, just don't forget to remove it before you starting driving. Take a look at this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BACK-UP-BUDDY-A-UFP-SURGE-BRAKE-LOCK-OUT-KEY-BOAT-TRAILER-MAGNETIC-KEY-/120941559235

magnet-lr.jpg.13030f0326e6785c6f1b1fb743

magnet_use-lr.thumb.jpg.4ab1bb7a7d5811f7

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Just now, minnmarker said:

There should be a brake lockout solenoid and a wire for it.  I think it's blue.  That's why the trailer harness has a 5 pin connector.  It gets connected to the tow vehicle backup lights either directly or through a relay - depending on vehicle.

The blue wire on the 7 pin adapter was hooked to the wrong pin.  The other 4 (green, yellow, brown, white) were correct.  

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1 minute ago, blk93jeepzj said:

If you are using a 7 to 5 adapter make sure that it is wired correctly with a test light.  I had two that were incorrectly wired from the factory and would lock my brakes up in reverse if there was a slight incline.  

Yes, I am using a round 7 to flat 5 adapter.  I will have to check it out. 

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After loosing a 5-7 adapter & then having one not work at all, I chose to rewire the trailer with a 7 round, coiled JetConnex connector. Only took a few minutes & really cleaned up the whole setup. No wires to drag or wrap around the trailer, no issues with trailer brakes or lights.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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14 minutes ago, Bill_AirJunky said:

After loosing a 5-7 adapter & then having one not work at all, I chose to rewire the trailer with a 7 round, coiled JetConnex connector. Only took a few minutes & really cleaned up the whole setup. No wires to drag or wrap around the trailer, no issues with trailer brakes or lights.

This is what I do, don't like using adapters.

 

Also, the lock-out only really applies to trailers with disc brakes.

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22 minutes ago, Bill_AirJunky said:

After loosing a 5-7 adapter & then having one not work at all, I chose to rewire the trailer with a 7 round, coiled JetConnex connector. Only took a few minutes & really cleaned up the whole setup. No wires to drag or wrap around the trailer, no issues with trailer brakes or lights.

Do you have the wiring diagram for a flat 5 to round 7? I know they are slightly different...

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I have an 04 Yukon and the factory 7 round has the pins listed and labeled on the cover.  Take a look and I'll try to post a pic for reference too.

 

IMG_3317.JPG

IMG_3317.JPG

Edited by blk93jeepzj
Added picture. Sorry it's sideways, and 2 pics.
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Center pin is reverse for surge brake lockout. Ignore the blue "brake control" wire for your boat trailer, that is for a dash mounted electric brake controller like on a camper or utility trailer that (hopefully) doesn't get dunked in a lake.

Also, on the actual connector, pins are labeled by number and color. Ignore the color label and use the numbers. The colors don't match, use the diagram below. 

7-Wire-Trailer-Diagram_zpskjfqsz2q.jpg

Edited by jk13
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If you don't want to buy the manual lockout device a nut and some tape put in the slot where the lockout goes work wonder's in a pinch, I can usually find both in my toolbox in the boat somewhere.

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I've been using a 5-7 adapter for years.  I'll wire mine to a 7 pin if I ever need to rewire; project isn't worth it unless needed.  Solenoid lockout > manual block-off key. 

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The other think that works a little nicer than the key is this.  I have one on my trailer for the places where it is a long way from launch to park so that I can completely disable the brakes when the trailer is empty - jumps around too much every time you slow down.

34359-w_1.jpg

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