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WesselVessel

Crazy Electrical Issue.

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WesselVessel

I hooked up my batteries back up to my 2009 WakeSetter XLT & without the ignition on, my heater fan turned on as soon as I turned my battery switch. Additionally, My amp power lights turn on and back off.  My stereo also turns on and then off.  Everything was working fine when I took it to be winterized and the batteries were fully charged when I hooked them up.  Seems like maybe a ground issue?  Thoughts?

 

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cowwboy

Sounds like you have a small amount f voltage bleeding by you switch. It is enough to turn on some items but not enough to keep higher power needy things on.

I would check the voltage on the output of the switches for the devices that are turning on. 

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oldjeep

you sure you didn't put one of your ground wires on a positive battery terminal?  is the heater fan actually blowing, or sucking?

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WesselVessel

Thanks for the input. My battery +/- terminal heads are not the same diameter, so it's impossible to hook them up incorrectly.  Heater fan is blowing (not sucking) as soon as I switch the power on & is non responsive to dash controls.  Was not having this issue when the dealer winterized it so it is a very strange issue.  I fully charged the barrettes before hooking them up & they most likely have a higher voltage than when in use during the boating season.  I left the power on battery one to see it anything changed when the voltage decreased.  My dash voltage guage shows the battery on @ 8.1 volts and battery 2 as 11.1 Volts.  Additionally, when power is on battery 1, the fan speed is slower than it is when on battery 2. 

 

 

Edited by WesselVessel

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oldjeep

@ 8.1 volts and battery 2 as 11.1 Volts.

Your batteries are both dead. 

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WesselVessel
On April 11, 2016 at 11:14 AM, oldjeep said:

@ 8.1 volts and battery 2 as 11.1 Volts.

Your batteries are both dead. 

I took the boat out last weekend with the current batteries & it fired right up.  Alternator took both batteries to what the dash listed as 12.4 volts and the issue still exists.  I'm not well versed on battery power, so I'm not sure how they would cause my issue.  Any additional input is greatly appriciated.

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oldjeep
8 minutes ago, WesselVessel said:

I took the boat out last weekend with the current batteries & it fired right up.  Alternator took both batteries to what the dash listed as 12.4 volts and the issue still exists.  I'm not well versed on battery power, so I'm not sure how they would cause my issue.  Any additional input is greatly appriciated.

Not a clue.  Sounds like a problem that is going to require a multi-meter, someone who knows how to use it and some time.

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Bozboat

Shawndoggy's Electrical Chart

1173347C-A7DB-4C2E-9203-37AD2CC7407C-478

Take the batteries into an auto part store and have them load tested.  If both batteries are good, then check the alternator output or have it checked.

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WesselVessel

Installed new batteries with the exact same result.  Without the key in the ignition, when I turn the perko switch to either battery, the heater fan turns on blowing air on high and with the exception of Maliview all controls panels turn on.

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mikeo

A few questions:

  1. Is it really the heater or the bilge/vent fan? Are you sure? My bilge fan has always turned on as soon as the boat has power...
  2. Did you check the key position? The older ignition key mechanisms tend to wear out and the key can be removed in multiple positions. If you have the ignition mechanism in a "run" or "accy" position (even without the key) the boat may turn on when you turn the battery switch. Try turning the key once you turn the battery switch, do things change? Wait ~90 seconds and see if the fan turns off, if so it may be the bilge fan.
  3. Did you check the wires behind the ignition key assembly? Is there something that caused a short on one of the wires? (dead bugs, other loose cable that fell down, bug nest, etc. It can be amazing what can conduct electricity)

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WesselVessel

Thanks mikeo, It is the heater fan on high (maybe even faster than normal high) and fan controls when running are non responsive.  Also, this happens when the keys are not in the ignition. I too questioned the ignition and wiring so I inspected the connections and even disconnected the ignition to see if that changed anything. Unfortunately, I have the same issue when the ignition wires are disconnected.  I've even left power on for hours to see if battery drain would change anything.  Ultimately, the fan speed slows down as battery power declines, but nothing changes. Additionally, this isn't just the fan running, but all electrical turning on except the maliview.  the dash displays on each side of the maliview turn on and then off, but all lower controls turn on and stay on without the ignition on.  Oh ya, I also pulled the heater fan fuse & the fan went off.  Put it back in and the fan is on.  

Edited by WesselVessel

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minnmarker

Is the fan on a relay?  If the wires are on the wrong terminals it could cause what you are seeing with the fan.

I think some amps do light up for a moment when their power supply is restored but the remote on lead is not energized - so maybe ignore the amp lights.

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WesselVessel

Fan is on high.  Pulled the fuse for now to stop it from running. The red power cables are on + and black is on - for both batteries.  Would think maybe it's the fan motor stuck, but both lower left and right dash controls power on too.

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cowwboy

To be honest you need to get a volt meter and start getting voltage measurements at the problem devices and go up the stream from there. 

This is more of a electrical gremlin and isn't going to be an easy forum answer besides look for corrosion or a frayed wire jumping somewhere. 

 

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formulaben
On 5/10/2016 at 1:51 PM, minnmarker said:

Is the fan on a relay?

I'm thinking stuck relay...

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coyote055

In the world of electricity, there is no such thing as magic. The fan is on because it has power (you proved that with the fuse). If the contacts in your control switches are stuck in the closed position, this would create the same symptoms. My $.02 would be to disconnect the switches from the fan, and see if it turns off. If it does, then use a multi meter to test the switch. I'll bet that the controls have corroded over the winter and turned into a wire. Good luck.

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ncarilli

Did you ever figure out this issue??  I am having the same exact problem on my 2010 247 LSV any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

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coyote055
1 hour ago, ncarilli said:

Did you ever figure out this issue??  I am having the same exact problem on my 2010 247 LSV any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

My money is still on the fan controls. If you are skippy with a multimeter, turn the controls off and measure the voltage between the incoming power terminal and the fan motor wire terminal. If you read no volts or very low voltage, then you may have to replace the controls. To verify that the controls are the culprit, you can disconnect the fan motor wires from the controls. If the fan quits running, replace the controls. You have some good luck as well.

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ncarilli

the MUX controls my heater not sure how I would text this?  Does anyone know if there is a relay to control the heater that may be stuck on?

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ncarilli

Well I talked to a few dealers and I talked to Bakes and I got different answers from everyone.  After tracing the wires I don't think there is a relay for the heater.  I am guessing its either a bad MUX switch or the heater slot in the main power module went bad.  Has anyone else been able to figure out the problem with the heater coming on and staying on as soon as the batteries are turned on.  The power module and the mux switch are two expensive parts to buy with out knowing for sure.

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shawndoggy

if you disconnect the heater from the MUX what happens?  What happens if you hook up a test light to the heater MUX output instead?

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ncarilli

When I disconnect the plug on the back of the MUX switch and turn the batteries on the heater still comes on, I haven't tried putting a test light on the heater MUX output I would have to figure out what pin that is.  I'm leaning toward a bad slot in the power module which is very frustrating because of how expensive they are.  I may just put a toggle switch on the orange power feed going to the heater rather than replace an $800 power module but I hate to rig up an expensive boat.  Its amazing how this happens out of no where with only 170 hours on the boat!

On 5/10/2016 at 4:35 PM, WesselVessel said:

Fan is on high.  Pulled the fuse for now to stop it from running. The red power cables are on + and black is on - for both batteries.  Would think maybe it's the fan motor stuck, but both lower left and right dash controls power on too.

WesselVessel did you ever figure out the issue with yours it sounds like my same exact problem!

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formulaben

Has anyone confirmed if there is a relay between the switch and the heater?

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WesselVessel
On June 9, 2016 at 1:03 PM, formulaben said:

Has anyone confirmed if there is a relay between the switch and the heater?  

Finally got the diagnosis from my Malibu dealer.  Not the MUX controller, but the circuit board behind the fuse panel (assuming that board contains a relay switch).  Out of warranty cost and an hour of shop time it's about $1k to fix.  Thinking of having them give me back the old board and sending it to this place for repair as a backup. http://www.acsindustrial.com/printed-circuit-board-repair.php?gclid=Cj0KEQjwnIm7BRDSs42KxLS8-6YBEiQAfDWP6Cz8lYzX5EhAK2T6mp09GPx6I0Tw5GMrWkfvTMRy4HkaAs-n8P8HAQ

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minnmarker
11 minutes ago, WesselVessel said:

Finally got the diagnosis from my Malibu dealer.  Not the MUX controller, but the circuit board behind the fuse panel (assuming that board contains a relay switch).  Out of warranty cost and an hour of shop time it's about $1k to fix.  Thinking of having them give me back the old board and sending it to this place for repair as a backup. http://www.acsindustrial.com/printed-circuit-board-repair.php?gclid=Cj0KEQjwnIm7BRDSs42KxLS8-6YBEiQAfDWP6Cz8lYzX5EhAK2T6mp09GPx6I0Tw5GMrWkfvTMRy4HkaAs-n8P8HAQ

Looks like a good service.  Makes sense.  What else runs through the board that you cannot live without?  Perhaps bypass the board for the stereo for the 2 weeks they take to fix it. 

Or do like you said and sell the fixed board to someone else on TMC having the same problem.  Repeat.  Repeat.  That's happening on my BMW forum with a VANOS (variable valve timing) solenoid pack.

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