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Battery and alternator requirements for wetsounds setup


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The 2004 lsv we just purchased needs a new stereo.  

I'm planing on using a Wetsounds syn 4 to power a pair of rev 10s and a Syn 6 to power the cabin speakers and a sub.  

The boat currently has 1 battery but I'd like to add a second and a charger with this kit. Blue Seas BatteryLink charger


We're not the type to tie up and blast the stereo all day but it would be nice to have a few hours play time with some factor of safety in the battery and charging systems.  Should I upgrade the alternator to a 100 or 120 amp or will the stock one work for my uses? 

The Blue seas battery link charger has a 65amp relay so if my alternator output more than that I'd have to get this add a battery kit and a separate charger which would be ok.  Is my stock alternator 60 amp?  The boat is still in storage.  Thanks. 

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I think the all-in-one battery charger/relay would be perfect for an outboard or jet boat using a light duty alternator or basic stators. The relay current capacity is barely over your alternator spec and the charger is 10 amps total (5 per bank). I would suggest stepping up to a 20 amp dual-bank charger and the separate Add-A-Battery kit. 

Unlike the Class H Syn4, the Syn6 is Class AB so it's not exactly a power miser. For a few hours of playtime I would recommend no less than a single group 31 battery for the stereo bank. Keep in mind that you want to limit your discharge level to about 12.0 volts after a long stay at rest.  

With a voltage sensing relay and the right AC shore Smart charger, I see no good reason why you would need to upgrade the alternator. The only time you would get into a deficit is if you had a long weekend at a distant destination where you had no AC access for several days.   

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In the same vein as David:


120 amp capacity.  Add a one or two bank charger (opinions vary).  Run the stereo off one battery and everything else off the other.  Never get stuck without starter battery power. No switching to do when leaving dock, floating, or returning.  Just plug it in when you get back to the dock.

I got talked into all Class D amps.  All good.

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5 hours ago, Gavin17 said:

 Should I upgrade the alternator



No, but I would suggest a 2nd battery bank. Either the dual circuit plus and ACR or a traditional 1/2/BOTH/OFF switch. Id consider a group 29 size battery for the house bank if room permits. 

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Even if you added a switch for safety, emergency bypass purposes, and dual-bank isolated shore charging, when used in conjunction with an ACR, the only time you would normally touch the switch is when you land the boat on the trailer or splash the boat. Never when out on the lake or river.   

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1 hour ago, Gavin17 said:

Could I replace my existing transom remote with a port like this so I could charge the boat without removing the cover or climbing in? 




Yep, that's what I have on a pontoon boat.  Your transom remote might have 3 holes, so you may have to plug two small outer holes and do a cosmetic fix up.  Either that or just hang the charger's 110V cord over the gunwale when you put the cover on.

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15 minutes ago, Gavin17 said:

Do you think that type of socket is waterproof enough to be on the transom of a ski boat?  Is it summer yet?

I think so.  This one might be a bit better?


It probably doesn't matter much as most everything back there is water proof anyway and the amount of water getting through would be zero to little if you used a little 4200 or silicone.

Not Summer here yet but the ice on our lake is 90% gone!  Should be clear tomorrow.

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1 hour ago, Gavin17 said:

Do you think that type of socket is waterproof enough to be on the transom of a ski boat?  Is it summer yet?

No. I also think it will collect and hold water if the trans has any rack to it..  

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