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Prop cage rollers


triscadek

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I had the same problem, fixed it by adding .5" spacers between the axles and springs. Lifted the trailer enough to clear the driveway. I've also installed both rubber and steel wheels on the back of other trailers, the problem with those is they still made marks on the driveway.

Or, if it's time for new tires on the trailer, you could get some taller one's.

Taller tires along with a hitch with more drop in it to use strictly for backing the boat in might give you enough clearance?

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I had the same problem, fixed it by adding .5" spacers between the axles and springs. Lifted the trailer enough to clear the driveway. I've also installed both rubber and steel wheels on the back of other trailers, the problem with those is they still made marks on the driveway because they weren't castors. They held the wheels straight ahead and the wheel still skidded because the trailer was turning as I was going into or out of the driveway.

On a different trailer, the prop guard was bolted on, and I was able reposition it higher.

Or, if it's time for new tires on the trailer, you could get some taller one's.

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I just put new tires on last July. The rear axles tires are very close to the fender as is. I'd like to put bigger wheels on it but I'm afraid they wouldn't clear. The spacers might be a good idea along with rollers.

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I had these put on my trailer during the build process, it sits lower and I have an incline on my driveway, they work great. I believe they are 3-3 1/2" wheels.

20150415_065403_zpsiek6wa1n.jpg

Edited by Fman
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On our old boat we added a 2" lift via blocks on the axles. On the new boat we added prop guard rollers. DHM Trailers has a kit you can buy. We had someone local weld them on. We've replaced the wheels themselves once, about 4 years in, but the brackets are holding up great. On my parents driveway there is a stretch of about 12' where all 4 tires are off the ground and all the weight is on the rear rollers. It's a sight to see!

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Going on 8 years with no issues of bending yet.

I will say though, the people who welded the brackets on did it too low. They said if there is ever an issue they would fix it but there hasn't been yet so we haven't bothered. If the brackets were higher it wouldn't be so drastic. But their driveway is also crazy steep. They had to get an exception when they built the house 28 years ago. Now days they'd never let you build that steep around here.

Edited by jetskipro550
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I just feel for your reverse gear in your truck. Many times reverse is the weakest gear in the transmission ;)

Good thing I know a guy... :)

4 Low is key. It's not necessary with my truck but it sure does make it easier. Funny thing, my parents new Tahoe doesn't have 4 low like their old one so when it came time to store the boat in their garage for the winter they couldn't get it up the driveway. Sure made me feel good to be able to help out...really after seeing Tundra pulling the space shuttle and my 20k + cargo trailer adventure I can do anything with my truck :innocent:

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I just feel for your reverse gear in your truck. Many times reverse is the weakest gear in the transmission ;)

Yea, I have a neighbor who bought a VLX a few years ago. His cul-de-sac is an up hill, then his driveway is an up hill too. First time he brings the boat home with his wifes Sequoia, he has a problem turning the truck & boat in the cul-de-sac, then backing into the driveway. So he drives down to the bottom of the hill & backs all the way up the hill in reverse. He just put the hammer down & pushed it no matter what. He had used a 4 flat adapter for his trailer lights though so the trailer brakes were engaged the whole time. By the end of it, he'd grenaded the transmission. Trailer brakes were working but not well enough that it stopped the tires from rolling. Later I explained to him that he needed a 5 flat adapter. And showed him how to stick a nickle in the surge brakes mechanism to disengage the trailer brakes :Doh:

  • Like 3
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+1 for 4 low/1st gear backing or pulling boat out of lake, great way to reduce transmission wear with gear reduction. I also use 4 low backing into my garage, it's not a crazy steep driveway but definitely some incline.

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I don't know about newer trucks, but older ones, when you put it in 4-low, it locked the center differential. This was made for off-road/poor traction conditions only since it caused tires to skid while turning (the front and rear tires are traveling different distances while turning). Kits were sold to override this. Newer trucks might not have this problem.

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Part time 4wd systems don't have differentials in the case, only systems with a full time 4wd setting.

I'm having a hard time believing that a modern pickup has trouble backing 7-8k up without being in low range.

Edited by oldjeep
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I'm having a hard time believing that a modern pickup has trouble backing 7-8k up without being in low range.

You might if you don't disengage the trailer brakes:

Yea, I have a neighbor who bought a VLX a few years ago. His cul-de-sac is an up hill, then his driveway is an up hill too. First time he brings the boat home with his wifes Sequoia, he has a problem turning the truck & boat in the cul-de-sac, then backing into the driveway. So he drives down to the bottom of the hill & backs all the way up the hill in reverse. He just put the hammer down & pushed it no matter what. He had used a 4 flat adapter for his trailer lights though so the trailer brakes were engaged the whole time. By the end of it, he'd grenaded the transmission. Trailer brakes were working but not well enough that it stopped the tires from rolling. Later I explained to him that he needed a 5 flat adapter. And showed him how to stick a nickle in the surge brakes mechanism to disengage the trailer brakes :Doh:

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I just love how you guys take things. I was just trying make little beads of sweat pop out on JSPs bald head.

But carry on fun discussion :)

And instead, the beads of sweat popped out all over the internet.

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