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Which amp to power Rev10s


triscadek

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Somebody added the KS.600 to the list a couple replies down. I think I'm going to go with the SD-2 and four Rev-10s. A fellow member PM'd me that he could offer me a package deal and he did at a very fair price. Should place the order on Friday.

I figure keeping it all Wetsounds will be one of the better quality options.

Better watch out on that.

Where are you located?

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Well, for one a dealer soliciting you via this site IS a violation of the terms of use.

"You are not allowed to make first contact with members here. If you are contacted by another member, take it off of the site."
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I have talked with the Tulsa wetsound dealer at the boat show last year. He seemed to know his stuff and the boat he had there was done very well. Might go talk to them. I want to say it was boomers?

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Yes, I have been in there and actually good friends with a girl that works there. I'd love to go drop the boat off with them and let them do it all. He quoted me like $28-2900 just for the speakers in the package. I'd need to re-finance the boat to get the amp, accessories and pay for install haha!. I was in there a week ago, they had a few in there. They do good work but are a bit pricey in my opinion. I understand they have overhead, but still.

Edited by triscadek
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That is every bit of full retail. But you get the ease of warranty or other issues like that being right there close to the dealer.

My buddy owns a audio shop here and I know two ws dealers here. So if ya want to pm me and see if I can help ya find a deal here in okc.

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Is it common to add an RCA inline volume control for the tower speakers? What I have done with the ones that are up there now in the past was just keep going down and adjusting the gain on the tower amp to keep the towers up loud so the boarder can hear but the people in the boat not be blasted out. When I finally got it dialed in, the towers would come up with the volume but be X amount louder than the cabin speakers. Then if I wanted to turn the towers off, I would flip off one of the Aux switches (provided by Malibu on the dash) that is wired to the power remote wire for the tower amp.

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I can't see too much going wrong. I'm not particularly easy with dropping another $1,000 just to not have to wait a few days for the mail man.

The why not talk with Odin at Earmark Marine as suggested earlier. Authorized internet dealer so no conflicts and they support you during and after the install. The also support the crew.

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Is it common to add an RCA inline volume control for the tower speakers? What I have done with the ones that are up there now in the past was just keep going down and adjusting the gain on the tower amp to keep the towers up loud so the boarder can hear but the people in the boat not be blasted out. When I finally got it dialed in, the towers would come up with the volume but be X amount louder than the cabin speakers. Then if I wanted to turn the towers off, I would flip off one of the Aux switches (provided by Malibu on the dash) that is wired to the power remote wire for the tower amp.

Then you want a line level controller inline on the in-boat amp. Better yet, invest in a simple dual zone controller like the Kicker ZXM-RLC or step up to the Wet Sounds WS-420.

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The why not talk with Odin at Earmark Marine as suggested earlier. Authorized internet dealer so no conflicts and they support you during and after the install. The also support the crew.

I will give them a call.

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Then you want a line level controller inline on the in-boat amp. Better yet, invest in a simple dual zone controller like the Kicker ZXM-RLC or step up to the Wet Sounds WS-420.

By no means trying to argue... Wouldn't an inline volume knob solely on the cabin amp do the same? The head unit will control the cabin speakers and the towers, then for more tower, just turn down the inline in which has effect in lowering only the cabin?

I'm just looking at cleaner install as far as less RCAs. I already have about 50 under there it seems. ?

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Don't forget about the remote volume control port on the Wetsounds SD2 amplifier. A very useful feature, especially if used in conjunction with an in-boat amplifier having the same. It's not full 'system' zone control as applied to the tower amplifier only but it will give you full up/down control of the tower speakers and without running additional to and from transverse RCAs.

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By no means trying to argue... Wouldn't an inline volume knob solely on the cabin amp do the same? The head unit will control the cabin speakers and the towers, then for more tower, just turn down the inline in which has effect in lowering only the cabin?

I'm just looking at cleaner install as far as less RCAs. I already have about 50 under there it seems.

99 of 100 boat owners find the in-boat volume too loud while they are wanting to play the tower speakers loud for the rider in tow. Putting the level control in line of the in-boat amp, allows for those speaker to be dialed back while the towers are left to be cranked. @ would be required to allow for volume control of both zones, this is where an actual zone controller comes into play.

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By no means trying to argue... Wouldn't an inline volume knob solely on the cabin amp do the same? The head unit will control the cabin speakers and the towers, then for more tower, just turn down the inline in which has effect in lowering only the cabin?

I'm just looking at cleaner install as far as less RCAs. I already have about 50 under there it seems.

With select Wetsounds amplifiers, several series of JL Audio amplifiers, and with the Kicker or JL Audio zone controls, you are not extending RCA cables. These type controls utilize command data only and do not pass the actual audio signal back and forth from the dash side controller. So very clean wiring. And a very inexpensive way to obtain zone controls.

Edited by David
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Don't forget about the remote volume control port on the Wetsounds SD2 amplifier. A very useful feature, especially if used in conjunction with an in-boat amplifier having the same. It's not full 'system' zone control as applied to the tower amplifier only but it will give you full up/down control of the tower speakers and without running additional to and from transverse RCAs.

Awesome. There was one that came with the cheap boss 1000w marine amp that is currently hooked up to the tower speakers now but when I plugged it in it did nothing for either amp. (I have two of the same 1000s, one for cabin and one for tower). I am thinking that it only worked for bass boost or something. I have one on the Fosgate amp for my subs and it works.

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Awesome. There was one that came with the cheap boss 1000w marine amp that is currently hooked up to the tower speakers now but when I plugged it in it did nothing for either amp. (I have two of the same 1000s, one for cabin and one for tower). I am thinking that it only worked for bass boost or something. I have one on the Fosgate amp for my subs and it works.

those boss ones likely work only when the amp is in lo-pass mode

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While I have your attention, I have 4 pair (8) of the Polk audio 6.5"s (Db651??) in the cabin, one pair in the bow, hidden up by the docking lights (can hardly be heard but that's where the others were mounted), one pair on the dash facing up toward the windshield and two more pair back by the floor under the seats. One pair is in factory location by the cigarette lighter plug facing toward the bow, the other pair, one on port, one on starboard and they face each other.

I am currently powering them (all 8) with that boss 1000.4 marine amp, it sounds "okay" but I'm sure there is room for improvement and still keeping those speakers I just bought last year. I'd like to get more from the two bow speakers as well. Seems like all the sound comes from behind the windshield, 6 speakers vs two yes but surely I can get some more from the two in the bow?

The bow are hooked to front left, windshield front right, and the rears are similar but on the "rear" channels of the amp. If I turn up the front, then the driver gets blasted by the windshield speakers....

EDIT:: even when someone sits in the bow the rear over powers the front as in you cannot hear the two by the docking lights.

Edited by triscadek
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If you disconnected the dash mounted speakers, I bet you will hear that the bow pair are contributing more then you think. Speakers bouncing of the glass can be so dominate. The ideal solution is to put the dash pair and bow pair of their own amp chnls. This will allow you to tune the bow pair to their max output and dial back the dash pair so they are more balanced with rest of the main cabin speakers.

I would also suggest returning the speakers to a stereo configuration.

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How do you mean return to a stereo config?

I have 8 speakers and a 4 channel amp. I'm open to ideas.

EDIT: the Boss 1000 im sure only puts out 500, right? So should I run both the 1000s? One for the front 4 and one for the rear 4?

Id have to add the wetsounds tower amp as amp number 4 ?

Edited by triscadek
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Right now, you have the right and left dash speaker wired to a right chnl and the right and left bow speakers wired to a left chnl. Sounds like the 2 pair on the main cabin might be the same. Your in-boats are not running in stereo.

A 6 chnl to replace the 4 chnl or add a 2 chnl. Or, use the now unneeded 2nd boss 4 chnl

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