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Which amp to power Rev10s


triscadek

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Okay. Those harnesses are easier and cleaner for the exposed from the tower into the fiberglass is why I asked. Plus plenty of insulation.

Edited by triscadek
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So I have 2 of these amps, 1 going up the tower (will be removing) and 1 powering 4 pair of Polk Audio db651... 4 up front and 4 in the back. What's my best option for wiring? I believe I'm running it as a 4 channel but just doing 2 speakers per channel.

http://www.bossaudio.com/marine/marine-audio-sound-system-4-channel-amplifier-boss-audio-mr1000/

Edited by triscadek
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Two Wetsounds HT4s bridged to four Rev10s? Okay. A little thin. Maybe a better match with four Rev8s.

For two pair of Rev10s you could run...

Two bridged Wetsounds HT4s or HTX4s, or,

Two bridged JL Audio XD400/4, or,

One bridged JL Audio XD800/8, or,

Two bridged Wetsounds Syn4, or,

One Wetsounds SD2, or,

Two JL Audio HD750/1.

If you can get an honest 200+ watts at any realistic voltage supply to each Rev10 then it's impressive.

The problem is that there is a big disparity between the 14.4 volt rated power @ 1 kHz and what you really get with a supply in the mid 12 volt range and across a wider bandwidth. So under more realistic conditions the above amplifier options give you from 200 watts per each speaker at entry to 400 watts per speaker for the maximum option.

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Two Wetsounds HT4s bridged to four Rev10s? Okay. A little thin. Maybe a better match with four Rev8s.

For two pair of Rev10s you could run...

Two bridged Wetsounds HT4s or HTX4s, or,

Two bridged JL Audio XD400/4, or,

One bridged JL Audio XD800/8, or,

Two bridged Wetsounds Syn4, or,

One Wetsounds SD2, or,

Two JL Audio HD750/1.

If you can get an honest 200+ watts at any realistic voltage supply to each Rev10 then it's impressive.

The problem is that there is a big disparity between the 14.4 volt rated power @ 1 kHz and what you really get with a supply in the mid 12 volt range and across a wider bandwidth. So under more realistic conditions the above amplifier options give you from 200 watts per each speaker at entry to 400 watts per speaker for the maximum option.

One arc audio ks600.2 should also be on that list.

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Two Wetsounds HT4s bridged to four Rev10s? Okay. A little thin. Maybe a better match with four Rev8s.

For two pair of Rev10s you could run...

Two bridged Wetsounds HT4s or HTX4s, or,

Two bridged JL Audio XD400/4, or,

One bridged JL Audio XD800/8, or,

Two bridged Wetsounds Syn4, or,

One Wetsounds SD2, or,

Two JL Audio HD750/1.

If you can get an honest 200+ watts at any realistic voltage supply to each Rev10 then it's impressive.

The problem is that there is a big disparity between the 14.4 volt rated power @ 1 kHz and what you really get with a supply in the mid 12 volt range and across a wider bandwidth. So under more realistic conditions the above amplifier options give you from 200 watts per each speaker at entry to 400 watts per speaker for the maximum option.

Trying to stick with one amp and looked up the JL Audio XD800... wouldnt that leave me a bit short? I need 1200rms, right?

...and I looked up the Arc Audio as mentioned above, 600.2 would send 150 to each speaker or 300?

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Trying to stick with one amp and looked up the JL Audio XD800... wouldnt that leave me a bit short? I need 1200rms, right?

...and I looked up the Arc Audio as mentioned above, 600.2 would send 150 to each speaker or 300?

ks600.2 does 1200w (600 per channel) at 2 ohm. If you run two cans per channel that is 2ohm impedence, so 600w/2cans = 300 per can.

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But dont I need 4ohm for the Revs?

no you just need watts. 4ohms is the Revs native impedance. So that's how you can tell when looking at an amp how much power you'll get out of the amp to the speaker. Amps are rated by their output at a given impedance. Take that KS600.2 for instance. It does 400w per channel at 4ohms and 600 at 2 ohms. So if you ran only one Rev10 per channel, each would get 400w, but when you run two in parallel per channel, effectively halving the impedance from 4ohms to 2ohms, you get 300w per can.

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no you just need watts. 4ohms is the Revs native impedance. So that's how you can tell when looking at an amp how much power you'll get out of the amp to the speaker. Amps are rated by their output at a given impedance. Take that KS600.2 for instance. It does 400w per channel at 4ohms and 600 at 2 ohms. So if you ran only one Rev10 per channel, each would get 400w, but when you run two in parallel per channel, effectively halving the impedance from 4ohms to 2ohms, you get 300w per can.

Im trying to understand ohms and its just not quite working lol

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Voltage is potential electrical power, like the size of the reservoir.

Current/amperage is the rate at which voltage flows, like over a given time.

Wattage is the amount of work, voltage X current.

Impedance (in 'ohms') is essentially the same as resistance. Actually resistance pertains to DC where as impedance pertains to AC and is frequency dependent.

So, with a high impedance there is a higher resistance to the flow of power. With a lower impedance there is lower resistance. Like a larger diameter garden hose allows more water through = low resistance.

So if the amplifier terminates into a lower impedance (resistance) it can deliver more wattage.

That is why an amplifier typically gives different power ratings into different load impedances.

Two garden hoses offer half the resistance. Twice as much water flows during the same time frame.

'Ohms' is a measurement of that resistance/impedance.

Just keep in mind that the above is the most simple example. With amplifiers the current is limited and at a point the power hits a brick wall. So you just can't keep lowering the termination impedance and expect to get more and more power. Eventually too low of an impedance behaves like a direct short and the amplifier becomes unstable, gets really hot, breaks, etc. There is an ideal impedance window for each amplifier to terminate into.

Edited by David
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About power amplifier specs. You can't get too caught up in the numbers. Why? They don't tell the whole story.

CEA2006 ratings are based on a supply voltage of 14.4 volts @ 1 kHz at 1% distortion.

But you can't get 14.4 volts in a boat. More like 13.5 volts when running and 12.5 volts at rest BEFORE the draw drops that voltage farther. So an amplifier will typically lose 25% of it's 14.4V rated power with a 12.5 volt supply.

It may lose another 15% across the entire bandwidth versus a single mid band and easy to produce frequency.

Since the amplifier power is rated at 1 kHz only so is the 1% distortion. That gives absolutely zero indication as to how much distortion is at 50 Hz or 10 kHz.

So in the case of the JL Audio XD800/8 bridged into four channels it will deliver it's 14.4V rating over a wide bandwidth even at a 12.5 volt supply. And it HAS to based on the measured output voltages they give you for tuning the amplifier, knowing what the real voltage will be as this procedure is done....in your boat. It also maintains 98% of its rated bandwidth across the entire audio spectrum. And it rates power at a lower distortion level than others. So in this case the JL Audio amplifier may offer the same true power as another amplifier rated at 1200 watts.

It's easy to get duped when totally buying amplifier ratings as authentic. No one enforces power rating compliance. That's why you at least take into consideration the recommendations made by pros or consumers that have experienced many, many different amplifiers and different applications. They know what sounds good. But you have to be skeptical of those who say, "this is what I own so it's the best, or you shouldn't look at anything else." They usually have a bad case of owners goggles.

Btw, The Arc Audio KS600.2 should also be included on the list of good options.

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Voltage is potential electrical power, like the size of the reservoir.

Current/amperage is the rate at which voltage flows, like over a given time.

Wattage is the amount of work, voltage X current.

Impedance (in 'ohms') is essentially the same as resistance. Actually resistance pertains to DC where as impedance pertains to AC and is frequency dependent.

So, with a high impedance there is a higher resistance to the flow of power. With a lower impedance there is lower resistance. Like a larger diameter garden hose allows more water through = low resistance.

So if the amplifier terminates into a lower impedance (resistance) it can deliver more wattage.

That is why an amplifier typically gives different power ratings into different load impedances.

Two garden hoses offer half the resistance. Twice as much water flows during the same time frame.

'Ohms' is a measurement of that resistance/impedance.

Just keep in mind that the above is the most simple example. With amplifiers the current is limited and at a point the power hits a brick wall. So you just can't keep lowering the termination impedance and expect to get more and more power. Eventually too low of an impedance behaves like a direct short and the amplifier becomes unstable, gets really hot, breaks, etc. There is an ideal impedance window for each amplifier to terminate into.

What do you mean by "you can't keep lowering the termination impedance?

Which is best way to wire 4 speakers for the least resistance? Run 4+ and 4- or 2+ and 2- then disperse to 4+/4- at the tower?

Another question, run them (if we did 2wires) on the same channel (let's say a 2 channel) or do each + to a + and each - to a -?

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Somebody added the KS.600 to the list a couple replies down. I think I'm going to go with the SD-2 and four Rev-10s.

Edited by triscadek
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" you can't keep lowering the termination impedance?"

A 4-ohm load would be optimum for efficiency, headroom and sound quality. But a little less continuous power.

A 2-ohm load isn't as perfect in some respects (although it is totally okay) but you will often get a 50% premium in output power. And you need that extra power. Sometimes you just have to follow the cost-effectiveness of getting more power via a 2-ohm load.

So one might reason that if a 2-ohm load yields more power than a 4-ohm load, why not create scenarios that would provide a 1-ohm termination. Because 2-ohm stereo and 4-ohm bridged is the lowest final impedance you should run. You won't get more power running a lower termination and you will have real stability issues.

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Somebody added the KS.600 to the list a couple replies down. I think I'm going to go with the SD-2 and four Rev-10s. A fellow member PM'd me that he could offer me a package deal and he did at a very fair price. Should place the order on Friday.

I figure keeping it all Wetsounds will be one of the better quality options.

Just be sure that this dealer who's making you a package deal is listed on the Wetsounds authorized on-line dealer page. If he is a Wetsounds dealer but not authorized as 'on-line' and would be shipping product out of his immediate territory, he would be doing so against the wishes of Wetsounds and in violation of that agreement. Warranty and service could become a hassle. All this is clearly stated on the Wetsounds page.

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