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Rear Locker Gas Strut Coming Loose


Wilbur

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The ball joint connecting the gas struts on my rear lockers are coming loose and have lots of play. I tried pulling the carpeted piece below it to get behind it and tighten it up, but the cross bar that it's attached to is enclosed.

It's a 15' A22 with only 70 hrs on it.

Anyone else have this problem or know how to fix it?

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Don't know for certain but my guess would be is there is a nut that tightens down on the backside of that post

That was my guess too, but it's enclosed and you can't get to the nut...

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Can you remove the carpet panel to gain access to backside of the ball joint? Hopefully they used a nylock locking nut, if not I would definitely replace it with one to avoid it coming loose again.

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Can you remove the carpet panel to gain access to backside of the ball joint? Hopefully they used a nylock locking nut, if not I would definitely replace it with one to avoid it coming loose again.

I did remove the carpet panel, but you can't get to the backside of it because it is an enclosed square tube.

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I did remove the carpet panel, but you can't get to the backside of it because it is an enclosed square tube.

Seems odd, you would think the hole would be threaded or there would be some type of access hole in the square tube.

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can you spin the ball clock-wise by hand while pulling out causing the nut to snug up enough to put a wrench on the hex?

I did try that, but no luck

How close is it to the open end of the tube, can you stick something down there to wedge against the backside? I have to assume there is a nut of some kind back there.

It is towards the center of the boat, just outside of the engine dividers. Assuming that the end is open and I could stick something long enough in there to stop the nut from spinning, I would have to pull out the entire cross beam, which looks like I would also have to pull out the entire rear seat.

It sounds like my best bet is to let the dealer handle it under warranty

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On my 2012 VLX, it is a drilled and tapped hole in the aluminum cross member, no nut behind it. You can move it to another spot close buy and drill and tap a new hole. I lowered 1 of mine so my hatch cover would not raise as high because it would hit my garage ceiling when open.

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On my 2012 VLX, it is a drilled and tapped hole in the aluminum cross member, no nut behind it. You can move it to another spot close buy and drill and tap a new hole. I lowered 1 of mine so my hatch cover would not raise as high because it would hit my garage ceiling when open.

I can't pull, or screw, these out, so they definitely don't appear to be threaded into the cross bar. I could drill and tap another hole if I could get these ones out, but that's not something I feel like I should, or have to, be doing when the boat only has 70 hrs on it and and still under warranty.

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Same problem. On mine the ball mount is threaded into the tube though. I frequently tighten it. Will apply locking thread compound next year. You might have a retention clip on the back of yours. Its a piss poor system....like several other things I've noticed on my Axis.

Dealer or thread and tap to a larger size like you thought of doing.

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Having same problem here. Took to dealer and they could not fix...I have a few other issues, main one is a rattle under driver area they can't find. The dealer is taking the boat to Loudon TN factory to fix the list of issues.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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